A prominent food scientist defends the use of raw milk in traditional artisan cheesemaking. Raw milk cheese--cheese made from unpasteurized milk--is an expansive category that includes some of Europe's most beloved traditional styles: Parmigiano Reggiano, Gruyère, and Comté, to name a few. In the United States, raw milk cheese forms the backbone of the resurgent artisan cheese industry, as consumers demand local, traditionally produced, and high-quality foods. Internationally award-winning artisan cheeses like Bayley Hazen Blue (Jasper Hill, VT) would have been unimaginable just forty years ago when American cheese meant Kraft Singles. Unfortunately the artisan cheese industry faces an existential regulatory threat. Over the past thirty years the US Food and Drug Administration (FDA) has edged toward an outright ban on raw milk cheeses. Their assault on traditional cheesemaking goes beyond a debate about raw milk safety; the FDA has also attempted to ban the use of wooden boards, the use of ash in cheese ripening, and has set stringent microbiological criteria that many artisan cheeses cannot meet. The David versus Goliath existence of small producers fighting crushing regulations is true in parts of Europe as well, where beloved creameries are going belly-up or being bought out because they can't comply with EU health ordinances. Centuries-old cheese styles like Fourme d'Ambert and Cantal are nearing extinction, leading Prince Charles to decry the "bacteriological correctness" of European regulators. The dirty secret is that Listeria and other bacterial outbreaks occur in pasteurized cheeses more often than in raw milk cheeses, and traditional processes like ash-ripening have been proven safe. In Ending the War on Artisan Cheese, Dr. Catherine Donnelly forcefully defends traditional cheesemaking, while exposing government actions in the United States and abroad designed to take away food choice under the false guise of food safety. This book is fundamentally about where and how our food is produced, the values we place on methods of food production, and how the roles of tradition, heritage, and quality often conflict with advertising, politics, and profits in influencing our food choices.
The key to becoming a successful artisan cheesemaker is to develop the intuition essential for problem solving and developing unique styles of cheeses. There are an increasing number of books on the market about making cheese, but none approaches the intricacies of cheesemaking science alongside considerations for preparing each type of cheese variety in as much detail as Mastering Artisan Cheesemaking. Indeed, this book fills a big hole in the market. Beginner guides leave you wanting more content and explanation of process, while recipe-based cookbooks often fail to dig deeper into the science, and therefore don’t allow for a truly intuitive cheesemaker to develop. Acclaimed cheesemaker Gianaclis Caldwell has written the book she wishes existed when she was starting out. Every serious home-scale artisan cheesemaker—even those just beginning to experiment—will want this book as their bible to take them from their first quick mozzarella to a French mimolette, and ultimately to designing their own unique cheeses. This comprehensive and user-friendly guide thoroughly explains the art and science that allow milk to be transformed into epicurean masterpieces. Caldwell offers a deep look at the history, science, culture, and art of making artisan cheese on a small scale, and includes detailed information on equipment and setting up a home-scale operation. A large part of the book includes extensive process-based recipes dictating not only the hard numbers, but also the concepts behind each style of cheese and everything you want to know about affinage (aging) and using oils, brushes, waxes, infusions, and other creative aging and flavoring techniques. Also included are beautiful photographs, profiles of other cheesemakers, and in-depth appendices for quick reference in the preparation and aging room. Mastering Artisan Cheesemaking will also prove an invaluable resource for those with, or thinking of starting, a small-scale creamery. Let Gianaclis Caldwell be your mentor, guide, and cheering section as you follow the pathway to a mastery of cheesemaking. For the avid home hobbyist to the serious commercial artisan, Mastering Artisan Cheesemaking is an irreplaceable resource.
""The Life of Cheese" is the definitive work on America's artisanal food revolution. Heather Paxson's engaging stories are as rich, sharp, and well-grounded as the product she scrutinizes. A must read for anyone interested in fostering a sustainable food system." Warren Belasco, author of "Meals to Come: A History of the Future of Food" "Heather Paxson's lucid and engaging book, "The Life of Cheese," is a gift to anyone interested in exploring the wonderful and wonderfully complex realities of artisan cheesemaking in the United States. Paxson deftly integrates careful considerations of the importance of sentiment, value and craft to the work of cheesemakers with vivid stories and lush descriptions of their farms, cheese plants and cheese caves. While she beguiles you with the stories and tastes of cheeses from Vermont, Wisconsin and California, she also asks you to envision a post-pastoral ethos in the making. This ethos reconsiders contemporary beliefs about America's food commerce and culture, reimagines our relationship to the natural world, and redefines how we make, eat, and appreciate food. For cheese aficionados, food activists, anthropologists and food scholars alike, reading "The Life of Cheese" will be a transformative experience." Amy Trubek, author of "The Taste of Place: A Cultural Journey into Terroir"
"Cheddar is the world's most ubiquitous and beloved cheese. More than that, cheddar holds a key to understanding our food politics and even our cultural identity. In 'Cheddar', Gordon Edgar (Cheesemonger) traces the unexplored history of cheddar, with both wry humor and an eye toward its future. Cheddar has something to tell us about this country: from the way people rally to certain types of cheddar but not others, to the gradual transformation of a once artisan cheese into big commodity blocks (and back again) and the effect that has had on rural communities. One of the first cheeses to be industrialized, cheddar's progression from farmstead wheels to machine-extruded singles mirrors that of our entire food system. The resurgence of traditional cheesemaking over the last few decades, in turn, speaks to ways that we're redefining how food is produced. Edgar also answers some key questions about cheddar. Is it the most popular cheese in the land? Did England invent it and America cheapen it? Is today's 40-pound block a precursor to Velveeta? You'll find these answers and more in 'Cheddar', a book as thought-provoking as it is entertaining and that reveals what a familiar food has to tell us about ourselves and our culture"--Page 4 of cover.
Behind every traditional type of cheese there is a fascinating story. By examining the role of the cheesemaker throughout world history and by understanding a few basic principles of cheese science and technology, we can see how different cheeses have been shaped by and tailored to their surrounding environment, as well as defined by their social and cultural context. Cheese and Culture endeavors to advance our appreciation of cheese origins by viewing human history through the eyes of a cheese scientist. There is also a larger story to be told, a grand narrative that binds all cheeses together into a single history that started with the discovery of cheese making and that is still unfolding to this day. This book reconstructs that 9000-year story based on the often fragmentary information that we have available. Cheese and Culture embarks on a journey that begins in the Neolithic Age and winds its way through the ensuing centuries to the present. This tour through cheese history intersects with some of the pivotal periods in human prehistory and ancient, classical, medieval, renaissance, and modern history that have shaped western civilization, for these periods also shaped the lives of cheesemakers and the diverse cheeses that they developed. The book offers a useful lens through which to view our twenty-first century attitudes toward cheese that we have inherited from our past, and our attitudes about the food system more broadly. This refreshingly original book will appeal to anyone who loves history, food, and especially good cheese.
A scientific overview of the association of microbes with cheese, through the lens of select cheese varieties that result due to surface mold ripening, internal mold ripening, rind washing, cave aging, or surface smear rind development. Over the past decade, there has been explosive growth in the U.S. artisan cheese industry. The editor, Ms. Donnelly, was involved in developing a comprehensive education curriculum for those new to cheese making, which focused on the science of cheese, principally to promote cheese quality and safety. Many of the chapters in this book focus on aspects of that requisite knowledge. • Explains the process of transformation of milk to cheese and how sensory attributes of cheese are evaluated. • Provides an overview of cheese safety and regulations governing cheese making, both in the US and abroad, to ensure safety. • Explores how the tools of molecular biology provide new insights into the complexity of the microbial biodiversity of cheeses. • Examines the biodiversity of traditional cheeses as a result of traditional practices, and overviews research on the stability of the microbial consortium of select traditional cheese varieties. • Key text for cheese makers, scientists, students, and cheese enthusiasts who wish to expand their knowledge of cheeses and traditional foods.
Offers detailed descriptions of the unique characteristics and tastes of two hundred varieties of cheese in an alphabetical listing that explains how to select the best cheeses, recommended wine pairings, and tips on shopping and storage.
Gourmand Awards winner---Beer category, USA. "Like a lot of cheese experts, I'm convinced that the ultimate companion to cheese is, and always will be, great craft beer. Don't believe me? Try it for yourself. This beautiful, well-researched and tastefully written tome is the perfect accompaniment to your journey. Cheers!"---Greg Koch, CEO & Co-Founder, Stone Brewing Co. / Stone Brewing World Bistro & Gardens "The rise in cheese connoisseurship has coincided with a delicious growth in quality beer appreciation. Janet draws on her keen palate to describe nuances in the many different beer styles and then recommends great cheese partners for each category. Cheese & Beer is an excellent guide that explains how different beers are crafted and what gives these different types their synergies with superior cheeses."---Max McCalman, author, Mastering Cheese Cheese & Beer capitalizes on the rapidly growing audience for craft beer in the U.S. and the enthusiasm these passionate beer fans have for good cheese. Enhanced by the author's reputation as a journalist and cheese authority, the book fills a wide-open niche for consumer guidance in pairing craft beer and cheese. The beer enthusiast who wants to know which cheeses to pair with an IPA, porter or Trappist ale can easily find a recommendation. Each style entry includes: Style Notes: a description of that beer style---what defines it from the brewer's perspective, and what to expect from the beverage in the glass. Beers to Try: Several recommended craft beers in that style, both domestic and imported. Some of the breweries included from across the country are: Boulevard Brewing (Kansas City, MO), Allagash Brewing (Portland, ME), Brooklyn Brewery (Brooklyn, NY), Firestone Walker (Paso Robles CA), Great Divide (Denver, CO), and Rogue Ales (Newport OR). Cheese Affinities: In general terms, what types of cheeses pair well with that style and why. Cheeses to Try: Brief profiles of three well-distributed cheeses (domestic and imported) specifically recommended for that style and why More Cheeses to Try: A list of other cheeses to pair with that beer style—so that every reader should be able to find at least a couple of the recommended cheeses The introductory chapter includes general advice on pairing cheese and beer; and on selecting, storing and presenting cheese. Six themed platters give readers ideas for entertaining with beer and cheese.