In recent times clothing has come to be seen as a topic worthy of study, yet there has been little source material available. This three-volume edition presents previously unpublished documents which illuminate key developments and issues in clothing in nineteenth-century England.
In recent times clothing has come to be seen as a topic worthy of study, yet there has been little source material available. This three-volume edition presents previously unpublished documents which illuminate key developments and issues in clothing in nineteenth-century England.
In recent times clothing has come to be seen as a topic worthy of study, yet there has been little source material available. This three-volume edition presents previously unpublished documents which illuminate key developments and issues in clothing in nineteenth-century England.
In this pioneering study Vivienne Richmond reveals the importance of dress to the nineteenth-century English poor, who valued clothing not only for its practical utility, but also as a central element in the creation and assertion of collective and individual identities. During this period of rapid industrialisation and urbanisation formal dress codes, corporate and institutional uniforms, and the spread of urban fashions replaced the informal dress of agricultural England. This laid the foundations of modern popular dress and generated fears about the visual blurring of social boundaries as new modes of manufacturing and retailing expanded the wardrobes of the majority. However, a significant impoverished minority remained outside this process. Clothed by diminishing parish assistance, expanding paternalistic charity and the second-hand trade, they formed a 'sartorial underclass' whose material deprivation and visual distinction was a cause of physical discomfort and psychological trauma.
This book explores students’ consumer practices and material desires in nineteenth-century Oxford. Consumerism surged among undergraduates in the 1830s and decreased by contrast from the 1860s as students learned to practice restraint and make wiser choices, putting a brake on past excessive consumption habits. This study concentrates on the minority of debtors, the daily lives of undergraduates, and their social and economic environment. It scrutinises the variety of goods that were on offer, paying special attention to their social and symbolic uses and meanings. Through emulation and self-display, undergraduate culture impacted the formation of male identities and spending habits. Using Oxford students as a case study, this book opens new pathways in the history of consumption and capitalism, revealing how youth consumer culture intertwined with the rise of competition among tradesmen and university reforms in the 1850s and 1860s.
In the context of this rapidly changing world, Rachel Worth explores the ways in which the clothing of the rural working classes was represented visually in paintings and photographs and by the literary sources of documentary, autobiography and fiction, as well as by the particular pattern of survival and collection by museums of garments of rural provenance. Rachel Worth explores ways in which clothing and how it is represented throws light on wider social and cultural aspects of society, as well as how 'traditional' styles of dress, like men's smock-frocks or women's sun-bonnets, came to be replaced by 'fashion'. Her compelling study, with black & white and colour illustrations, both adds a broader dimension to the history of dress by considering it within the social and cultural context of its time and discusses how clothing enriches our understanding of the social history of the Victorian period.
Recently, the history of clothing has been the subject of intense scholarly interest, but there has been a shortage of source material available. This three-volume collection redresses the balance, bringing together rare documents and unpublished manuscript material in both reset and facsimile form. The volumes cover the economics of buying and selling clothes, the art of dressmaking and its democratization and issues specific to working class dress during the Victorian and Edwardian periods. Volume 1 examines clothing from a commercial perspective and contains material from retailers' catalogues, advertizements, pricelists, posters and dressmakers' manuals. Illustrations are reproduced in facsimile while print material is presented in reset format. Volume 2 concentrates on changing social attitudes and dress reform, including a series of articles by or about Oscar Wilde. Other sources come from a variety of newspaper and magazine articles, extracts from books and the lyrics of comic songs. Volume 3 looks at the problems and solutions which were faced by the working class in their consumption of clothing. Various perspectives are examined through Parish newsletters and reports, as well as other local and national sources, to produce a picture of hardship and deprivation tempered with charity and ingenuity. This edition will not only be invaluable to those studying clothing but also to social historians and those with an interest in retailing and consumption.
In recent times clothing has come to be seen as a topic worthy of study, yet there has been little source material available. This three-volume edition presents previously unpublished documents which illuminate key developments and issues in clothing in nineteenth-century England.
Focuses on the key feature of women’s experience in an area often overlooked by crime historians, but that is becoming more popular with the modern attention paid to women's history. The book is written in an accessible way which will be appealing to undergraduates and postgraduates The focus on Wales, the Welsh and Welsh language and immigration will contribute to contemporary investigations.