Bespoke

Bespoke

Author: Richard Anderson

Publisher: Simon and Schuster

Published: 2009-10-29

Total Pages: 342

ISBN-13: 1847378765

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This is the true-life story of a boy who quit school to become an apprentice on Savile Row, home to London's most venerable tailors, and wound up owning his own shop on the world-famous 'Golden Mile', where he hand-cuts exquisite suits for a clientele including royalty, politicians, literati, business tycoons, and media stars. On a bright, bitterly cold and snowy morning in January 1982, 17-year-old Richard Anderson made his way with his father to an interview at Savile Row's illustrious Henry Huntsman & Sons. They were late, but Richard got the job, with its meagre salary of only £2,000 a year, and his life was changed forever. Huntsman was arguably the world's most prestigious tailoring house, and Richard's apprenticeship proved a humbling ordeal overseen by three titans of the trade: the formidably debonair Colin Hammick, fellow chain-smoker and grumpy eccentric Brian Hall, and Dick Lakey, the company's heroically overworked 'leg man'. Training under these men in the arcane art of making trousers and coats that could cost as much as £10,000 was an inspiring but also gruelling game, yet 'Young Richard' persisted for 17 more years of rigorous practice in perfectionism and prestige - to become, at 34, the youngest head cutter in Huntsman's 150-year history. Witty and told with great candour, Bespoke is a fascinating behind-the-scenes exposé of life on Savile Row from one of the world's most celebrated and successful tailors.


House of Nutter

House of Nutter

Author: Lance Richardson

Publisher: Random House

Published: 2018-05-10

Total Pages: 488

ISBN-13: 1473546648

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A wildly entertaining biography of the British fashion designer who set the trends for rock royalty from the Beatles to Mick Jagger to Elton John. Tommy Nutter was a visionary tailor in the bespoke tradition who dressed everybody from Lord Montagu of Beaulieu to Twiggy, who outfitteds three of the Beatles for the cover of Abbey Road (George Harrison preferred jeans), who put Mick Jagger in a white suit for his wedding to Bianca and who dressed Elton John for years, using the singer as his muse for his signature outrageous style. Nutter was alluring for his ambiguity -- a chameleon who could rub shoulders with Princess Margaret and then dance with the drag queens at Last Resort -- and his clothes were the physical expression of a sharp, audacious wit. House of Nutter charts Tommy Nutter’s dramatic career that spanned barely 23 years, ending in 1992 with his untimely death. It is a history of London during an era of economic and cultural upheaval, a celebration of the methods and traditions of Savile Row; and an elegy for what was lost during the worst days of the HIV/AIDS epidemic. With archival access to photos, letters and interviews from Tommy Nutter's sole living relative, his brother, David, Lance Richardson takes us behind the '70s glamour to explore the public face and private life of one of Britain's most respected yet rule-breaking bespoke clothiers and the celebrities he dressed.


The Suit

The Suit

Author: Christopher Breward

Publisher: Reaktion Books

Published: 2016-04-15

Total Pages: 241

ISBN-13: 1780235585

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A beautifully tailored history of this fashion staple—at once a garment of tradition, power, and subversion. The Suit unpicks the story of this most familiar garment, from its emergence in western Europe at the end of the seventeenth century to today. Suit-wearing figures such as the Savile Row gentleman and the Wall Street businessman have long embodied ideas of tradition, masculinity, power, and respectability, but the suit has also been used to disrupt concepts of gender and conformity. Adopted and subverted by women, artists, musicians, and social revolutionaries through the decades—from dandies and Sapeurs to the Zoot Suit and Le Smoking—the suit is also a device for challenging the status quo. For all those interested in the history of menswear, this beautifully illustrated book offers new perspectives on this most mundane, and poetic, product of modern culture.


Pattern Cutting Techniques for Ladies' Jackets

Pattern Cutting Techniques for Ladies' Jackets

Author: Jo Baker-Waters

Publisher: The Crowood Press

Published: 2016-08-31

Total Pages: 575

ISBN-13: 1785001787

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Pattern Cutting Techniques for Ladies' Jackets shares the trade secrets from the world of bespoke tailoring and haute couture, alongside procedures from the ready-to-wear industry. Written by a trained Savile Row tailor working in the fashion industry, it explains how to make a basic pattern for a jacket by flat pattern cutting or draping on the dress form. It introduces a broad range of techniques with clear detailed instructions, and emphasizes the importance of an individual and creative approach. It includes patterns for basic block, single- and double-breasted blazers, and the tuxedo with sleeves and button variations, as well as instruction for style adjustments. It also advises on how to take measurements, fit jackets and make alterations, and is fully illustrated with over 400 patterns, diagrams and photographs. Essential reading for designers, students, pattern makers and enthusiasts wanting to develop their skills for designing and cutting stylish tailored jackets. Superbly illustrated with 315 colour images and charts, 50 quarter scale flat patterns, 12 full size templates.


Savile Row

Savile Row

Author: James Sherwood

Publisher:

Published: 2010

Total Pages: 0

ISBN-13: 9780500515242

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Here is the definitive story of Savile Row, the internationally renowned epicentre of gentlemen's style. Introduced by Tom Ford, it is a rich visual history of the street synonymous with elegance, sophistication and timeless attitudes. Including rare archival material and previously unpublished images, alongside specially commissioned photography and fashion shoots, this lavish celebration brings together the Row's tailors, the personalities, the dramas and private tales, the suits and their accoutrements, the fabrics and the cuts, as never before. An exclusive bonus section offers a complete resource for anyone wishing to have a suit made.


The Parisian Gentleman

The Parisian Gentleman

Author: Hugo Jacomet

Publisher: National Geographic Books

Published: 2018-11-13

Total Pages: 0

ISBN-13: 0500293961

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In a new compact edition, a luxurious celebration of the elegant craftsmanship behind the timeless French men’s fashion and lifestyle labels. Home of haute couture and the world’s leading fashion houses, Paris and its inhabitants represent sophistication and refinement to the rest of the world. Debonair Parisian men continue to participate in a centuries-long tradition of sartorial craftsmanship and quality. In its newly accessible compact edition, The Parisian Gentleman is like a dream shopping excursion to the leading men’s style-makers, from hidden ateliers and little- known studios to internationally renowned labels such as shirtmakers Charvet, shoemakers Berluti, and the recently revived trunk-makers Moynat. The stories behind each house, and the creative minds and artisans who give each brand its unique identity, bring the clothes alive, capturing an unceasing dedication to quality in an era overrun with new, mass-produced trends. Author Hugo Jacomet’s portraits of these often-inaccessible marques (or brands) are intimate and illuminating, thanks to his personal connections to many of the leading figures. His text is accompanied by beautifully shot photographs of the designers, studios, garments, and locations, the majority of which were taken exclusively for this book.


Churchill Style

Churchill Style

Author: Barry Singer

Publisher: ABRAMS

Published: 2012-05-01

Total Pages: 709

ISBN-13: 1613122853

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A look at the towering twentieth-century leader and his lifestyle that goes beyond the political and into the personal. Countless books have examined the public accomplishments of the man who led Britain in a desperate fight against the Nazis with a ferocity and focus that earned him the nickname “the British Bulldog.” Churchill Style takes a different kind of look at this historic icon—delving into the way he lived and the things he loved, from books to automobiles, as well as how he dressed, dined, and drank in his daily life. With numerous photographs, this unique volume explores Churchill’s interests, hobbies, and vices—from his maddening oversight of the renovation of his country house, Chartwell, and the unusual styles of clothing he preferred, to the seemingly endless flow of cognac and champagne he demanded and his ability to enjoy any cigar, from the cheapest stogies to the most pristine Cubans. Churchill always knew how to live well, truly combining substance with style, and now you can get to know the man behind the legend—from the top of his Homburg hat to the bottom of his velvet slippers. “All readers will appreciate Singer’s highly intelligent observations about how Churchill’s style contributed to, and was ultimately an integral part of his brilliant career.” —Gentleman’s Gazette


Sharp Suits

Sharp Suits

Author: Eric Musgrave

Publisher: Rizzoli Publications

Published: 2019-09-10

Total Pages: 0

ISBN-13: 1911624784

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Clothes maketh the man--discover the fascinating history and evolution of the modern suit from the late 17th century to date. "A fascinating, richly illustrated history of suits." -- Esquire magazine "Few coffee-table books are so beautifully illustrated or as researched." -- GQ magazine For millions of men across the world the common denominator that identifies them is the suit. From eighteenth-century bespoke to the mass industrialization of the 20th-century, we see how the uniform of the ruling classes became the utilitarian outfit of the worker. A series of thematic chapters illustrates how the universal staple of a man's wardrobe can play many different roles and, chameleon-like, can mean different things in different situations. From the Duke of Windsor to The Thin White Duke, David Bowie, from James Brown to "The Godfather," movie stars, rock stars, heroes and villains, philanthropists, presidents, and gangsters have dressed to impress in a matching jacket and trousers, and have found that a suit will suit them very well.


Ooga-Booga

Ooga-Booga

Author: Frederick Seidel

Publisher: Farrar, Straus and Giroux

Published: 2014-09-02

Total Pages: 116

ISBN-13: 1466879785

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From the winner of the PEN/Voelker Award, poems of love, terror, rage, and desire. Here I am, not a practical man, But clear-eyed in my contact lenses, Following no doubt a slightly different line than the others, Seeking sexual pleasure above all else, Despairing of art and of life, Seeking protection from death by seeking it On a racebike, finding release and belief on two wheels . . . --from "The Death of the Shah" The poems in Ooga-Booga are about a youthful slave owner and his aging slave, and both are the same man. This is the tenderest, most savage collection yet from Frederick Seidel, "the most frightening American poet ever" (Calvin Bedient, Boston Review).


Tailoring of the Belle Epoque

Tailoring of the Belle Epoque

Author: William D. F. Vincent

Publisher:

Published: 1991

Total Pages: 316

ISBN-13:

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A reprint of a 1903 tailors' manual with a small amount of supplemental material at the back, primarily period fashion illustrations.