Water Waves: The Mathematical Theory with Applications

Water Waves: The Mathematical Theory with Applications

Author: James Johnston Stoker

Publisher: Courier Dover Publications

Published: 2019-04-17

Total Pages: 593

ISBN-13: 0486839923

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First published in 1957, this is a classic monograph in the area of applied mathematics. It offers a connected account of the mathematical theory of wave motion in a liquid with a free surface and subjected to gravitational and other forces, together with applications to a wide variety of concrete physical problems. A never-surpassed text, it remains of permanent value to a wide range of scientists and engineers concerned with problems in fluid mechanics. The four-part treatment begins with a presentation of the derivation of the basic hydrodynamic theory for non-viscous incompressible fluids and a description of the two principal approximate theories that form the basis for the rest of the book. The second section centers on the approximate theory that results from small-amplitude wave motions. A consideration of problems involving waves in shallow water follows, and the text concludes with a selection of problems solved in terms of the exact theory. Despite the diversity of its topics, this text offers a unified, readable, and largely self-contained treatment.


Water Wave Mechanics For Engineers And Scientists

Water Wave Mechanics For Engineers And Scientists

Author: Robert G Dean

Publisher: World Scientific Publishing Company

Published: 1991-01-23

Total Pages: 369

ISBN-13: 9814365696

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This book is intended as an introduction to classical water wave theory for the college senior or first year graduate student. The material is self-contained; almost all mathematical and engineering concepts are presented or derived in the text, thus making the book accessible to practicing engineers as well.The book commences with a review of fluid mechanics and basic vector concepts. The formulation and solution of the governing boundary value problem for small amplitude waves are developed and the kinematic and pressure fields for short and long waves are explored. The transformation of waves due to variations in depth and their interactions with structures are derived. Wavemaker theories and the statistics of ocean waves are reviewed. The application of the water particle motions and pressure fields are applied to the calculation of wave forces on small and large objects. Extension of the linear theory results to several nonlinear wave properties is presented. Each chapter concludes with a set of homework problems exercising and sometimes extending the material presented in the chapter. An appendix provides a description of nine experiments which can be performed, with little additional equipment, in most wave tank facilities.


The Water Waves Problem

The Water Waves Problem

Author: David Lannes

Publisher: American Mathematical Soc.

Published: 2013-05-08

Total Pages: 347

ISBN-13: 0821894706

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This monograph provides a comprehensive and self-contained study on the theory of water waves equations, a research area that has been very active in recent years. The vast literature devoted to the study of water waves offers numerous asymptotic models.


Swell

Swell

Author: Evan Slater

Publisher: Chronicle Books

Published: 2012-05-09

Total Pages: 148

ISBN-13: 1452105936

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Wave watchers around the world know that no two waves are the same. Yet each and every wave that rises, peaks, and crashes onto the beach is generated by a much larger force originating thousands of miles away. Surf journalist team Evan Slater and Peter Taras capture the essence of waves and the swells that produce them in this breathtaking collection of wave photography. Slater characterizes four distinct swells from different corners of the globe and traces their journeys throughout the year from storm to seashore. His reflective, informative essays amplify these powerful images of hundreds of waves frozen in time, beautiful, simple, universal, yet wholly unique—and the best thing to watch on the planet.


Lectures on the Theory of Water Waves

Lectures on the Theory of Water Waves

Author: Thomas J. Bridges

Publisher: Cambridge University Press

Published: 2016-02-04

Total Pages: 299

ISBN-13: 1107565561

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A range of experts contribute introductory-level lectures on active topics in the theory of water waves.


Ocean Waves and Oscillating Systems

Ocean Waves and Oscillating Systems

Author: Johannes Falnes

Publisher: Cambridge University Press

Published: 2020-05-28

Total Pages: 319

ISBN-13: 1108481663

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Understand the absorption of energy from ocean waves by means of oscillating systems with this useful new edition. Essential for engineers, researchers, and graduate students, and an indispensable tool for those who work in this field.


Waves in Oceanic and Coastal Waters

Waves in Oceanic and Coastal Waters

Author: Leo H. Holthuijsen

Publisher: Cambridge University Press

Published: 2010-02-04

Total Pages: 9

ISBN-13: 1139462520

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Waves in Oceanic and Coastal Waters describes the observation, analysis and prediction of wind-generated waves in the open ocean, in shelf seas, and in coastal regions with islands, channels, tidal flats and inlets, estuaries, fjords and lagoons. Most of this richly illustrated book is devoted to the physical aspects of waves. After introducing observation techniques for waves, both at sea and from space, the book defines the parameters that characterise waves. Using basic statistical and physical concepts, the author discusses the prediction of waves in oceanic and coastal waters, first in terms of generalised observations, and then in terms of the more theoretical framework of the spectral energy balance. He gives the results of established theories and also the direction in which research is developing. The book ends with a description of SWAN (Simulating Waves Nearshore), the preferred computer model of the engineering community for predicting waves in coastal waters.


Water Waves and Ship Hydrodynamics

Water Waves and Ship Hydrodynamics

Author: A.J. Hermans

Publisher: Springer Science & Business Media

Published: 2010-10-21

Total Pages: 177

ISBN-13: 9400700962

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In this book an introduction is given to aspects of water waves that play a role in ship hydrodynamics and offshore engineering. At first the equations and linearized boundary conditions are derived describing the non-viscous free surface water waves, with special attention to the combination of steady and non-steady flow fields. Then some simple kinds of free wave solutions are derived, such as plane waves and cylindrical waves. For several situations, steady and unsteady, the source singularity function is derived. These functions play a role in numerical codes used to describe the motion of ships and offshore structures. These codes are mostly based on a boundary integral formulation; therefore we give an introduction to these methods. It is shown how first order ship motions can be determined. In offshore engineering the second order wave drift motions play an important role. An introduction to this phenomenon is given and the effects which have to be taken into account are explained by means of a simple example where we can determine nearly all the aspects analytically. An interesting example that is worked out is the motion of very large floating flexible platforms with finite draft. Finally an introduction to the theory of shallow water non-linear dispersive waves is presented, and shallow water ship hydrodynamics, that plays a role in coastal areas and channels is treated. Here attention is paid to the interaction between passing ships in restricted water. In the appendix a short introduction to some of the mathematical tools is given.


Annie and the Waves

Annie and the Waves

Author: Louise Lambeth

Publisher: Publicious Pty Limited

Published: 2020-02-03

Total Pages: 42

ISBN-13: 9780648435709

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Annie and the Waves is a book aimed to teach children and their caregivers about how to stay safe at the beach. As you read this book you will learn: Surf lifesavers wear red and yellow You should always swim between the red and yellow flags Some beaches are safer than others There are different kinds of waves, some are safer than others If you get into trouble, stay calm and raise your hand to show the surf lifesavers you need help. Be sun safe at the beach. Wear a hat and a rashie and don't forget to put on sunscreen before you go out in the sun And..... You should never go into the water alone!