This text offers a complete picture of the process of individual garment construction following the exact techniques used in the industry. The unique feature of this book is its presentation of each garment as a whole concept. With numerous diagrams and easy-to-follow instructions, students master the principles of design and flat pattern to create an individual item of apparel. Each chapter begins with the introduction of a basic sloper and follows with an explanation of the whole production process-making a garment from pattern drafting to garment construction, including lining, interfacing and markers. The balance of each chapter covers techniques for altering separate pattern pieces.
Fashion designers are presented with a range of methods and concepts for pattern cutting are presented, the main body of these methods, both traditional and contemporary, is predominately based on a theoretical approximation of the body that is derived from horizontal and vertical measurements of the body in an upright position: the tailoring matrix. As a consequence, there is a lack of interactive and dynamic qualities in methods connected to this paradigm of garment construction, from both expressional and functional perspectives. This work proposes and explores an alternative paradigm for pattern cutting that includes a new theoretical approximation of the body as well as a more kinetic method for garment construction that, unlike the prevalent theory and its related methods, takes as its point of origin the interaction between the anisotropic fabric and the biomechanical structure of the body. As such, the research conducted here is basic research, aiming to identify fundamental principles for garment construction. Based on some key principles found in the works of Geneviève Sevin-Doering and in pre-tailoring methods for constructing garments, the proposed theory for – and method of – garment construction was developed through concrete experiments by cutting and draping fabrics on live models. Instead of a static matrix of a non-moving body, the result is a kinetic construction theory of the body that is comprised of balance directions and key biomechanical points, along with an alternative draping method for dressmaking. This methodology challenges the fundamental relationship between dress, garment construction, and the body, working from the body outward, as opposed to the methods that are based on the prevalent paradigm of the tailoring matrix, which work from the outside toward the body. This alternative theory for understanding the body and the proposed method of working allows for diverse expressions and enhanced functional possibilities in dress.
This vintage book contains a comprehensive textbook for clothing designers, teachers of clothing technology, and senior students. With detailed diagrams and a wealth of useful and interesting information, this timeless handbook is highly recommended for those with an interest in fashion and design, and would make for a worthy addition to collections of related literature. Contents include: “The Human Body”, “Physical Proportions”, “The Sizing of Garments”, “Size and Movement”, “The Garment Pattern”, “Garment Balance”, “Measurement”, “Applying The Measurements to the Pattern”, “Garment Shape”, “The Designing of Speciality Garments”, and “The Grading of Patterns”. Many vintage books such as this are becoming increasingly scarce and expensive. We are republishing this volume now in an affordable, high-quality edition complete with a specially commissioned new introduction on embroidery.
Leather Fashion Design is a practical introduction for students explaining how to make garments fromleather, suede, and similar materials. It covers everything from what to look for in choosing a skin to work with, through pattern-making, sewing techniques, and finishing. The final chapter includes working with "leather-like" materials including ultrasuede and faux patent leather.
The Book Is Designed To Provide Uninitiated Readers With The Background Necessary For An Understanding And Appreciation Of Fashion And Apparel Designing Theory. Topics Are Systematically Divided Into Two Sections; Origin Of Fashion, Elements And Principles Of Designing, The Biographies Of International Designers And Their Famous Labels And Fashion In Chinese Revolution Are Covered In Section I. The Second Section Has Been Devoted To The Treatment Of Prints And Basic Silhouettes, Knowledge Of Which Is Essential Before A More Comprehensive Study Of Fashion Concepts Can Be Undertaken.I Hope That This Work Would Be Useful For Students, Both At Degree And Diploma Levels, As Well As General Readers. It Should Stimulate, Inspire And Encourage Further Study.The Presentation Is Profusely Illustrated With A Large Number Of Suitable Figures And Sketches To Provide A Graphics Treatment Of The Subject.
An essential primer for students and first-stop reference for professionals, The Fashion Design Reference & Specification Booktakes the fashion designer through the entire design process, from conceiving a garment to marketing it. This valuable handbook contains the information and ideas essential to planning and executing fashion projects of every scale and distills them in an easy-to-use format that is compact enough to slip into a tote. Linking six central phases in the cycle of fashion—research, editing, design, construction, connection, and evolution—The Fashion Design Reference & Specification Book helps designers develop effective strategies for building a cohesive collection and communicating their vision. The Reference & Specification Book series from Rockport Publishers offers students and practicing professionals in a range of creative industries must-have information in their area of specialty in an up-to-date, concise handbook.
Draping—the art of using cotton muslin to create womenswear directly on a dress form—is an essential skill for fashion designers. Through a series of step-by-step projects, designed to develop skills from the most basic to more advanced techniques, this book will guide you in creating both classic and contemporary garments, as well as historical styles and costumes. Draping projects include dresses, bustiers, and jackets, and highlight key fashion garments such as Audrey Hepburn's dress from Breakfast at Tiffany’s and the Dolce & Gabbana tuxedo jacket. Starting with the basics of choosing and preparing the dress form for draping, the book advances through pinning, trimming, and clipping, and creating shape using darts and tucks, to adding volume using pleats and gathers, and handling complex curves. Advanced skills include how to use support elements such as shoulder pads, under layers, and petticoats, and how to handle bias draping. The book culminates with a chapter on improvisational skills. Each skill and technique throughout the book is explained with step-by-step photographs and line drawings that bring the art of creating womenswear in three dimensions to life.
An introduction to the basic principles of pattern cutting, this practical book shows students how to interpret the human form and look at clothing through the eyes of a designer rather than a consumer. As well as explaining the proportions of human anatomy, the book introduces key tools and then takes the reader from simple pattern-cutting ideas to more advanced creative methods. Finally, the book looks at the work of fashion designers who are masters of pattern cutting, such as Comme des GarCons, John Galliano, Yohji Yamamoto and Issey Miyake. With photographs of final and dissected garments, along with CAD/CAM diagrams to explain how those pieces were cut, the book will gradually build an understanding of pattern cutting, and enable students to experiment and create exciting patterns for their own designs.
This text combines step-by-step instructions illustrated to present the principles and methods of draping. Author Helen Joseph-Armstrong incorporates three draping techniques—manipulating dart excess, adding fullness, and contour draping—in design projects featured throughout the text. Projects begin with a draping plan and fashion drawing to identify its creative elements, and determine the draping technique required. The author describes the drape of the basic dress and its relationship to every garment in a clothing collection, emphasizing the drape of foundation garments as a base to building more complex design.
