Cultures of Femininity in Modern Fashion
Author: Ilya Parkins
Publisher: UPNE
Published: 2011
Total Pages: 407
ISBN-13:
DOWNLOAD EBOOKAn interdisciplinary collection illuminating how fashion shaped concepts and practices of femininity and modernity
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Cultures of Femininity in Modern Fashion
Author: Ilya Parkins
Publisher: UPNE
Published: 2012-04-10
Total Pages: 266
ISBN-13: 1611682339
DOWNLOAD EBOOKAn interdisciplinary collection illuminating how fashion shaped concepts and practices of femininity and modernity
Shaping Femininity
Author: Sarah Bendall
Publisher: Bloomsbury Publishing
Published: 2021-10-07
Total Pages: 353
ISBN-13: 1350164135
DOWNLOAD EBOOKHighly Commended, Society for Renaissance Studies Biennial Book Prize 2022 In sixteenth and seventeenth-century England, the female silhouette underwent a dramatic change. This very structured form, created using garments called bodies and farthingales, existed in various extremes in Western Europe and beyond, in the form of stays, corsets, hoop petticoats and crinolines, right up until the twentieth century. With a nuanced approach that incorporates a stunning array of visual and written sources and drawing on transdisciplinary methodologies, Shaping Femininity explores the relationship between material culture and femininity by examining the lives of a wide range of women, from queens to courtiers, farmer's wives and servants, uncovering their lost voices and experiences. It reorients discussions about female foundation garments in English and wider European history, arguing that these objects of material culture began to shape and define changing notions of the feminine bodily ideal, social status, sexuality and modesty in the early modern period, influencing enduring Western notions of femininity. Beautifully illustrated in full colour throughout, Shaping Femininity is the first large-scale exploration of the materiality, production, consumption and meanings of women's foundation garments in sixteenth and seventeenth-century England. It offers a fascinating insight into dress and fashion in the early modern period, and offers much of value to all those interested in the history of early modern women and gender, material culture and consumption, and the history of the body, as well as curators and reconstructors.
Modernism à la Mode
Author: Elizabeth M. Sheehan
Publisher: Cornell University Press
Published: 2018-10-15
Total Pages: 178
ISBN-13: 1501728164
DOWNLOAD EBOOKModernism à la Mode argues that fashion describes why and how literary modernism matters in its own historical moment and ours. Bringing together texts, textiles, and theories of dress, Elizabeth Sheehan shows that writers, including Virginia Woolf, D.H. Lawrence, W.E.B. Du Bois, Nella Larsen, and F. Scott Fitzgerald, turned to fashion to understand what their own stylized works could do in the context of global capital, systemic violence, and social transformation. Modernists engage with fashion as a mood, a set of material objects, and a target of critique, and, in doing so, anticipate and address contemporary debates centered on the uses of literature and literary criticism amidst the supposed crisis in the humanities. A modernist affect with a purpose, no less. By engaging modernism à la mode—that is, contingently, contextually, and in light of contemporary concerns—this book offers an alternative to the often-untenable distinctions between strong or weak, suspicious or reparative, and politically activist or quietist approaches to literature, which frame current debates about literary methodology. As fashion helps us to describe what modernist texts do, it enables us to do more with modernism as a form of inquiry, perception, and critique. Fashion and modernism are interwoven forms of inquiry, perception, and critique, writes Sheehan. It is fashion that puts the work of early twentieth-century writers in conversation with twenty-first century theories of emotion, materiality, animality, beauty, and history.
Dressed for Freedom
Author: Einav Rabinovitch-Fox
Publisher: University of Illinois Press
Published: 2021-11-16
Total Pages: 368
ISBN-13: 0252052943
DOWNLOAD EBOOKOften condemned as a form of oppression, fashion could and did allow women to express modern gender identities and promote feminist ideas. Einav Rabinovitch-Fox examines how clothes empowered women, and particularly women barred from positions of influence due to race or class. Moving from 1890s shirtwaists through the miniskirts and unisex styles of the 1970s, Rabinovitch-Fox shows how the rise of mass media culture made fashion a vehicle for women to assert claims over their bodies, femininity, and social roles. She also highlights how trends in women’s sartorial practices expressed ideas of independence and equality. As women employed new clothing styles, they expanded feminist activism beyond formal organizations and movements and reclaimed fashion as a realm of pleasure, power, and feminist consciousness. A fascinating account of clothing as an everyday feminist practice, Dressed for Freedom brings fashion into discussions of American feminism during the long twentieth century.
Japanese Fashion Cultures
Author: Masafumi Monden
Publisher: Bloomsbury Publishing
Published: 2015-01-15
Total Pages: 217
ISBN-13: 1472532805
DOWNLOAD EBOOKThrough cutting-edge analysis of contemporary style tribes, Japanese Fashion Cultures challenges widely held notions of gender relations and European style imitation in Japan.
Fashion, Identity, and Power in Modern Asia
Author: Kyunghee Pyun
Publisher: Springer
Published: 2018-10-25
Total Pages: 429
ISBN-13: 3319971999
DOWNLOAD EBOOKThis edited volume on radical dress reforms in East Asia takes a fresh look at the symbols and languages of modernity in dress and body. Dress reform movements around the turn of the twentieth century in the region have received little critical attention as a multicultural discourse of labor, body, gender identity, colonialism, and government authority. With contributions by leading experts of costume/textile history of China, Korea, and Japan, this book presents up-to-date scholarship using diverse methodologies in costume history, history of consumption, and international trade. Thematically organized into sections exploring the garments and uniforms, accessories, fabrics, and fashion styles of Asia, this edited volume offers case studies for students and scholars in an ever-expanding field of material culture including, but not limited to, economic history, visual culture, art history, history of journalism, and popular culture. Fashion, Identity, and Power in Modern Asia stimulates further research on the impact of modernity and imperialism in neglected areas such as military uniform, school uniform, women’s accessories, hairstyles, and textile trade.
Women's Periodicals and Print Culture in Britain, 1918-1939
Author: Catherine Clay
Publisher: Edinburgh University Press
Published: 2018-03-07
Total Pages: 936
ISBN-13: 1474412556
DOWNLOAD EBOOKExplores the problem of anthropomorphism: a major bone of contention in 8th to 14th-century Islamic theology
Adorned in Dreams
Author: Elizabeth Wilson
Publisher: Rutgers University Press
Published: 2003
Total Pages: 358
ISBN-13: 9780813533339
DOWNLOAD EBOOKWhen Adorned in Dreams was first published in 1985, Angela Carter described the book as "the best I have read on the subject, bar none." From haute couture to haberdashery, "deviant" dress to Dior, Elizabeth Wilson traces the social and cultural history of fashion and its complex relationship to modernity. She also discusses fashion's vociferous opponents, from the "dress reform" movement to certain strands of feminism. Wilson delights in the power of fashion to mark out identity or subvert it. This brand new edition of her book follows recent developments to bring the story of fashionable dress up to date, exploring the grunge look inspired by bands like Nirvana, the "boho chic" of the mid 90's, retro-dressing, and the meanings of dress from the veil to soccer player David Beckham's pink-varnished toenails.
The Aftermath of Feminism
Author: Angela McRobbie
Publisher: SAGE
Published: 2008-11-20
Total Pages: 193
ISBN-13: 1446200345
DOWNLOAD EBOOKIn this trenchant inquiry into the state of feminism, Angela McRobbie breaks open the politics of sexual equality and ′affirmative feminism′ and sets down a new theory of gender power. Challenging the most basic assumptions of the ′end′ of feminism, this book argues that invidious forms of gender re-stabilisation are being re-established. Consumer and popular culture encroach on the terrain of so-called female freedom, appearing supportive of female success, yet tying women into new post-feminist neurotic dependencies. With a scathing critique of ′women′s empowerment′, McRobbie has developed a distinctive feminist analysis that she uses to examine socio-cultural phenomena embedded in contemporary women′s lives: from fashion photography and the television ′make-over′ genre to eating disorders, body anxiety and ′illegible rage′. A turning point in feminist theory, The Aftermath of Feminism will set a new agenda for gender studies and cultural studies.
