Wartime Fashion

Wartime Fashion

Author: Geraldine Howell

Publisher: A&C Black

Published: 2013-07-18

Total Pages: 268

ISBN-13: 0857854291

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A comprehensive analysis of Second World War dress practice and appearance, this study places dress at the forefront of a complex series of cultural chain reactions. As lives were changed by the conditions of war, dress continued to reflect important visual narratives regarding class, gender and taste that would impact significantly on public consciousness of equality, fairness and morale. Using new archival and primary source evidence, Wartime Fashion clarifies how and why clothing was rationed, and repositions style and design during the war in relation to past expectations and ideas about clothes and fabrics. The book explores the impact of war on the dress and appearance of civilian women of all classes in the context of changing social and economic infrastructures created by the national emergency. The varied research elements combined in this book form a rounded and definitive account of the dress history of British women during the Second World War. This is essential reading for anyone with an active interest in the field, whether personal or professional.


Fashion on the Ration

Fashion on the Ration

Author: Julie Summers

Publisher: Profile Books

Published: 2015-03-05

Total Pages: 335

ISBN-13: 1782830979

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In September 1939, just three weeks after the outbreak of war, Gladys Mason wrote briefly in her diary about events in Europe: 'Hitler watched German siege of Warsaw. City in flames.' And, she continued, 'Had my wedding dress fitted. Lovely.' For Gladys Mason, and for thousands of women throughout the long years of the war, fashion was not simply a distraction, but a necessity - and one they weren't going to give up easily. In the face of bombings, conscription, rationing and ludicrous bureaucracy, they maintained a sense of elegance and style with determination and often astonishing ingenuity. From the young woman who avoided the dreaded 'forces bloomers' by making knickers from military-issue silk maps, to Vogue's indomitable editor Audrey Withers, who balanced lobbying government on behalf of her readers with driving lorries for the war effort, Julie Summers weaves together stories from ordinary lives and high society to provide a unique picture of life during the Second World War. As a nation went into uniform and women took on traditional male roles, clothing and beauty began to reflect changing social attitudes. For the first time, fashion was influenced not only by Hollywood and high society but by the demands of industrial production and the pressing need to 'make-do-and-mend'. Beautifully illustrated and full of gorgeous detail, Fashion on the Ration lifts the veil on a fascinating era in British fashion.


The Little Black Dress and Zoot Suits

The Little Black Dress and Zoot Suits

Author: Alison Behnke

Publisher: Twenty-First Century Books

Published: 2012-01-01

Total Pages: 68

ISBN-13: 0761358927

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Looks at the different modes of dress in America in the mid twentieth century, from every day clothes to high fashion.


Lee Miller

Lee Miller

Author: Robin Muir

Publisher: Farley's House and Gallery

Published: 2021-07

Total Pages: 160

ISBN-13: 9780953238989

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Lee Miller?s photography of British fashion for Vogue during World War 2 was prolific yet few are aware of the full extent of this body of her work.00Many know Lee Miller?s name in connection to her inspirational World War 2 reportage. Few are aware of the volume of her British fashion images that were published on British Vogue?s pages from 1939 to 1944. This beautiful book of her wartime fashion work addresses Lee Miller?s contribution to the fashion industry in these years and her significant service to the survival of British Vogue magazine.00?she [Lee Miller] has borne the whole weight of our studio production through the most difficult period in Brogue?s [British Vogue?s] history?. Wrote Audrey Withers, Lee Miller?s editor at British Vogue, in 194100Containing over 130 images, with the majority printed full page this book also contains accompanying text by Lee Miller?s granddaughter, Ami Bouhassane, Co-Director of the Lee Miller Archives, who provides insights into Lee Miller?s work process. In two additional essays, fashion historian Amber Butchart writes on the fashion of the period and Robin Muir, contributing editor to British Vogue, discusses Lee Miller?s work for Vogue.00Exhibition: Farleys House & Gallery, Chiddingly , UK (20.05.-08.08.2021).


Lee Miller in Fashion

Lee Miller in Fashion

Author: Becky E. Conekin

Publisher: The Monacelli Press, LLC

Published: 2013-10-08

Total Pages: 25

ISBN-13: 1580933769

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Fashion model, surrealist artist, muse, photographer, war correspondent—Lee Miller defies categorization. She was a woman who refused to be penned in, a free spirit constantly on the move from New York to London to Paris, from husbands to lovers and back, from photojournalistic objectivism to surrealism. Midcareer, she made the unprecedented transition from one side of the lens to the other, from a Condé Nast model in Jazz Age New York to fashion photographer, creating stunning images that imbued fashion with her signature wit and whimsy. Miller became a celebrated Surrealist under the tutelage of her lover, Man Ray, and then joined the war effort during World War II, documenting everything from the liberation of concentration camps to the daily life of Nazi-occupied Paris. Miller was recognized as “one of the most distinguished living photographers” during her hey-day as a fashion photographer, but an astonishing number of these images have remained unpublished. Lee Miller in Fashion is the first book to examine how her career as a model and fashion photographer illuminates her life story and connects to international fashion history from the late 1920s until the early 1950s. The world of fashion emerges as the backbone of Miller’s creative development, as well as an integral lens through which to understand the effects of war on the lives of women in the 1940s and 1950s. Miller witnessed incredible acts of resistance born out through fashion—and her photographic record of women’s indomitable spirit even in times of war has remained an invaluable resource in fashion and global history. Lee Miller in Fashion presents these striking archival fashion photographs as well as contact sheets, memos, and Miller’s published illustrations, vividly setting the wit, irrepressible creativity, and daring of Miller within the larger story of women’s experience of fashion, art, and war in the twentieth century. “In all her different worlds, she moved with freedom. In all her roles, she was her own bold self.” —Antony Penrose


Fashion in the 1940s

Fashion in the 1940s

Author: Jayne Shrimpton

Publisher: Bloomsbury Publishing

Published: 2014-10-10

Total Pages: 118

ISBN-13: 1784420263

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This book reveals the impact of wartime and austerity on British fashion and tells the story of how a spirit of patriotism and make-do-and-mend unleashed a wave of new creativity among women who were starved of high fashion by shortages and rationing. Many home dressmakers copied the high-end looks, and women involved in war work created a whole new aesthetic of less formal street wear. Fashion in the 1940s also shows how the Second World War shifted the centre of the international couture scene away from Paris, allowing British designers to influence Home Front style. Afterwards Paris fashion was re-born with Dior's extravagant New Look, while casual American trends were widely adopted by young British women and men.


Make Do and Mend

Make Do and Mend

Author: Great Britain. Ministry of Information

Publisher: Imperial War Museums

Published: 2007

Total Pages: 0

ISBN-13: 9781904897644

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"First published by the Ministry of Information in 1943"--T.p. verso.


The History of Modern Fashion

The History of Modern Fashion

Author: Daniel James Cole

Publisher: Laurence King Publishing

Published: 2015-08-24

Total Pages: 480

ISBN-13: 1780677979

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This exciting book explores fashion not simply from an aesthetic point of view but also as a manifestation of social and cultural change. Focusing on fashion from 1850, noted fashion historians Daniel James Cole and Nancy Deihl consider the evolution of womenswear, menswear, and childrenswear, decade by decade. The book looks at the dissemination of style and the mechanisms of change, at the relationship between fashion and the visual, applied, and performing arts, the intertwined relationship between fashion and popular culture, the impact of new materials and technology, and the growing globalization of style. With photographs of costume from museums and images from the fashion press including editorial photography, illustrations, and advertising, the book will include insights into icons of fashion and the clothes worn by “real people”, providing a valuable visual reference for the reader.


Paris Fashion and World War Two

Paris Fashion and World War Two

Author: Lou Taylor

Publisher: Bloomsbury Publishing

Published: 2020-01-09

Total Pages: 361

ISBN-13: 1350000280

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Winner of the Association of Dress Historians Book of the Year Award, 2021 In 1939, fashion became an economic and symbolic sphere of great importance in France. Invasive textile legislation, rationing and threats from German and American couturiers were pushing the design and trade of Parisian style to its limits. It is widely accepted that French fashion was severely curtailed as a result, isolated from former foreign clients and deposed of its crown as global queen of fashion. This pioneering book offers a different story. Arguing that Paris retained its hold on the international haute couture industry right throughout WWII, eminent dress historians and curators come together to show that, amid political, economic and cultural traumas, Paris fashion remained very much alive under the Nazi occupation – and on an international level. Bringing exciting perspectives to challenge a familiar story and introducing new overseas trade links out of occupied France, this book takes us from the salons of renowned couturiers such as Edward Molyneux and Robert Piguet, French Vogue and Le Jardin des Modes and luxury Lyon silk factories, to Rio de Janeiro, Denmark and Switzerland, and the great American department stores of New York. Also comparing extravagant Paris occupation styles to austerity fashions of the UK and USA, parallel industrial and design developments highlight the unresolvable tension between luxury fashion and the everyday realities of wartime life. Showing that Paris strove to maintain world dominance as leader of couture through fashion journalism, photography and exported fashion forecasting, Paris Fashion and World War Two makes a significant contribution to the cultural history of fashion.


The Fashion Image

The Fashion Image

Author: Thomas Werner

Publisher: Bloomsbury Publishing

Published: 2019-04-04

Total Pages: 257

ISBN-13: 1474240852

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Great fashion photography, at its best, reflects and shapes the era in which it is made. Whether you are a student, aspiring photographer, or working professional, building a fashion portfolio that aspires to this standard can be daunting. The Fashion Image will help you develop your style through practical advice for image makers. Beginning with a history of fashion photography, Thomas Werner offers advice on assembling your creative team, casting models, developing shoot concepts, and producing photographs and fashion film for editorial and advertising. Professional practice, including self-promotion, social media, set etiquette, and fashion in a global context are also discussed. This is 'how to' at the highest level, with interviews from working fashion photographers, magazine editors, producers, fashion designers, and more, with around 200 color photographs that illustrate the fashion image at its best. With an extensive list of international resources, including Instagram accounts and several assignments, this book is an essential guide for fashion photographers and film makers.