Suspended Sediments Measured in the Surf Zone

Suspended Sediments Measured in the Surf Zone

Author: William Denton Morris

Publisher:

Published: 1977

Total Pages: 108

ISBN-13:

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Suspended sediments were measured optically within the surf zone at Torrey Pines Beach, California. Sediment laden water was sampled through three intake nozzles which were mounted on a tower along with the optical sensor (nephelometer) which was in line with the sediment laden water which was pumped to the shore. The nephelometer gave a time series of the suspended sediments. The water pumped to the beach was filtered to obtain total sediment concentration. Horizontal velocities were measured simultaneously with an electromagnetic current meter mounted on the same tower. During the experiments the breaker height ranged between 1 and 2 meters and the mean period between 8 to 16 seconds. The peaks of the nephelometer spectra occurred at approximately twice the peak frequency in the velocity spectra indicating two or more maximas per wave period. Cross spectra were computed between suspended sediments and horizontal velocity. A maximum coherence ranging above .7 occurred at the first harmonic of the peak wave frequency. The suspended sand was well sorted quartz with a mean grain size of 0.15 mm. Suspended sand concentration appeared to decrease exponentially with height above the bottom with the rate of decrease and total concentration related to the mean bed shear stress. Mean sand concentration ranged between 0.05 to 0.32 grams of sand per liter of sea water. (Author).


Mechanics of Coastal Sediment Transport

Mechanics of Coastal Sediment Transport

Author: J?rgen Freds?e

Publisher: World Scientific

Published: 1992

Total Pages: 406

ISBN-13: 9789810208400

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This book treats the subject of sediment transport in the marine environment, covering transport of non-cohesive sediment by waves and current in- and outside the surf zone. It can be read independently, but a background in hydraulics and basic wave mechanics is required. It is intended for M.Sc. and Ph.D. students. The primary aim of the book is to describe the physical processes of sediment transport and how to represent them in mathematical models. It does not present a large number of different formulae for the sediment transport rates under various conditions. The book can be divided in two main parts; in the first, the relevant hydrodynamic theory is described; in the second, sediment transport and morphological development are treated. The hydrodynamic part contains a review of elementary theory for water waves, chapters on the turbulent wave boundary layer and the turbulent interaction between waves and currents, and finally, surf zone hydrodynamics and wave driven currents. The part on sediment transport introduces the basic concepts (critical bed shear stress, bed load, suspended load and sheet layer, near-bed concentration, effect of sloping bed); it treats suspended sediment in waves and current and in the surf zone, and current and wave-generated bed forms. Finally, the modelling of cross-shore and long-shore sediment transport is described together with the development, of coastal profiles and coastlines.


Suspended Sediment in Breaking Waves

Suspended Sediment in Breaking Waves

Author: Timothy W. Kana

Publisher:

Published: 1979

Total Pages: 174

ISBN-13:

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Suspended sediment concentration was measured in 235 breaking waves on undeveloped beaches near Price Inlet, South Carolina, U.S.A., using portable in situ bulk water samplers. The purpose of the study was to determine what factors control the distribution of suspended sediment in the breaker zone. The final conclusion inferred from accumulated data is that sediment transport is highly dependent on breaker type. Net offshore movement and equilibrium profiles can be qualitatively explained on the basis of variations in wave form, beach slope and suspended sediment concentration. Longshore transport rates are dependent not only on wave height, but on breaker type, which can be quantified to reasonable certainty by the simple ratio, d sub b/H sub b, relative wave height. (Author).