The objective of this dissertation is to develop numerical models and compare their predictions with data acquired during the DUCK94 experiment in order to improve our physical understanding of the hydrodynamic processes governing the vertical and cross shore distributions of both longshore and cross shore currents over a barred beach. The vertical structure of the mean longshore current is found to be well described by a logarithmic profile and a relationship between bed shear stress and bottom roughness, including the influence of ripples and mega-ripples, was also found. The vertical structure of the mean cross shore current (undertow) is modeled using an eddy viscosity closure scheme to solve for the turbulent shear stress and includes contributions from breaking wave rollers. These models of the vertical profiles of longshore and cross shore mean currents are combined to formulate a quasi three dimensional model to describe the cross shore distribution of the longshore current. This model includes turbulent mixing due to the cross shore advection of mean momentum of the longshore current by the mean cross shore current and contributions from wave rollers.
This thoroughly revised and expanded edition of the much acclaimed Encyclopedia of Coastal Science edited by M. Schwarz (Springer 2005), presents an interdisciplinary approach that includes biology, ecology, engineering, geology, geomorphology, oceanography, remote sensing, technological advances, and anthropogenic impacts on coasts. Within its covers the Encyclopedia of Coastal Science, 2nd ed. brings together and coordinates many aspects of coastal and related sciences that are widely dispersed in the scientific literature. The broadly interdisciplinary subject matter of this volume features contributions by over 280 well-known international specialists in their respective fields and provides an abundance of figures in full-color with line drawings and photographs, and other illustrations such as satellite images. Not only does this volume offer a large number of new and revised entries, it also includes an illustrated glossary of coastal geomorphology, extensive bibliographic citations, and cross-references. It provides a comprehensive reference work for students, scientific and technical professionals as well as administrators, managers, and informed lay readers. Reviews from the first edition: Awarded for Excellence in Scholarly and Professional Publishing: “Honorable Mention”, in the category Single Volume/Science from the Association of American Publishers (AAP) 2005. "The contents and approach are interdisciplinary and, under a single cover, one finds subjects normally scattered throughout scientific literature." "The topics cover a broad spectrum, so does the geographic range of the contributors. ... besides geomorphologists, biologists, ecologists, engineers, geographers, geologists, oceanographers and technologists will find information related to their respective fields ... . Inclusion of appendices ... is very useful. The illustrated glossary of geomorphology will prove very useful for many of us ... ." Roger H. Charlier, Journal of Coastal Research, Volume 21, Issue 4, Page 866, July 2005. "It is an excellent work that should be included in any carefully selected list of best science reference books of the year "Summing Up: Highly recommended. " M.L. Larsgaard, Choice, Volume 43, Issue 6, Page 989, February 2006. "This volume is a comprehensive collection of articles covering all aspects of the subject: social and economic, engineering, coastal processes, habitats, erosion, geological features, research and observation." ... "As with similar works reviewed, I chose to read articles on familiar topics to see if they covered the expected, and some on unfamiliar topics to see if they could be readily understood. The book passed both tests, but the style is denser and more fact-filled than most of the encyclopedias I have reviewed." John Goodier, Reference Reviews, Volume 20, Issue 2, pages 35-36, 2006
Grounded in current research, this second edition has been thoroughly updated, featuring new topics, global examples and online material. Written for students studying coastal geomorphology, this is the complete guide to the processes at work on our coastlines and the features we see in coastal systems across the world.
Environmental information is important for successful planning and execution of naval operations. A thorough understanding of environmental variability greatly increases the likelihood of mission success. To ensure that naval forces have the most up-to-date capabilities, the Office of Naval Research (ONR) has an extensive environmental research program. This research, to be of greatest use to the warfighter, needs to be directed towards assisting and solving battlefield problems. To increase research community understanding of the operational demands placed on naval operators and to facilitate discussion between these two groups, the National Research Council's (NRC) Ocean Studies Board (OSB), working with ONR and the Office of the Oceanographer of the Navy, convened five previous symposia on tactical oceanography. Oceanography and Mine Warfare examines the following issues: (1) how environmental data are used in current mine warfare doctrine, (2) current procedures for in situ collection of data, (3) the present capabilities of the Navy's oceanographic community to provide supporting information for mine warfare operations, and (4) the ability of oceanographic research and technology developments to enhance current mine warfare capabilities. This report primarily concentrates on the importance of oceanographic data for mine countermeasures.
Introduction to Geophysical Fluid Dynamics provides an introductory-level exploration of geophysical fluid dynamics (GFD), the principles governing air and water flows on large terrestrial scales. Physical principles are illustrated with the aid of the simplest existing models, and the computer methods are shown in juxtaposition with the equations to which they apply. It explores contemporary topics of climate dynamics and equatorial dynamics, including the Greenhouse Effect, global warming, and the El Nino Southern Oscillation. - Combines both physical and numerical aspects of geophysical fluid dynamics into a single affordable volume - Explores contemporary topics such as the Greenhouse Effect, global warming and the El Nino Southern Oscillation - Biographical and historical notes at the ends of chapters trace the intellectual development of the field - Recipient of the 2010 Wernaers Prize, awarded each year by the National Fund for Scientific Research of Belgium (FNR-FNRS)
The Intergovernmental Panel on Climate Change (IPCC) is the leading international body for assessing the science related to climate change. It provides policymakers with regular assessments of the scientific basis of human-induced climate change, its impacts and future risks, and options for adaptation and mitigation. This IPCC Special Report on the Ocean and Cryosphere in a Changing Climate is the most comprehensive and up-to-date assessment of the observed and projected changes to the ocean and cryosphere and their associated impacts and risks, with a focus on resilience, risk management response options, and adaptation measures, considering both their potential and limitations. It brings together knowledge on physical and biogeochemical changes, the interplay with ecosystem changes, and the implications for human communities. It serves policymakers, decision makers, stakeholders, and all interested parties with unbiased, up-to-date, policy-relevant information. This title is also available as Open Access on Cambridge Core.
This book is intended as a useful handbook for professionals and researchers in the areas of Physical Oceanography, Marine Geology, Coastal Geomorphology and Coastal Engineering and as a text for graduate students in these fields. With its emphasis on boundary layer flow and basic sediment transport modelling, it is meant to help fill the gap between general hydrodynamic texts and descriptive texts on marine and coastal sedimentary processes. The book commences with a review of coastal bottom boundary layer flows including the boundary layer interaction between waves and steady currents. The concept of eddy viscosity for these flows is discussed in depth because of its relation to sediment diffusivity. The quasi-steady processes of sediment transport over flat beds are discussed. Small scale coastal bedforms and the corresponding hydraulic roughness are described. The motion of suspended sand particles is studied in detail with emphasis on the possible suspension maintaining mechanisms in coastal flows. Sediment pickup functions are provided for unsteady flows. A new combined convection-diffusion model is provided for suspended sediment distributions. Different methods of sediment transport model building are presented together with some classical models.
This Proceedings contains 445 papers presented at the 30th International Conference on Coastal Engineering, which was held in San Diego, California, USA, 3-8 September 2006. The Proceedings is divided into five parts: Waves; Swash, Nearshore Currents, and Long Waves; Coastal Management, Risk, and Ecosystem Restoration; Sediment Transport and Morphology; and Coastal Structures. The individual papers cover a broad range of topics including theory, numerical and physical modeling, field measurements, case studies, design, and management. These papers provide engineers, scientists, and planners state-of-the-art information on coastal engineering and coastal processes.
This new Encyclopedia of Coastal Science stands as the latest authoritative source in the field of coastal studies, making it the standard reference work for specialists and the interested lay person. Unique in its interdisciplinary approach. This Encyclopedia features contributions by 245 well-known international specialists in their respective fields and is abundantly illustrated with line-drawings and photographs. Not only does this volume offer an extensive number of entries, it also includes various appendices, an illustrated glossary of coastal morphology and extensive bibliographic listings.
