The aim of this book is to present selected theoretical topics on ocean wave dynamics, including basic principles and applications in coastal and offshore engineering, all from the deterministic point of view. The bulk of the material deals with the linearized theory.
This book is intended as an introduction to classical water wave theory for the college senior or first year graduate student. The material is self-contained; almost all mathematical and engineering concepts are presented or derived in the text, thus making the book accessible to practicing engineers as well.The book commences with a review of fluid mechanics and basic vector concepts. The formulation and solution of the governing boundary value problem for small amplitude waves are developed and the kinematic and pressure fields for short and long waves are explored. The transformation of waves due to variations in depth and their interactions with structures are derived. Wavemaker theories and the statistics of ocean waves are reviewed. The application of the water particle motions and pressure fields are applied to the calculation of wave forces on small and large objects. Extension of the linear theory results to several nonlinear wave properties is presented. Each chapter concludes with a set of homework problems exercising and sometimes extending the material presented in the chapter. An appendix provides a description of nine experiments which can be performed, with little additional equipment, in most wave tank facilities.
This book is intended as a handbook for professionals and researchers in the areas of Physical Oceanography, Ocean and Coastal Engineering and as a text for graduate students in these fields. It presents a comprehensive study on surface ocean waves induced by wind, including basic mathematical principles, physical description of the observed phenomena, practical forecasting techniques of various wave parameters and applications in ocean and coastal engineering, all from the probabilistic and spectral points of view. The book commences with a description of mechanisms of surface wave generation by wind and its modern modeling techniques. The stochastic and probabilistic terminology is introduced and the basic statistical and spectral properties of ocean waves are developed and discussed in detail. The bulk of material deals with the prediction techniques for waves in deep and coastal waters for simple and complex ocean basins and complex bathymetry. The various prediction methods, currently used in oceanography and ocean engineering, are described and the examples of practical calculations illustrate the basic text. An appendix provides a description of the modern methods of wave measurement, including the remote sensing techniques. Also the wave simulation methods and random data analysis techniques are discussed. In the book a lot of discoveries of the Russian and East European scientists, largely unknown in the Western literature due to the language barrier, are referred to.
This book provides a comprehensive description of the latest theory-supported numerical technologies, as well as scientific and engineering applications for water surface waves. Its contents are crafted to cater to a step-by-step learning of computational wave dynamics and ocean wave modeling. It provides a comprehensive description from underlying theories of free-surface flows, to practical computational applications for coastal and ocean engineering on the basis of computational fluid dynamics (CFD).The text may be used as a textbook for advanced undergraduate students and graduate students to understand the theoretical background of wave computations, and the recent progress of computational techniques for free-surface and interfacial flows, such as Volume of Fluid (VOF), Constrained Interpolation Profile (CIP), Lagrangian Particle (SPH, MPS), Distinct Element (DEM) and Euler-Lagrange Hybrid Methods.It is also suitable for researchers and engineers who wish to apply CFD techniques to ocean modeling and practical coastal problems involving sediment transport, wave-structure interaction and surf zone flows.
This book focuses on: (1) the physics of the fundamental dynamics of fluids and of semi-immersed Lagrangian solid bodies that are responding to wave-induced loads; (2) the scaling of dimensional equations and boundary value problems in order to determine a small dimensionless parameter ε that may be applied to linearize the equations and the boundary value problems so as to obtain a linear system; (3) the replacement of differential and integral calculus with algebraic equations that require only algebraic substitutions instead of differentiations and integrations; and (4) the importance of comparing numerical and analytical computations with data from laboratories and/or nature.
The aim of this book is to present selected theoretical topics on ocean wave dynamics, including basic principles and applications in coastal and offshore engineering, all from the deterministic point of view. The bulk of the material deals with the linearized theory.
This is a three-volume selection of classical papers by Michael Longuet-Higgins, who for many years has been a leading researcher in the fast-developing field of physical oceanography. Some of these papers were first published in scientific journals or in conference proceedings that are now difficult to access. All the papers are characterized by the novelty of their content, and the clarity of their style and exposition. The papers are quite varied in their approach. They range from basic theory and new computational methods to laboratory experiments and field observations. An overall feature is the frequent comparison between theory and experiment and the constant attention to practical applications. Among the many advances and achievements to be found in these three volumes are: the now generally accepted solution to the longstanding problem of how oceanic microseisms can be generated in deep water or near steep coastlines; a theoretical explanation of the strong drifting near the bottom in shallow water; the first introduction of a boundary-integral technique for calculating free surface flows; simple analytic expressions for the form and time-development of plunging breakers; and so on. The book will be of particular interest to advanced students in ocean engineering; also more generally to fluid dynamicists and physical oceanographers concerned with the interaction of the ocean with the atmosphere and with sandy shorelines.
This book presents a theoretical treatment, as well as a summary of practical methods of computation, of the forces and moments that act on marine craft. Its aim is to provide the tools necessary for the prediction or simulation of craft motions in calm water and in waves. In addition to developing the required equations, the author gives relations that permit at least approximate evaluation of the coefficients so that useful results can be obtained. The approach begins with the equations of motion for rigid bodies, relative to fixed- and moving-coordinate systems; then, the hydrodynamic forces are examined, starting with hydrostatics and progressing to the forces on a moving vehicle in calm water and (after a review of water-wave theory) in waves. Several detailed examples are presented, including calculations of hydrostatics, horizontal- and vertical-plane directional stability, and wave-induced motions. Also included are unique discussions on various effects, such as fin-hull interactions, numerical stability of integrators, heavy torpedoes, and the dynamics of high-speed craft. The book is intended to be an introductory-level graduate text and a reference for the practicing professional.
This book was published in 2004. The Interaction of Ocean Waves and Wind describes in detail the two-way interaction between wind and ocean waves and shows how ocean waves affect weather forecasting on timescales of 5 to 90 days. Winds generate ocean waves, but at the same time airflow is modified due to the loss of energy and momentum to the waves; thus, momentum loss from the atmosphere to the ocean depends on the state of the waves. This volume discusses ocean wave evolution according to the energy balance equation. An extensive overview of nonlinear transfer is given, and as a by-product the role of four-wave interactions in the generation of extreme events, such as freak waves, is discussed. Effects on ocean circulation are described. Coupled ocean-wave, atmosphere modelling gives improved weather and wave forecasts. This volume will interest ocean wave modellers, physicists and applied mathematicians, and engineers interested in shipping and coastal protection.