Waves and Beaches
Waves and Beaches

Author: Kim McCoy

Publisher: Patagonia

Published: 2021-03-16

Total Pages: 400

ISBN-13: 9781938340956

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The Bestselling Classic Updated for Surfers, Sailors, Oceanographers, Climate Activists, and Those Who Love the Sea First published in 1963 and updated in 1979, this classic was an essential handbook for anyone who studies, surfs, protects, or is fascinated by the ocean. The original author, Willard Bascom, was a master of the subject and included a wealth of information, based on theory and statistics, but also anecdotal observation and personal experience. It brought to the general public understanding of the awesome and complex power of the waves. This revision from Kim McCoy adds recent facts and anecdotes to update the book's relevance in the time of climate change. One of the most significant effects of global warming will be sea-level rise. What will this mean to waves and beaches, and what effects are we already seeing? New text and photos cover events such as the Indian Ocean tsunami of 2004, Hurricane Katrina flooding of 2005, and the 2011 earthquake and resulting devastation in Fukishima. As well as students, surfers, and the general public, this updated edition of a beloved classic is an essential handbook for climate scientists and ocean activists, providing clear explanations and detailed resources for the constant battle to preserve the shore.

Handbook of Ocean Wave Energy
Handbook of Ocean Wave Energy

Author: Arthur Pecher

Publisher: Springer

Published: 2016-12-07

Total Pages: 305

ISBN-13: 331939889X

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This book is open access under a CC BY-NC 2.5 license. This book offers a concise, practice-oriented reference-guide to the field of ocean wave energy. The ten chapters highlight the key rules of thumb, address all the main technical engineering aspects and describe in detail all the key aspects to be considered in the techno-economic assessment of wave energy converters. Written in an easy-to-understand style, the book answers questions relevant to readers of different backgrounds, from developers, private and public investors, to students and researchers. It is thereby a valuable resource for both newcomers and experienced practitioners in the wave energy sector.

Ocean Waves and Oscillating Systems
Ocean Waves and Oscillating Systems

Author: Johannes Falnes

Publisher: Cambridge University Press

Published: 2020-05-28

Total Pages: 319

ISBN-13: 1108481663

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Understand the absorption of energy from ocean waves by means of oscillating systems with this useful new edition. Essential for engineers, researchers, and graduate students, and an indispensable tool for those who work in this field.

The Interaction of Ocean Waves and Wind
The Interaction of Ocean Waves and Wind

Author: Peter Janssen

Publisher: Cambridge University Press

Published: 2004-10-28

Total Pages: 310

ISBN-13: 0521465400

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This book was published in 2004. The Interaction of Ocean Waves and Wind describes in detail the two-way interaction between wind and ocean waves and shows how ocean waves affect weather forecasting on timescales of 5 to 90 days. Winds generate ocean waves, but at the same time airflow is modified due to the loss of energy and momentum to the waves; thus, momentum loss from the atmosphere to the ocean depends on the state of the waves. This volume discusses ocean wave evolution according to the energy balance equation. An extensive overview of nonlinear transfer is given, and as a by-product the role of four-wave interactions in the generation of extreme events, such as freak waves, is discussed. Effects on ocean circulation are described. Coupled ocean-wave, atmosphere modelling gives improved weather and wave forecasts. This volume will interest ocean wave modellers, physicists and applied mathematicians, and engineers interested in shipping and coastal protection.

Clark Little
Clark Little

Author: Clark Little

Publisher: Ten Speed Press

Published: 2022-04-05

Total Pages: 241

ISBN-13: 1984859781

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Instagram sensation Clark Little shares his most remarkable photographs from inside the breaking wave, with a foreword by world surfing champion Kelly Slater. “One of the world’s most amazing water photographers . . . Now we get to experience up-close these moments of bliss.”—Jack Johnson, musician and environmentalist Surfer and photographer Clark Little creates deceptively peaceful pictures of waves by placing himself under the deadly lip as it is about to hit the sand. "Clark's view" is a rare and dangerous perspective of waves from the inside out. Thanks to his uncanny ability to get the perfect shot--and live to share it--Little has garnered a devout audience, been the subject of award-winning documentaries, and become one of the world's most recognizable wave photographers. Clark Little: The Art of Waves compiles over 150 of his images, including crystalline breaking waves, the diverse marine life of Hawaii, and mind-blowing aerial photography. This collection features his most beloved pictures, as well as work that has never been published in book form, with Little's stories and insights throughout. Journalist Jamie Brisick contributes essays on how Clark gets the shot, how waves are created, swimming with sharks, and more. With a foreword by eleven-time world surfing champion Kelly Slater and an afterword by the author on his photographic practice and technique, Clark Little: The Art of Waves offers a rare view of the wave for us to enjoy from the safety of land.

Applied Underwater Acoustics
Applied Underwater Acoustics

Author: Thomas Neighbors

Publisher: Elsevier

Published: 2017-01-19

Total Pages: 982

ISBN-13: 0128112476

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Applied Underwater Acoustics meets the needs of scientists and engineers working in underwater acoustics and graduate students solving problems in, and preparing theses on, topics in underwater acoustics. The book is structured to provide the basis for rapidly assimilating the essential underwater acoustic knowledge base for practical application to daily research and analysis. Each chapter of the book is self-supporting and focuses on a single topic and its relation to underwater acoustics. The chapters start with a brief description of the topic's physical background, necessary definitions, and a short description of the applications, along with a roadmap to the chapter. The subtopics covered within individual subchapters include most frequently used equations that describe the topic. Equations are not derived, rather, assumptions behind equations and limitations on the applications of each equation are emphasized. Figures, tables, and illustrations related to the sub-topic are presented in an easy-to-use manner, and examples on the use of the equations, including appropriate figures and tables are also included. - Provides a complete and up-to-date treatment of all major subjects of underwater acoustics - Presents chapters written by recognized experts in their individual field - Covers the fundamental knowledge scientists and engineers need to solve problems in underwater acoustics - Illuminates, in shorter sub-chapters, the modern applications of underwater acoustics that are described in worked examples - Demands no prior knowledge of underwater acoustics, and the physical principles and mathematics are designed to be readily understood by scientists, engineers, and graduate students of underwater acoustics - Includes a comprehensive list of literature references for each chapter

Waves in Oceanic and Coastal Waters
Waves in Oceanic and Coastal Waters

Author: Leo H. Holthuijsen

Publisher: Cambridge University Press

Published: 2010-02-04

Total Pages: 9

ISBN-13: 1139462520

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Waves in Oceanic and Coastal Waters describes the observation, analysis and prediction of wind-generated waves in the open ocean, in shelf seas, and in coastal regions with islands, channels, tidal flats and inlets, estuaries, fjords and lagoons. Most of this richly illustrated book is devoted to the physical aspects of waves. After introducing observation techniques for waves, both at sea and from space, the book defines the parameters that characterise waves. Using basic statistical and physical concepts, the author discusses the prediction of waves in oceanic and coastal waters, first in terms of generalised observations, and then in terms of the more theoretical framework of the spectral energy balance. He gives the results of established theories and also the direction in which research is developing. The book ends with a description of SWAN (Simulating Waves Nearshore), the preferred computer model of the engineering community for predicting waves in coastal waters.

Nonlinear Ocean Dynamics
Nonlinear Ocean Dynamics

Author: Maged Marghany

Publisher: Elsevier

Published: 2021-02-09

Total Pages: 464

ISBN-13: 0128209259

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Nonlinear Ocean Dynamics: Synthetic Aperture Radar delivers the critical tools needed to understand the latest technology surrounding the radar imaging of nonlinear waves, particularly microwave radar, as a main source to understand, analyze and apply concepts in the field of ocean dynamic surface. Filling the gap between modern physics quantum theory and applications of radar imaging of ocean dynamic surface, this reference is packed with technical details associated with the potentiality of synthetic aperture radar (SAR). The book also includes key methods needed to extract the value-added information necessary, such as wave spectra energy, current pattern velocity, internal waves, and more. This book also reveals novel speculation of a shallow coastal front: named as Quantized Marghany's Front. Rounding out with practical simulations of 4-D wave-current interaction patterns using using radar images, the book brings an effective new source of technology and applications for today's coastal scientists and engineers. - Solves specific problems surrounding the nonlinearity of ocean surface dynamics in synthetic aperture radar data - Helps develop new algorithms for retrieving ocean wave spectra and ocean current movements from synthetic aperture radar - Includes over 100 equations that illustrate how to follow examples in the book

Waves, Tides, and Shallow-water Processes
Waves, Tides, and Shallow-water Processes

Author: Open University. Oceanography Course Team

Publisher: Pergamon

Published: 1989

Total Pages: 196

ISBN-13:

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This is the fourth Volume of the six Volume Open University set. Each Volume is used by students as a relevant part of the Open University course in the UK, but designed so that it can equally be used as an individual text book. This Volume describes waves, their measurement and characteristics, their behaviour in shallow water and unusual waves. It also considers mainly theoretical aspects of sediment movement and deposition of currents, wave estuaries, and the interaction of waves, tides and river flow in deltas. Concludes with a look at shelf-sea processes and their mineral resources. Each Volume in this set is well laid out and copiously illustrated with full colour photographs, graphs and graphics. Questions to help develop arguments and/or understanding can be found in the text and at the end of each chapter, with worked answers provided at the back of each Volume. Each chapter also concludes with a summary to help consolidate understanding before the next chapter is begun.

Breaking and Dissipation of Ocean Surface Waves
Breaking and Dissipation of Ocean Surface Waves

Author: Alexander Babanin

Publisher: Cambridge University Press

Published: 2011-05-19

Total Pages: 479

ISBN-13: 1139502727

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Wave breaking represents one of the most interesting and challenging problems for fluid mechanics and physical oceanography. Over the last fifteen years our understanding has undergone a dramatic leap forward, and wave breaking has emerged as a process whose physics is clarified and quantified. Ocean wave breaking plays the primary role in the air-sea exchange of momentum, mass and heat, and it is of significant importance for ocean remote sensing, coastal and ocean engineering, navigation and other practical applications. This book outlines the state of the art in our understanding of wave breaking and presents the main outstanding problems. It is a valuable resource for anyone interested in this topic, including researchers, modellers, forecasters, engineers and graduate students in physical oceanography, meteorology and ocean engineering.