The International System of Garment Cutting
Author: J. P. Thornton
Publisher:
Published: 1911
Total Pages: 418
ISBN-13:
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Cutting for All!
Author: Kevin L. Seligman
Publisher: SIU Press
Published: 1996
Total Pages: 380
ISBN-13: 9780809320066
DOWNLOAD EBOOKContaining 2,729 entries, Kevin L. Seligman’s bibliography concentrates on books, manuals, journals, and catalogs covering a wide range of sartorial approaches over nearly five hundred years. After a historical overview, Seligman approaches his subject chronologically, listing items by century through 1799, then by decade. In this section, he deals with works on flat patterning, draping, grading, and tailoring techniques as well as on such related topics as accessories, armor, civil costumes, clerical costumes, dressmakers’ systems, fur, gloves, leather, military uniforms, and undergarments. Seligman then devotes a section to those American and English journals published for the professional tailor and dressmaker. Here, too, he includes the related areas of fur and undergarments. A section devoted to journal articles features selected articles from costume- and noncostumerelated professional journals and periodicals. The author breaks these articles down into three categories: American, English, and other. Seligman then devotes separate sections to other related areas, providing alphabetical listings of books and professional journals for costume and dance, dolls, folk and national dress, footwear, millinery, and wigmaking and hair. A section devoted to commercial pattern companies, periodicals, and catalogs is followed by an appendix covering pattern companies, publishers, and publications. In addition to full bibliographic notation, Seligman provides a library call number and library location if that information is available. The majority of the listings are annotated. Each listing is coded for identification and cross-referencing. An author index, a title index, a subject index, and a chronological index will guide readers to the material they want. Seligman’s historical review of the development of publications on the sartorial arts, professional journals, and the commercial paper pattern industry puts the bibliographical material into context. An appendix provides a cross-reference guide for research on American and English pattern companies, publishers, and publications. Given the size and scope of the bibliography, there is no other reference work even remotely like it.
Thornton International System of Garment Cutting
Author: J. P. Thornton
Publisher: Hansebooks
Published: 2020-08-21
Total Pages: 406
ISBN-13: 9783337866150
DOWNLOAD EBOOKThornton International System of Garment Cutting is an unchanged, high-quality reprint of the original edition of 1885. Hansebooks is editor of the literature on different topic areas such as research and science, travel and expeditions, cooking and nutrition, medicine, and other genres. As a publisher we focus on the preservation of historical literature. Many works of historical writers and scientists are available today as antiques only. Hansebooks newly publishes these books and contributes to the preservation of literature which has become rare and historical knowledge for the future.
A Tailoring Guide to Pattern Drafting
Author: Katerina Lawton
Publisher: Taylor & Francis
Published: 2023-07-31
Total Pages: 266
ISBN-13: 1000866084
DOWNLOAD EBOOKA Tailoring Guide to Pattern Drafting offers pattern drafting instructions for men’s most popular tailored garment styles from 1850 to 1900, used in theatres and film productions today. The book features a wide range of 19th-century garments, providing information and detailed instructions on the frock coat, morning coat, lounge jacket, smoking jacket, shirt, waistcoats, trousers and long-riding breeches. It includes a brief history of each garment, accompanied by colourful illustrations and easy-to-follow instruction to draft historical 19th-century silhouettes for modern performances. The book features: A brief history of each garment, accompanied by full-colour illustrations. Modern step-by-step instructions with clear diagrams to draft 19th-century menswear. Instructions incorporating both the imperial and metric systems. Recommendations on choosing the appropriate modern-day equivalent fabric. Recommendations on the quantity of the fabric. Recommendations on the button size to make the garment appear more authentic. A table of Dress Code Ethics for Gentlemen from 1850 to 1900. Descriptions and visual information on how to take accurate measurements. Photographs of costumes and images of the 19th-century Carte de Visite for visual support. A Tailoring Guide to Pattern Drafting is intended for anyone with a desire to learn or refine their costume-cutting skills for theatre and film production. The book is aimed at undergraduate and graduate students, tutors and both amateur and professional makers interested in the subject. To access the author’s YouTube channel, featuring 130 step-by-step lessons to make a 19th-century Morning Coat using classical tailoring techniques, visit www.routledge.com/9780367265335.
Sizing in Clothing
Author: S Ashdown
Publisher: Elsevier
Published: 2007-04-11
Total Pages: 407
ISBN-13: 1845692586
DOWNLOAD EBOOKThe basic concepts behind sizing systems currently used in the manufacture of ready-to-wear garments were originally developed in the 19th century. These systems are frequently based on outdated anthropometric data, they lack standard labelling, and they generally do not accommodate the wide variations of body sizes and proportions that exist in the population. However, major technological improvements have made new population data available worldwide, with the potential to affect the future of sizing in many ways. New developments in computer-aided design and sophisticated mathematical and statistical methods of categorizing different body shapes can also contribute to the development of more effective sizing systems. This important book provides a critical appreciation of the key technological and scientific developments in sizing and their application.The first chapter in the book discusses the history of sizing systems and how this has affected the mass production of ready-to-wear clothing. Chapters two and three review methods for constructing new and adapting existing sizing systems, and the standardisation of national and international sizing systems. Marketing and fit models are reviewed in chapter four whilst chapter five presents an analysis of the grading process used to create size sets. Chapters six and seven discuss fit and sizing strategies in relation to function, and the communication of sizing. Mass customization and a discussion of material properties and their affect on sizing are addressed in chapters eight and nine. Military sizing and the aesthetics of sizing are detailed in chapters ten and eleven. The final chapter reviews the impact on sizing of production systems and specifications.Written by an international team of contributors, this book is an essential reference to researchers, designers, students and manufacturers in the clothing and fashion industry. - Provides a critical appreciation of key technological and scientific developments in sizing and their application - Discusses how developments in sizing affect the mass production of ready to wear clothing - Reviews methods of constructing new and adapting existing sizing systems
Dressing Global Bodies
Author: Beverly Lemire
Publisher: Routledge
Published: 2019-11-19
Total Pages: 345
ISBN-13: 1351028723
DOWNLOAD EBOOKDressing Global Bodies addresses the complex politics of dress and fashion from a global perspective spanning four centuries, tying the early global to more contemporary times, to reveal clothing practice as a key cultural phenomenon and mechanism of defining one’s identity. This collection of essays explores how garments reflect the hierarchies of value, collective and personal inclinations, religious norms and conversions. Apparel is now recognized for its seminal role in global, colonial and post-colonial engagements and for its role in personal and collective expression. Patterns of exchange and commerce are discussed by contributing authors to analyse powerful and diverse colonial and postcolonial practices. This volume rejects assumptions surrounding a purportedly all-powerful Western metropolitan fashion system and instead aims to emphasize how diverse populations seized agency through the fashioning of dress. Dressing Global Bodies contributes to a growing scholarship considering gender and race, place and politics through the close critical analysis of dress and fashion; it is an indispensable volume for students of history and especially those interested in fashion, textiles, material culture and the body across a wide time frame.
Wearable Objects and Curative Things
Author: Dawn Woolley
Publisher: Springer Nature
Published: 2023-11-28
Total Pages: 354
ISBN-13: 3031400178
DOWNLOAD EBOOKThis book explores the intersections between wearable objects and human health, with particular emphasis on how artists and designers are creatively responding to and rethinking these relations. Addressing a rich range of wearable artefacts, from mobility aids and prosthetics to clothing and accessories to digital health tracking devices, its themes include care and cure; wellness culture and the commoditization of health; and the complex interactions between (human) bodies and (non-human) objects. With a theoretical framework inspired by the work of materialist thinkers including Sherry Turkle, Bruno Latour and Jane Bennett, and bringing the disciplinary fields of fashion studies, art and design practice, and medical and health humanities into dialogue for the first time, this volume draws attention to the complex agencies entangled in the things we wear, and situates fashion and art in relation to broader cultural and historical contexts of health, illness and disability.
The Waistcoat Workbook
Author: J. François-Campbell
Publisher: CRC Press
Published: 2024-02-23
Total Pages: 457
ISBN-13: 1003836615
DOWNLOAD EBOOKThe Waistcoat Workbook: Historical, Modern, and Genre Drafting of Waistcoats for Men and Women 1837–Present Day provides comprehensive coverage of the design, construction, and role of waistcoats from the reign of Queen Victoria to the present day in the United Kingdom. The book contains step-by-step instructions on how to draft the garments onto pattern paper from start to finish with drafting tools, including diagrams and detailed instructions on what measurements are required and how to record the information. The book also features: A brief history of waistcoats in European, and particularly British history, highlighting key points in the evolution of the garment A discussion of fabrics that would be suitable to use for the garments and what kind of interlinings and linings are best suited, depending on the main fabric chosen for the front of the garment Information on how to deal with one and two-way fabrics and challenging materials, as well as fabric analysis and pressing techniques Step-by-step instructions to construct genre waistcoats, including cosplay and Steampunk clothing Industry terminology and suppliers and stockists The Waistcoat Workbook is an excellent resource for professional film and theatre costume makers and tailors, students of costume and fashion design, and makers in cosplay, Steampunk, and re-enactment fields.
How to Make A Mao Suit
Author: Antonia Finnane
Publisher: Cambridge University Press
Published: 2023-07-31
Total Pages: 387
ISBN-13: 1009359959
DOWNLOAD EBOOKRevisionist history of the transformation of clothing in China during the Mao years, 1949-1976.
Uniform
Author: Jane Tynan
Publisher: Bloomsbury Publishing
Published: 2019-08-08
Total Pages: 321
ISBN-13: 135004556X
DOWNLOAD EBOOKUniform: Clothing and Discipline in the Modern World examines the role uniform plays in public life and private experience. This volume explores the social, political, economic, and cultural significance of various kinds of uniforms to consider how they embody gender, class, sexuality, race, nationality, and belief. From the pageantry of uniformed citizens to the rationalizing of time and labour, this category of dress has enabled distinct forms of social organization, sometimes repressive, sometimes utopian. With thematic sections on the social meaning of uniform in the military, in institutions, and political movements, its use in fashion, in the workplace, and at leisure, a series of case studies consider what sartorial uniformity means to the history of the body and society. Ranging from English public school uniform to sacred dress in the Vatican, from Australian airline uniforms to the garb worn by soldiers in combat, Uniform draws attention to a visual and material practice with the power to regulate or disrupt civil society. Bringing together original research from emerging and established academics, this book is essential reading for students and scholars of fashion, design, art, popular culture, anthropology, cultural history, and sociology, as well as anyone interested in what constitutes a "modern" appearance.
