Reforming Women's Fashion, 1850-1920

Reforming Women's Fashion, 1850-1920

Author: Patricia A. Cunningham

Publisher: Kent State University Press

Published: 2003

Total Pages: 274

ISBN-13: 9780873387422

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This work focuses on the efforts toward reforming women's dress that took place in Europe and America in the latter half of the 18th century and the first decade of the 20th century, and the types of garments adopted by women to overcome the challenges posed by fashionable dress. It considers the many advocates for reform and examines their motives, their arguments for change, and how they promoted improvements in women's fashion. Though there was no single overarching dress reform movement, it reveals similarities among the arguments posed by diverse groups of reformers, including especially the equation of reform with an ideal image of improved health. Drawing on a variety of primary and secondary sources in the USA and Europe - including the popular press, advice books for women, allopathic and alternative medical literature, and books on aesthetics, art, health, and physical education - the text makes a significant contribution to costume studies, social history, and women's studies.


Victorian Fashions for Women

Victorian Fashions for Women

Author: Fiona Kay

Publisher: Pen and Sword History

Published: 2022-08-25

Total Pages: 299

ISBN-13: 1399004174

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A delightfully illustrated history of women’s wear in Victorian England, with decade-by-decade details of the styles—and the lifestyles they represented. Victorian Fashions for Women explores British styles and clothing throughout the long reign of Queen Victoria, from the late 1830s to the first years of the twentieth century. It provides a superb overview of the dresses, hats, hairstyles, corsetry, undergarments, shoes, and boots that combined to present the prevailing styles for each decade. It reflects a variety of women—from those who had enough money to have day and evening wear and clothes for sports and outdoor activities, to those with limited income and wardrobes, to laboring folk with little more than the clothes they stood up in. All decades are illustrated with original photographs, advertisements, and contemporary magazine features from the authors’ own remarkable collections, accompanied by a knowledgeable and informative text that describes the fashions, their social history context, and influences reflected in the clothes of the time. Laid out in a clear and easy-to-follow chronological order, the key features of styles, decoration, and accoutrements will help family historians to date family photographs and provide a useful resource for students, costume historians, or anyone with a love of fashion and style to enjoy.


The Cut of His Coat

The Cut of His Coat

Author: Brent Shannon

Publisher: Ohio University Press

Published: 2006-08-22

Total Pages: 265

ISBN-13: 0821442287

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The English middle class in the late nineteenth century enjoyed an increase in the availability and variety of material goods. With that, the visual markers of class membership and manly behavior underwent a radical change. In The Cut of His Coat: Men, Dress, and Consumer Culture in Britain, 1860–1914, Brent Shannon examines familiar novels by authors such as George Eliot, Anthony Trollope, Thomas Hughes, and H. G. Wells, as well as previously unexamined etiquette manuals, period advertisements, and fashion monthlies, to trace how new ideologies emerged as mass-produced clothes, sartorial markers, and consumer culture began to change. While Victorian literature traditionally portrayed women as having sole control of class representations through dress and manners, Shannon argues that middle-class men participated vigorously in fashion. Public displays of their newly acquired mannerisms, hairstyles, clothing, and consumer goods redefined masculinity and class status for the Victorian era and beyond. The Cut of His Coat probes the Victorian disavowal of men’s interest in fashion and shopping to recover men’s significant role in the representation of class through self-presentation and consumer practices.


Dress Culture in Late Victorian Women's Fiction

Dress Culture in Late Victorian Women's Fiction

Author: Christine Bayles Kortsch

Publisher: Routledge

Published: 2016-05-13

Total Pages: 212

ISBN-13: 1317148002

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In her immensely readable and richly documented book, Christine Bayles Kortsch asks us to shift our understanding of late Victorian literary culture by examining its inextricable relationship with the material culture of dress and sewing. Even as the Education Acts of 1870, 1880, and 1891 extended the privilege of print literacy to greater numbers of the populace, stitching samplers continued to be a way of acculturating girls in both print literacy and what Kortsch terms "dress culture." Kortsch explores nineteenth-century women's education, sewing and needlework, mainstream fashion, alternative dress movements, working-class labor in the textile industry, and forms of social activism, showing how dual literacy in dress and print cultures linked women writers with their readers. Focusing on Victorian novels written between 1870 and 1900, Kortsch examines fiction by writers such as Olive Schreiner, Ella Hepworth Dixon, Margaret Oliphant, Sarah Grand, and Gertrude Dix, with attention to influential predecessors like Elizabeth Gaskell, Charlotte Brontë, and George Eliot. Periodicals, with their juxtaposition of journalism, fiction, and articles on dress and sewing are particularly fertile sites for exploring the close linkages between print and dress cultures. Informed by her examinations of costume collections in British and American museums, Kortsch's book broadens our view of New Woman fiction and its relationship both to dress culture and to contemporary women's fiction.


Who's who

Who's who

Author: Henry Robert Addison

Publisher:

Published: 1905

Total Pages: 1898

ISBN-13:

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An annual biographical dictionary, with which is incorporated "Men and women of the time."