The sport of surfing is so much more than just a water sport or paddling out and catching waves. It becomes a lifestyle or a perspective of life for many. Why is this? Surfing teaches one to flow with nature and the elements. In order to excel, a deep understanding of the ocean, weather, coastal topography, and even marine life must be grasped. Somewhat contrary to the psychologically programmed ideals of society and civilization, surfing teaches balance with nature and the environment and gives one a sense of mans true niche in our ever-changing world. The first in a series, this book shares true, chronologically compiled surfing stories that span two decades.
A deep look into the surf therapy movement, the therapists at the forefront of this radical new treatment, and its many applications for treating anxiety, PTSD, and more. Surfing? As a form of therapy? It’s not just possible—it’s powerful. Surf therapy is an emerging field with promising results which aims to address the mental, physical and emotional epidemics of the modern age. In Surf Therapy, author Cash Lambert paddles out with today’s leading surf therapy practitioners and surf therapy organizations to discover how surfing is changing lives for the better. See how much surf therapy can help in treating: • Drug addiction and addiction recovery • Children and adults diagnosed with autism • Social development of at-risk inner-city children • Physical disabilities like spinal cord injuries • PTSD in active-duty police officers • Terminal illnesses like cystic fibrosis • Women recovering from abusive living situations With interviews from today’s leading surf therapy practitioners and data from groundbreaking studies, Surf Therapy is a story of science, resilience, and the lengths that humans will go to help one another in need.
**Winner of the 2016 Pulitzer Prize for Autobiography** Included in President Obama’s 2016 Summer Reading List “Without a doubt, the finest surf book I’ve ever read . . . ” —The New York Times Magazine Barbarian Days is William Finnegan’s memoir of an obsession, a complex enchantment. Surfing only looks like a sport. To initiates, it is something else: a beautiful addiction, a demanding course of study, a morally dangerous pastime, a way of life. Raised in California and Hawaii, Finnegan started surfing as a child. He has chased waves all over the world, wandering for years through the South Pacific, Australia, Asia, Africa. A bookish boy, and then an excessively adventurous young man, he went on to become a distinguished writer and war reporter. Barbarian Days takes us deep into unfamiliar worlds, some of them right under our noses—off the coasts of New York and San Francisco. It immerses the reader in the edgy camaraderie of close male friendships forged in challenging waves. Finnegan shares stories of life in a whites-only gang in a tough school in Honolulu. He shows us a world turned upside down for kids and adults alike by the social upheavals of the 1960s. He details the intricacies of famous waves and his own apprenticeships to them. Youthful folly—he drops LSD while riding huge Honolua Bay, on Maui—is served up with rueful humor. As Finnegan’s travels take him ever farther afield, he discovers the picturesque simplicity of a Samoan fishing village, dissects the sexual politics of Tongan interactions with Americans and Japanese, and navigates the Indonesian black market while nearly succumbing to malaria. Throughout, he surfs, carrying readers with him on rides of harrowing, unprecedented lucidity. Barbarian Days is an old-school adventure story, an intellectual autobiography, a social history, a literary road movie, and an extraordinary exploration of the gradual mastering of an exacting, little-understood art.
Three expert physicians/surfers trained in emergency medicine, sports medicine, and family medicine explain everything you need to know to stay safe in the water. Whether you’re a novice or an expert, an SUPer or a bodyboarder, Surf Survival is the only book that every surfer must have in his or her backpack, car, and beach house. This practical handbook explains everything from how to reduce a shoulder dislocation to understanding waves and currents, from how to treat jellyfish stings to how to apply a tourniquet. Whether you are surfing a crowded beach in California or a remote island in Indonesia, be prepared to handle surfing-related emergencies from hypothermia and drowning to wound care and infections. Topics include: • Fitness for surfers • Prevention and rehabilitation of common overuse injuries • Wilderness first aid • Surviving the sun • Surf-travel medicine • Surviving big surf • SUP • Surfer's ear • And much, much more! Written by three expert physician surfers, packed with color photos and illustrations, this is the authoritative medical guide for surfers and watermen.
Surf Lessons is a new book from author and longtime East Coast surfer Earl Shores.Put your toes in the sand and the wax in your hand as you drop into the pages of this vibrant set of surf stories from Earl Shores. It's a Top 20 of his best work, including favorites from his early days with Eastern Surf Magazine. And it's one of the few surf books ever written from a purely East Coast perspective.That means Surf Lessons isn't full of heroic gnarly surf dudes trekking the globe for perfect waves. Instead, Shores aims his focus on the ordinary moments of the surfing experience. After putting the reader in his "regular guy" flip-flops, he never fails to capture the passion that inspires surfers to rise before dawn to catch the uncrowded early morning calm.This is a book that all readers can enjoy.So even if you've never climbed into a thick wetsuit for a wintertime wave fix, you will still enjoy Surf Lessons. Just bring your sense of adventure and your sense of humor. And be ready to shake the sand from your trunks and the water from your ears as you turn the final page.
CATCH THE WAVE Have you always thought surfing looks like so much fun but lacked the confidence to try it? Do you dream of having sun-bleached hair and surf-toned arms? Maybe you’d like to join those surfers you watch from the comfort of your beach towel? With women’s surfing booming as never before, now is the perfect time to grab a board and get out there! If you’re a girl who longs to mix it up with the boys in the surf, carve graceful lines across the face of a wave, and feel the exhilaration of surfing, this book is for you. Surf’s Up has it all, including • what to look for when buying a surfboard • how to find the right waves • how to paddle out, catch waves, stand up, and turn your board • a colorful history of women’s surfing, from Gidget to Beachley • where to find North America’s dream surfing spots Writing with the passion that comes from living the surfing life for more than fifteen years, Louise Southerden brings her love of surfing to every page, offering a glimpse of surfing subculture, surf lingo, the rules of the waves, and helpful tips from other surfer girls who have survived the learning-to-surf journey. Surf’s Up is encouraging and empowering: a book no surfer girl should be without!
Cheri Hamilton, Bethany’s mom, tells the inspiring story of the Hamilton Family. Bethany Hamilton’s incredible story of surviving and thriving in the wake of a shark attack, told in her best-selling autobiography Soul Surfer, has sold more than 1.5 million copies. Yet her family’s adventures started long before Bethany lost her arm and became a pro surfer. Now Cheri Hamilton, Bethany’s mom, tells the inspiring story of the Hamilton Family. Raising a Soul Surfer invites readers to journey with the Hamiltons to the lush islands of Hawaii, to experience a worldwide news event, Bethany’s shark attack, from her parents’ point of view. Witness the many small steps of faith and how God stepped in and gave them a higher purpose.
This guide showcases the world of extreme surfing, describing the unique culture associated with this daredevil's sport, providing insights into what makes the top riders tick, explaining the science of big waves, and more. "The Pipeline" in O'ahu, Hawaii. "Maverick's Point" in northern California. "Ours" near Sydney, Australia. All over the world, extreme surfers risk severe injury or even death from riptides, shark attacks, and collisions with the seabed itself, just to experience the ultimate high from tackling—and triumphing over—one of the most powerful forces on earth. Surfing: The Ultimate Guide explains the culture of extreme surfing—including the often violent "locals only" mentality—and analyzes the dangers involved in riding the world's biggest and most ferocious waves. The author examines the history of extreme surfing, including past and contemporary heroes; the science of giant waves; the technical criteria for riding them; and the future of big-wave riding.
This third edition prepares entrepreneurs for the rewards and pitfalls of this career choice. It explores a new theme on how to effectively manage a start-up company. Focus on Real Entrepreneurs sections highlight how entrepreneurs position their companies to meet the various marketing, financial, and technological challenges. Management Track sections present key management issues while following the development of a real company. Entrepreneurs will also find real situations and examples on which they can practice the broad range of skills required to start and build a company in today's complex world.
