Use this cool surf notebook at home, work or school as a journal, composition book or surf diary Colorful surf note pad for people who love surfing in this area or who are natives Fun, timeless tropical design for surfing fans Perfect as a composition book for school assignments, meeting notes or as a personal journal for daily writing, to do lists and more Size: 6 x 9 inches 120 pages
Use this cool surf notebook at home, work or school as a journal, composition book or surf diary Colorful surf note pad for people who love surfing in this area or who are natives Fun, timeless tropical design for surfing fans Perfect as a composition book for school assignments, meeting notes or as a personal journal for daily writing, to do lists and more Size: 7.5 x 9.25 inches 120 pages
Use this cool surf notebook at home, work or school as a journal, composition book or surf diary Colorful surf note pad for people who love surfing in this area or who are natives Fun, timeless tropical design for surfing fans Perfect as a composition book for school assignments, meeting notes or as a personal journal for daily writing, to do lists and more Size: 8.5 x 11 inches 120 pages
Use this cool surf notebook at home, work or school as a journal, composition book or surf diary Cool surf note book for people who love surfing in this area or who are natives Fun, timeless vintage tropical Polynesian design for surfing fans Perfect as a composition book for school assignments, meeting notes or as a personal journal for daily writing, to do lists and more Size: 7.5 x 9.25 inches 120 pages
Use this cool surf notebook at home, work or school as a journal, composition book or surf diary Cool surf note book for people who love surfing in this area or who are natives Fun, timeless vintage tropical Polynesian design for surfing fans Perfect as a composition book for school assignments, meeting notes or as a personal journal for daily writing, to do lists and more Size: 8.5 x 11 inches 120 pages
Use this cool surf notebook at home, work or school as a journal, composition book or surf diary Colorful surf note pad for people who love surfing in this area or who are natives Fun, timeless tropical design for surfing fans Perfect as a composition book for school assignments, meeting notes or as a personal journal for daily writing, to do lists and more Size: 6 x 9 inches 120 pages
Use this cool surf notebook at home, work or school as a journal, composition book or surf diary Colorful surf note pad for people who love surfing in this area or who are natives Fun, timeless tropical design for surfing fans Perfect as a composition book for school assignments, meeting notes or as a personal journal for daily writing, to do lists and more Size: 6 x 9 inches 120 pages
Size: 6 x 9 inches (15.25 x 22.86 cm) 120 pages Use it at home, work or school as a journal, notebook, composition book or diary Cool surf notebook for people who love surfing in this area or who are natives Fun, timeless vintage tropical design for surfing fans Perfect as a composition book for school assignments, meeting notes or as a personal journal for daily writing, to do lists and more
**Winner of the 2016 Pulitzer Prize for Autobiography** Included in President Obama’s 2016 Summer Reading List “Without a doubt, the finest surf book I’ve ever read . . . ” —The New York Times Magazine Barbarian Days is William Finnegan’s memoir of an obsession, a complex enchantment. Surfing only looks like a sport. To initiates, it is something else: a beautiful addiction, a demanding course of study, a morally dangerous pastime, a way of life. Raised in California and Hawaii, Finnegan started surfing as a child. He has chased waves all over the world, wandering for years through the South Pacific, Australia, Asia, Africa. A bookish boy, and then an excessively adventurous young man, he went on to become a distinguished writer and war reporter. Barbarian Days takes us deep into unfamiliar worlds, some of them right under our noses—off the coasts of New York and San Francisco. It immerses the reader in the edgy camaraderie of close male friendships forged in challenging waves. Finnegan shares stories of life in a whites-only gang in a tough school in Honolulu. He shows us a world turned upside down for kids and adults alike by the social upheavals of the 1960s. He details the intricacies of famous waves and his own apprenticeships to them. Youthful folly—he drops LSD while riding huge Honolua Bay, on Maui—is served up with rueful humor. As Finnegan’s travels take him ever farther afield, he discovers the picturesque simplicity of a Samoan fishing village, dissects the sexual politics of Tongan interactions with Americans and Japanese, and navigates the Indonesian black market while nearly succumbing to malaria. Throughout, he surfs, carrying readers with him on rides of harrowing, unprecedented lucidity. Barbarian Days is an old-school adventure story, an intellectual autobiography, a social history, a literary road movie, and an extraordinary exploration of the gradual mastering of an exacting, little-understood art.
La vague parfaite sous l'œil de la caméra. Le surf connut ses premières heures de gloire continentale dans les années 1950, sur la côte californienne, où il se mua rapidement en un véritable " style de vie " avant d'être admiré puis exporté aux quatre coins du globe. Le photographe sportif LeRoy Grannis fut l'un des principaux témoins et acteurs de cette génération : surfeur depuis 1931, il commença à fixer sur la pellicule le quotidien des surfeurs californiens et hawaïens au début des années 1960. Cette impressionnante collection de photos tirées des archives personnelles de l'auteur nous dévoile toute une palette d'impressions et de souvenirs de ces petits ou grands événements qui ont écrit l'histoire du surf, depuis les premiers ballets élégants des longboarders de San Onofre jusqu'aux prouesses des casse-cou d'Oahu, sur la côte nord d'Hawaï. Tout aussi remarquables sont ses précieux témoignages iconographiques sur la naissance d'un style de vie propre au surf - ici, un stomp improvisé en marge d'une compétition, là un pick-up Chevy bondé de planches sur la Pacific Coast Highway -, incarnations de l'esprit de liberté de cette époque dorée qui s'est achevée avec la révolution du shortboard et la mainmise du vedettariat sur une discipline jusque-là réservée à un cercle de gentlemen.
