Bustle Fashions, 1885-1887
Bustle Fashions, 1885-1887

Author: Frances Grimble

Publisher:

Published: 2010

Total Pages: 446

ISBN-13: 9780963651785

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Bustle fashions 1885-1887 contains a wide selection of high-quality women's clothing patterns from the height of the bustle era. During these years, the waist was flattered by a closely fitted bodice, considerable fullness below the waist in back, and ample skirt draperies. This book contains practical patterns for undergarments and nightgowns; wrappers and tea gowns; bodices, skirts, and overskirts; complete ensembles for street and hose wear; and outer jackets, coats, dolmans, and cloaks. The patterns are drawn from rare original issues of the magazine The Voice of Fashion and 1885 to 1887 editions of the pattern book The National Garment Cutter. They were used by both amateur and professional dressmakers to make up the mainstream styles of the day, and are very similar to patterns published by Butterick. These patterns are enlarged with apportioning scales, which are provided in this book, along with step-by-step instructions. Apportioning scales are special rulers that enable you to draft custom sizes, from queen size to doll size, without doing arithmetic. Most patterns in this book are accompanied by supplementary illustrations with detailed descriptions, drawn from Butterick's Delineator magazine. Each of these supplements shows optional style variations that can be produced by using flat patterns alteration techniques, or merely by substituting a garment section from a different pattern in this book. The descriptions include information on construction and fabrics. Edited selections from fashion columns in The Delineator, Harpers Bazar, and other publications add information on style trends. Also drawn from The Delineator are instructions and illustrations for 208 trimmings and 91 accessories. In addition, a chapter on dressmaking, assembled from articles in Godey's Lady's Book, gives detailed information on making garments for the second half of the 1880s. The book's glossary explains period fabric names and dressmaking terms. Bustle Fashions 1885-1887 is a pattern source for readers who recreate period clothing for theater and film; living history; Old West and single-action shooting events; steampunk and goth outfits; bridal parties; or dolls. It's a valuable identification and dating tool for costume historians and vintage clothing collectors. And it will spark ideas for fashion designers.

All Things Altered
All Things Altered

Author: Marilyn Mayer Culpepper

Publisher: McFarland

Published: 2014-09-18

Total Pages: 380

ISBN-13: 1476603928

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Few readers of Margaret Mitchell's Gone with the Wind remained unmoved by how the strong-willed Scarlett O'Hara tried to rebuild Tara after the Civil War ended. This book examines the problems that Southern women faced during the Reconstruction Era, in Part I as mothers, wives, daughters or sisters of men burdened with financial difficulties and the radical Republican regime, and in Part II with specific illustrations of their tribulations through the letters and diaries of five different women. A lonely widow with young children, Sally Randle Perry is struggling to get her life back together, following the death of her husband in the war. Virginia Caroline Smith Aiken, a wife and mother, born into affluence and security, struggles to emerge from the financial and psychological problems of the postwar world. Susan Darden, also a wife and mother, details the uncertainties and frustrations of her life in Fayette, Mississippi. Jo Gillis tells the sad tale of a young mother straining to cope with the depressed circumstances enveloping most ministers in the aftermath of the war. As the wife of a Methodist Episcopal minister in the Alabama Conference she sacrifices herself into an early grave in an attempt to further her husband's career. Inability to collect a debt three times that of the $10,000 debt her father owed brought Anna Clayton Logan, her eleven brothers and sisters, and her parents face-to-face with starvation.

The Reconstruction Era and the Fragility of Democracy
The Reconstruction Era and the Fragility of Democracy

Author: Facing History and Ourselves

Publisher: Facing History & Ourselves National Foundation, Incorporated

Published: 2017-11-22

Total Pages: 0

ISBN-13: 9781940457468

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provides history teachers with dozens of primary and secondary source documents, close reading exercises, lesson plans, and activity suggestions that will push students both to build a complex understanding of the dilemmas and conflicts Americans faced during Reconstruction.

Shaping Femininity
Shaping Femininity

Author: Sarah Bendall

Publisher: Bloomsbury Publishing

Published: 2021-10-07

Total Pages: 353

ISBN-13: 1350164135

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Highly Commended, Society for Renaissance Studies Biennial Book Prize 2022 In sixteenth and seventeenth-century England, the female silhouette underwent a dramatic change. This very structured form, created using garments called bodies and farthingales, existed in various extremes in Western Europe and beyond, in the form of stays, corsets, hoop petticoats and crinolines, right up until the twentieth century. With a nuanced approach that incorporates a stunning array of visual and written sources and drawing on transdisciplinary methodologies, Shaping Femininity explores the relationship between material culture and femininity by examining the lives of a wide range of women, from queens to courtiers, farmer's wives and servants, uncovering their lost voices and experiences. It reorients discussions about female foundation garments in English and wider European history, arguing that these objects of material culture began to shape and define changing notions of the feminine bodily ideal, social status, sexuality and modesty in the early modern period, influencing enduring Western notions of femininity. Beautifully illustrated in full colour throughout, Shaping Femininity is the first large-scale exploration of the materiality, production, consumption and meanings of women's foundation garments in sixteenth and seventeenth-century England. It offers a fascinating insight into dress and fashion in the early modern period, and offers much of value to all those interested in the history of early modern women and gender, material culture and consumption, and the history of the body, as well as curators and reconstructors.

Directoire Revival Fashions 1888-1889
Directoire Revival Fashions 1888-1889

Author: Frances Grimble

Publisher:

Published: 2010

Total Pages: 563

ISBN-13: 9780963651792

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Directoire Revival Fashions 1888-1889 contains an in-depth selection of high-quality women's clothing patterns from the end of the bustle era. During these years, picturesque styles evoking the late 18th and early 19th centuries were popular. The silhouette progressively deflated from one with considerable back fullness and puffy draperies to the comparatively narrow one of the early 1890s. This book contains practical patterns for undergarments and morning wear; wrappers and tea gowns; skirts and overskirts; ensembles consisting of a bodice, skirt, and draperies; ensembles consisting of a polonaise and a skirt; house, street, and evening dresses; outfits for lawn tennis and riding; and outer jackets, coats, and wraps. The patterns are drawn from rare original issues of The Voice of Fashion magazine. They were used by both amateur and professional dressmakers to make up the mainstream styles of the day, and are very similar to patterns published by Butterick. These patterns are enlarged with apportioning scales, which are provided in this book, along with step-by-step instructions. Apportioning scales are special rulers that enable you to draft custom sizes, from queen size to doll size, without doing arithmetic. Many patterns in this book are accompanied by supplementary illustrations with detailed descriptions, drawn from Butterick's Delineator magazine. Each supplement shows optional style variations that can be produced by using flat pattern alteration techniques, or by substituting a garment section from a different pattern in this book. The descriptions include information on construction and fabrics. Selections from fashion columns in The Delineator and Harper's Bazar, and from a circa 1890 dressmaking manual, add information on construction and on style trends. Also drawn from The Delineator are instructions and illustrations for 34 trimmings and 85 accessories. The book's glossary explains period fabric names and dressmaking terms. Directoire Revival Fashions 1888-1889 is a rich pattern source for readers who recreate period clothing for theater and film; living history; Old West and single-action shooting events; steampunk and goth outfits; bridal parties; or dolls. It's a valuable identification and dating tool for costume historians and vintage clothing collectors. And it will spark ideas for fashion designers.

Reconstructing Reconstruction
Reconstructing Reconstruction

Author: Pamela Brandwein

Publisher: Duke University Press

Published: 1999

Total Pages: 292

ISBN-13: 9780822323167

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Looks at the contest to construct history, focusing on competing versions of Reconstruction history supported by different factions after the Civil War. The author analyzes how the ultimately dominant version of the history won credence and how that in

Searching for Black Confederates
Searching for Black Confederates

Author: Kevin M. Levin

Publisher: UNC Press Books

Published: 2019-08-09

Total Pages: 241

ISBN-13: 1469653273

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More than 150 years after the end of the Civil War, scores of websites, articles, and organizations repeat claims that anywhere between 500 and 100,000 free and enslaved African Americans fought willingly as soldiers in the Confederate army. But as Kevin M. Levin argues in this carefully researched book, such claims would have shocked anyone who served in the army during the war itself. Levin explains that imprecise contemporary accounts, poorly understood primary-source material, and other misrepresentations helped fuel the rise of the black Confederate myth. Moreover, Levin shows that belief in the existence of black Confederate soldiers largely originated in the 1970s, a period that witnessed both a significant shift in how Americans remembered the Civil War and a rising backlash against African Americans' gains in civil rights and other realms. Levin also investigates the roles that African Americans actually performed in the Confederate army, including personal body servants and forced laborers. He demonstrates that regardless of the dangers these men faced in camp, on the march, and on the battlefield, their legal status remained unchanged. Even long after the guns fell silent, Confederate veterans and other writers remembered these men as former slaves and not as soldiers, an important reminder that how the war is remembered often runs counter to history.

Reconstructing Democracy
Reconstructing Democracy

Author: Justin Behrend

Publisher: University of Georgia Press

Published: 2015

Total Pages: 376

ISBN-13: 0820340332

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Within a few short years after emancipation, freedpeople of the Natchez District created a new democracy in the Reconstruction era, replacing the oligarchic rule of slaveholders and Confederates with a grassroots democracy that transformed the South after the Civil War.

Reconstruction Era
Reconstruction Era

Author: Hourly History

Publisher:

Published: 2019-07-09

Total Pages: 48

ISBN-13: 9781079399073

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Reconstruction EraThe American Civil War, fought from 1861 to 1865, produced casualties and destruction on an unprecedented scale. Up to 800,000 soldiers were killed, and huge swathes of the American south were devastated. However, although the defeat of the Confederate States and the end of the war brought peace of a sort, it left many unresolved issues. The period following the end of the Civil War has become known as the Reconstruction Era, and during this time there were efforts to achieve two separate goals: to reintegrate the former rebel southern states fully into the Union and to achieve not only the abolition of slavery-which had been a war aim for the north-but also the emancipation and granting of civil rights to freed slaves. Inside you will read about...✓ The End of Abraham Lincoln and the Civil War ✓ Radical Reconstruction ✓ Carpetbaggers and Scalawags ✓ The Rise of the Ku Klux Klan ✓ Corruption and Recession And much more! The Reconstruction Era proved almost as divisive as the Civil War itself-the freeing of slaves threatened to undermine the very basis of society and many southerners resisted. For some in the north, the unwillingness of people in the south to adopt new laws and new ways of life seemed to negate the whole point of the war. After all, what was the point of fighting and winning a war if the very things that were fought for failed to happen? The Reconstruction Era was a period of turmoil and change in the United States, and it ended not with a complete victory for either side but with a compromise which satisfied no-one. However, this period did pave the way for important changes which came much later. This is the complex and sometimes confusing story of the Reconstruction Era.