When, how and why do clothes become fashion? Fashion is more than mere clothing. It is a moment of invention, a distillation of desire, a reflection of a zeitgeist. It is also a business relying on an intricate network of manufacture, marketing and retail. Fashion is both medium and message but it does not explain itself. It requires language and images for its global mediation. It develops from the prescience of the designer and is dependent on acceptance by observers and wearers alike. When Clothes Become Fashion explores the structures and strategies which underlie fashion innovation, how fashion is perceived and the point at which clothing is accepted or rejected as fashion. The book provides a clear theoretical framework for understanding the world of fashion - its aesthetic premises, plurality of styles, performative impulses, social qualities and economic conditions.
Études is a fresh and a comprehensive look at a hot fashion-and-art at collective, documenting its evolution into an arbiter of contemporary cool. Based in Paris and Brooklyn, Etudes is one of most innovative brands in fashion and street wear today. With a look dominated by bold graphics and a sleek, relaxed silhouette intended for both men and women, the brand's unique, transatlantic style has drawn a young, sophisticated following. Established in 2012 by Aurélien Arbet and Jérémie Egry, Études' star rose rapidly, making it on the official calendar of Paris Fashion Week less that two years after its founding. Occupying a role more in keeping with insurgent Japanese brands from Harajuku, Études is a fashion label, a creative agency and publishing house with a focus on art & photography. With a goal of becoming a total lifestyle label, the brand's approach is demanding, coherent, consistent and resolutely contemporary. This book presents the wide array of fashion, art, and style that Études has facilitated since its founding. Filled with over 200 photographs and illustrations documenting work and collaborations with highly applauded artists and brands including Kara Walker, Ari Marcopoulus, RETROSUPERFUTURE, Devonte Hynes, Matthew Chambers, Mark Gonzales as well as a selection of interviews and essays commissioned specially for this book, Études is an engaging volume that highlights an ethic of collaboration that is one of the most fashion-forward of any contemporary fashion and street wear labels.
Fashion Design, Referenced is a comprehensive guide through the art and industry of fashion design, richly illustrated with over 1,000 photographs and drawings. Within the framework of four central categories, Fashion Design, Referenced examines the many interwoven elements that form the tapestry of fashion. “Fundamentals” provides an overview of the essential structure of the fashion profession (its organization, specializations, and centers) and looks at shifts in style over time and in ever-faster cycles going forward. “Principles” introduces the steps in creating a collection, from design to production, and explores directions suggested by sustainability and technology. “Dissemination” charts the many avenues by which fashion reaches its audience, whether on the catwalk or in the store, in print or online, in the museum or on the street. “Practice” gathers and appraises the work of the most influential and innovative fashion designers of the twentieth and twenty-first centuries. From its first question—What is fashion design?—to its last—What does the future hold?—Fashion Design, Referenced chronicles the scope of ideas, inspirations, and expressions that define fashion culture. Visit the Fashion Design, Referenced Facebook page and become a fan at http://www.facebook.com/FashionDesignReferenced!
Learn how fashion developed in Britain from the early 1970s, when designer fashion scarcely existed, to the present day, when London ranks alongside Paris, New York and Milan as a global fashion capital.
“An hour, once it lodges in the queer element of the human spirit, may be stretched to fifty or a hundred times its clock length; on the other hand, an hour may be accurately represented on the timepiece of the mind by one second.” —Virginia Woolf, Orlando: A Biography, 1928 About Time: Fashion and Duration traces the evolution of fashion, from 1870 to the present, through a linear timeline of iconic garments, each paired with an alternate design that jumps forward or backward in time. These unexpected pairings, which relate to one another through shape, motif, material, pattern, technique, or decoration, create a unique and disruptive fashion chronology that conflates notions of past, present, and future. Virginia Woolf serves as “ghost narrator”: excerpts from her novels reflect on the passage of time with each subsequent plate pairing. A new short story by Michael Cunningham, winner of the Pulitzer Prize for Fiction for The Hours, recounts a day in the life of a woman over a time span of 150 years through her changing fashions. Scholar Theodore Martin analyzes theoretical responses to the nature of time, underscoring that time is not simply a sequence of historical events. And fashion photographer Nicholas Alan Cope illustrates 120 fashions with sublime black and-white photography. This stunning book reveals fashion’s paradoxical connection to linear notions of time.
Published in conjunction with an exhibition on view at the Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York, May 5-Aug. 15, 2010, and at the Brooklyn Museum, May 7-Aug. 1, 2010.
In recent years, many prominent and successful artists have claimed that their primary concern is not the artwork they produce but the artistic process itself. In this volume, Kim Grant analyzes this idea and traces its historical roots, showing how changing concepts of artistic process have played a dominant role in the development of modern and contemporary art. This astute account of the ways in which process has been understood and addressed examines canonical artists such as Monet, Cézanne, Matisse, and De Kooning, as well as philosophers and art theorists such as Henri Focillon, R. G. Collingwood, and John Dewey. Placing “process art” within a larger historical context, Grant looks at the changing relations of the artist’s labor to traditional craftsmanship and industrial production, the status of art as a commodity, the increasing importance of the body and materiality in art making, and the nature and significance of the artist’s role in modern society. In doing so, she shows how process is an intrinsic part of aesthetic theory that connects to important contemporary debates about work, craft, and labor. Comprehensive and insightful, this synthetic study of process in modern and contemporary art reveals how artists’ explicit engagement with the concept fits into a broader narrative of the significance of art in the industrial and postindustrial world.