Providing skills needed to translate design ideas and working sketches into garment patterns, this book presents a variety of methods. It is arranged in self-contained lessons with text and diagrams associated with the emphasis on a 3-dimensional, practical approach.
This fourth edition of Metric Pattern Cutting for Children's Wear and Babywear remains the standard text book but has three major improvements. First, the sections have been re-organised to reflect changes in producing and marketing children's clothes. Today's popularity of easy-fitting styles and knitted fabrics means that basic 'flat' pattern cutting is used to construct the majority of children's wear and babywear and this type of cutting is therefore emphasised in this new edition. Shaped blocks and garments, cut to fit the body form, are still included, and are placed in chapters covering some school uniform garments or more expensive fashion or formal clothes. The book now clearly separates the sections useful to student beginners (Parts One, Two and Three), and also offers more advanced or specialist sections for students who wish to pursue a career in children's wear or for designers working in the different manufacturing sectors of the trade. The second change in this fourth edition is the introduction of colour coding to the sections; this makes it easier to identify specific processes in the book and enhances the illustrations. Finally, the size charts have been revised to reflect the changes in body sizing. The clear division of the boys' and girls' measurements in the charts has been in response to the way clothes are marketed and to co-ordinate with European size charts. 'Plus' charts for heavier children have also been added.
Metric Pattern Cutting for Women's Wear provides a straightforward introduction to the principles of form pattern cutting for garments to fit the body shape, and flat pattern cutting for casual garments and jersey wear. This sixth edition remains true to the original concept: it offers a range of good basic blocks, an introduction to the basic principles of pattern cutting and examples of their application into garments. Fully revised and updated to include a brand new and improved layout, up-to-date skirt and trouser blocks that reflect the changes in body sizing, along with updates to the computer-aided design section and certain blocks, illustrations and diagrams. This best-selling textbook still remains the essential purchase for students and beginners looking to understand pattern cutting and building confidence to develop their own pattern cutting style.
Draping—the art of using cotton muslin to create womenswear directly on a dress form—is an essential skill for fashion designers. Through a series of step-by-step projects, designed to develop skills from the most basic to more advanced techniques, this book will guide you in creating both classic and contemporary garments, as well as historical styles and costumes. Draping projects include dresses, bustiers, and jackets, and highlight key fashion garments such as Audrey Hepburn's dress from Breakfast at Tiffany’s and the Dolce & Gabbana tuxedo jacket. Starting with the basics of choosing and preparing the dress form for draping, the book advances through pinning, trimming, and clipping, and creating shape using darts and tucks, to adding volume using pleats and gathers, and handling complex curves. Advanced skills include how to use support elements such as shoulder pads, under layers, and petticoats, and how to handle bias draping. The book culminates with a chapter on improvisational skills. Each skill and technique throughout the book is explained with step-by-step photographs and line drawings that bring the art of creating womenswear in three dimensions to life.
This practical guide explains how to take accurate measurements, introduces key tools and takes you from simple pattern-cutting ideas to more advanced creative methods. Step-by-step illustrations show how to create and then fit basic bodice, sleeve, skirt, dress, and trouser blocks, and how to adapt these to create patterns for original designs. New material includes advice on fitting toiles and working with stretch fabrics. There is also a fully updated chapter dedicated to digital technology. New to this edition: Access to 32 instructional videos
Fashion designers are presented with a range of methods and concepts for pattern cutting are presented, the main body of these methods, both traditional and contemporary, is predominately based on a theoretical approximation of the body that is derived from horizontal and vertical measurements of the body in an upright position: the tailoring matrix. As a consequence, there is a lack of interactive and dynamic qualities in methods connected to this paradigm of garment construction, from both expressional and functional perspectives. This work proposes and explores an alternative paradigm for pattern cutting that includes a new theoretical approximation of the body as well as a more kinetic method for garment construction that, unlike the prevalent theory and its related methods, takes as its point of origin the interaction between the anisotropic fabric and the biomechanical structure of the body. As such, the research conducted here is basic research, aiming to identify fundamental principles for garment construction. Based on some key principles found in the works of Geneviève Sevin-Doering and in pre-tailoring methods for constructing garments, the proposed theory for – and method of – garment construction was developed through concrete experiments by cutting and draping fabrics on live models. Instead of a static matrix of a non-moving body, the result is a kinetic construction theory of the body that is comprised of balance directions and key biomechanical points, along with an alternative draping method for dressmaking. This methodology challenges the fundamental relationship between dress, garment construction, and the body, working from the body outward, as opposed to the methods that are based on the prevalent paradigm of the tailoring matrix, which work from the outside toward the body. This alternative theory for understanding the body and the proposed method of working allows for diverse expressions and enhanced functional possibilities in dress.
“This is the most comprehensive teaching tool for learning and mastering draping techniques. The illustrations and the text for each drape are clear and explicit.” Laura K. Kidd, Southern Illinois University, USA Learn to drape fabric on a dress form to create your own patterns. The step-by-step instructions are organized from basic to advanced projects using both imperial and metric measurements, so you don't have to convert measurements. The book includes a wide variety of fashion styles, from bodices to bias-cut gowns. Intermediate and advanced design variations include an off-shoulder sleeve design and a peplum design. More than 1,000 two-color line drawings show you each draping step. - Checklists to evaluate and analyze designs - Cross-referencing of techniques across chapters - Online STUDIO includes video tutorials explaining key draping skills and techniques - Lay-flat binding makes the book easy to use while draping garments PLEASE NOTE: Purchasing or renting this ISBN does not include access to the STUDIO resources that accompany this text. To receive free access to the STUDIO content with new copies of this book, please refer to the book + STUDIO access card bundle ISBN 9781501330292.
Designed for both students and professionals, Pattern Cutting for Menswear offers a comprehensive guide to pattern cutting from the basic skills through to advanced techniques. Including 20 complete patterns that show how to cut every aspect of menswear, the book features adaptations from basic blocks through to classic garments and trend-led styles. Illustrated throughout, this book contains everything you need to know to cut patterns for today’s menswear market. Using a step-by-step approach, illustrated with accurately sized and scaled flat diagrams, technical flats and fashion illustrations and photographs of toiles, Pattern Cutting for Menswear explains the theory behind the practice, enabling the reader to cut patterns with confidence.
Zero Waste Fashion Design combines research and practice to introduce a crucial sustainable fashion design approach. Written by two industry leading pioneers, Timo Rissanen and Holly McQuillan, the book offers flexible strategies and easy-to-master zero waste techniques to help you develop your own cutting edge fashion designs. Sample flat patterns and more than 20 exercises will reinforce your understanding of the zero waste fashion design process. Beautifully illustrated interviews with high-profile, innovative designers, including Winifred Aldrich, Rickard Lindqvist and Yeohlee Teng, show the stunning garments produced by zero waste fashion design. Featured topics include: The criteria for zero waste fashion design Manufacturing zero waste garments Adapting existing designs for zero waste Zero waste designing with digital technologies