The Average Surfer's Guide

The Average Surfer's Guide

Author: Simon Short

Publisher: Createspace Independent Publishing Platform

Published: 2018-11-14

Total Pages: 148

ISBN-13: 9781985861886

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"Heart warming read that discusses depression, radical life change, and muses on the plight of the lifelong intermediate... grab a copy on Amazon" - David Lee Scales, Surf Splendor Podcast "I can recommend this book for non-surfers as much as surfers. It goes a long way towards explaining the hook that keeps people addicted to surfing and provides some personal lessons that can be applied to all walks of life" - Charlie Spurr - The Museum of British Surfing "Once I started reading, I couldn't put it down. The writing is wonderful and Simon really nails it when he defines what an average surfer is and how surfing affects us all" - Imi Barneaud, The Ocean Riders Podcast "Short uses the term "average" not as in mediocre, but to make it relatable to the masses of surfers who are not professionals, and not beginners, but the wave-riders in between. He teaches life lessons with every chapter. You can be scared, intimidated, proud and brave, all in one session" - The Orange County Register From the author of "A Story about Surfing, Identity and Depression" comes the #1 New Release 'The Average Surfer's Guide' The Average Surfer's Guide to Travel, Waves and Progression is a book about surfing as much as it is about mental health, life balance and prioritizing one's passions. The author explores the metaphysical effects of surfing, the biological effects of surfing and how the sport, percolated into a lifestyle opens us up to travel, adventure, community and a true belonging and identity. The book takes us into situations that many are familiar with, but few of us speak of. Short bravely shares details from his darker days fighting a severe depression before learning some valuable life lessons. "Simon Short sat at the end of a Newport Beach rock jetty in the darkness, clutching a gun and ready to end his life as his depression hit an all-time low. For years, Short thought he was on the right track. The surfer from England moved to California after visiting for a surf trip in his early 20s, met a girl who became his wife and had a career as a police officer near Palm Springs. This was what he was supposed to do, right? When it all came crashing down a few years later, he found himself staring out into the ocean, the place that had been his one constant source of solace since he was a teen." Feb 2019 - The OC Register The Average Surfer's Guide takes a unique approach by forgetting the glamour of professional surfing and telling honest, humorous and engaging stories from a true, every-day, average surfer. The book teaches us how to progress away from complacency, both in our surfing and our everyday lives. In the end, this book will make you a better surfer. Not through technique but through teaching a new mindset and outlook towards life and surfing. The Average Surfer's Guide takes us on a journey from dark to light and teaches us how to live a true, balanced life that is authentic to who we are and what makes us happy. In this case, surfing.


Barbarian Days

Barbarian Days

Author: William Finnegan

Publisher: Penguin

Published: 2016-04-26

Total Pages: 466

ISBN-13: 0143109391

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**Winner of the 2016 Pulitzer Prize for Autobiography** Included in President Obama’s 2016 Summer Reading List “Without a doubt, the finest surf book I’ve ever read . . . ” —The New York Times Magazine Barbarian Days is William Finnegan’s memoir of an obsession, a complex enchantment. Surfing only looks like a sport. To initiates, it is something else: a beautiful addiction, a demanding course of study, a morally dangerous pastime, a way of life. Raised in California and Hawaii, Finnegan started surfing as a child. He has chased waves all over the world, wandering for years through the South Pacific, Australia, Asia, Africa. A bookish boy, and then an excessively adventurous young man, he went on to become a distinguished writer and war reporter. Barbarian Days takes us deep into unfamiliar worlds, some of them right under our noses—off the coasts of New York and San Francisco. It immerses the reader in the edgy camaraderie of close male friendships forged in challenging waves. Finnegan shares stories of life in a whites-only gang in a tough school in Honolulu. He shows us a world turned upside down for kids and adults alike by the social upheavals of the 1960s. He details the intricacies of famous waves and his own apprenticeships to them. Youthful folly—he drops LSD while riding huge Honolua Bay, on Maui—is served up with rueful humor. As Finnegan’s travels take him ever farther afield, he discovers the picturesque simplicity of a Samoan fishing village, dissects the sexual politics of Tongan interactions with Americans and Japanese, and navigates the Indonesian black market while nearly succumbing to malaria. Throughout, he surfs, carrying readers with him on rides of harrowing, unprecedented lucidity. Barbarian Days is an old-school adventure story, an intellectual autobiography, a social history, a literary road movie, and an extraordinary exploration of the gradual mastering of an exacting, little-understood art.


Soul Surfer

Soul Surfer

Author: Bethany Hamilton

Publisher: Simon and Schuster

Published: 2012-12-25

Total Pages: 218

ISBN-13: 147110950X

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They say Bethany Hamilton has saltwater in her veins. How else could one explain the tremendous passion that drives her to surf? How else could one explain that nothing - not even the loss of her arm in a horrific shark attack - could come between her and the waves? That Halloween morning in Kauai, Hawaii Bethany responded to the shark's stealth with a calmness beyond belief. Pushing pain and panic aside, she immediately thought: 'Get to the beach...' Rushed to the hospital, where her father, Ted Hamilton, was about to undergo knee surgery, Bethany found herself taking his spot in the operating theatre. When the first thing Bethany wanted to know after surgery was 'When can I surf again?' it became clear that her unfaltering spirit and determination were part of a greater story - a tale of courage and faith that this modest and soft-spoken girl would come to share with the world.


Wingnut's Complete Surfing

Wingnut's Complete Surfing

Author: Robert Weaver

Publisher: McGraw Hill Professional

Published: 2009-05-08

Total Pages: 257

ISBN-13: 0071636994

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From a world-class expert and one of the sport’s greatest legends comes the only total guide for surfing Surfing is a sport that anyone can pick up and enjoy with the right instruction. Yet many how-to books fail to address crucial basics such as wave dynamics, board design and performance, and strategies for paddling out through the wave breaks. Wingnut’s Complete Surfing covers all this and more, providing you with a complete guide.


Walking on Water

Walking on Water

Author: Jeremy V. Jones

Publisher: Gospel Light Publications

Published: 2006-09-05

Total Pages: 198

ISBN-13: 9780830742851

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Surfing is spiritual. Ask most wave riders and they’ll describe some sense of deeper connection with the water, the waves or the power around them. Surfing to them is a spiritual experience. In a subculture that’s traditionally known for its rebellion, here you’ll find a deep undercurrent of faith amongst these top wave riders who share an understanding that the Creator of the waves also desires to know and relate with them. In these pages, you’ll meet top surfers such as C.J. Hobgood, who rose to the top of the surf world but found it ultimately dissatisfying; Bethany Hamilton, a courageous teen who survived a shark attack and returned to the sport; surf legend Tom Curren, a middle-aged father of four whose comeback of sorts is the talk of the surf world; and Al Merrick, a remarkable surfboard shaper who crafts the vehicles ridden by surf stars. Discover what makes these celebrities and others believe that surfing is meaningless without a deep satisfying faith in something more.


Surfing with Sartre

Surfing with Sartre

Author: Aaron James

Publisher: Anchor

Published: 2017-08-08

Total Pages: 342

ISBN-13: 0385540744

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From the bestselling author of Assholes: A Theory, a book that—in the tradition of Shopclass as Soulcraft, Barbarian Days and Zen and the Art of Motorcycle Maintenance—uses the experience and the ethos of surfing to explore key concepts in philosophy. The existentialist philosopher Jean-Paul Sartre once declared "the ideal limit of aquatic sports . . . is waterskiing." The avid surfer and lavishly credentialed academic philosopher Aaron James vigorously disagrees, and in Surfing with Sartre he intends to expound the thinking surfer's view of the matter, in the process elucidating such philosophical categories as freedom, being, phenomenology, morality, epistemology, and even the emerging values of what he terms "leisure capitalism." In developing his unique surfer-philosophical worldview, he draws from his own experience of surfing and from surf culture and lingo, and includes many relevant details from the lives of the philosophers, from Aristotle to Wittgenstein, with whose thought he engages. In the process, he'll speak to readers in search of personal and social meaning in our current anxious moment, by way of doing real, authentic philosophy.


Surfing Is My Passion

Surfing Is My Passion

Author: Cox House Publishing

Publisher: Independently Published

Published: 2019-11

Total Pages: 102

ISBN-13: 9781704407869

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This Is A Blank Lined Notebook/Journal With An Inspirational Cover, That Will Never Let You Feel Bored. It Consist Of 100 Perfectly Sized Pages 8.5x11" This Notebook/Journal Is Specially Made For A Surfer Who Loves Writing About His/Her Journey. Also, This Can Be A Perfect Gift For Your Surfer Friend/Family Member. Features: * Perfectly Sized: 8.5x11" * Interior Details: Blank Lined * Number Of Pages: 100 Sturdy Pages * Cover: Soft Glossy Cover With A Smooth Finish that Feels Amazing. * High Quality Paper That Allow Perfect Absorbency For Pens, Gel-Pens And Other Writing Materials. * Great Size For Convenient Carrying * Perfect For Gift Giving What're You Waiting For, Click The Buy Now Button Above And Order It Now!


Be Unstoppable

Be Unstoppable

Author: Bethany Hamilton

Publisher: Zondervan

Published: 2018-06-05

Total Pages: 129

ISBN-13: 0310764904

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Showcasing page after page of breathtaking photos and life-changing inspiration from champion surfer and Christian role model Bethany Hamilton, Be Unstoppable is a beautiful gift of encouragement for any young adult to boldly follow your passions, live in faith, and be unstoppable as well. After losing her left arm to a 14-foot tiger shark and returning to the competitive surfing waters a month later, New York Times bestselling author and champion surfer Bethany Hamilton is the heroine in one of the biggest comeback stories of our era. In Be Unstoppable, Bethany shares how faith, love, and passion have been the fuel to push her beyond all expectations. Alongside her insights are spectacular, full-color photos of Bethany the world-class surfer in action, capturing both her mastery of her sport as well as the beauty and raw power of the ocean. Whether in school, sports, faith, or friendships, the tenacity, courage, and wisdom that pops from these pages will help you find the unstoppable in your own life. Be bold. Be inspired. Be unstoppable. Be Unstoppable: Features the inspirational words of sought-after public speaker, champion surfer, and spiritual icon Bethany Hamilton Includes more than 60 breathtaking photos from the making of her new documentary, Bethany Hamilton: Unstoppable Captures Bethany's sense of wonder and adventure throughout every page Is a full-color, giftable photo book with a decorated cover


The School of Greatness

The School of Greatness

Author: Lewis Howes

Publisher: Rodale

Published: 2015-10-27

Total Pages: 274

ISBN-13: 1623365961

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When a career-ending injury left elite athlete and professional football player Lewis Howes out of work and living on his sister’s couch, he decided he needed to make a change for the better. He started by reaching out to people he admired, searching for mentors, and applying his past coaches’ advice from sports to life off the field. Lewis did more than bounce back: He built a multimillion-dollar online business and is now a sought-after business coach, speaker, and podcast host. In The School of Greatness, Howes shares the essential tips and habits he gathered in interviewing “the greats” on his wildly popular podcast of the same name. In discussion with people like Olympic gold medalist Shawn Johnson and Pencils of Promise CEO Adam Braun, Howes figured out that greatness is unearthed and cultivated from within. The masters of greatness are not successful because they got lucky or are innately more talented, but because they applied specific habits and tools to embrace and overcome adversity in their lives. A framework for personal development, The School of Greatness gives you the tools, knowledge, and actionable resources you need to reach your potential. Howes anchors each chapter with a specific lesson he culled from his greatness “professors” and his own experiences to teach you how to create a vision, develop hustle, and use dedication, mindfulness, joy, and love to reach goals. His lessons and practical exercises prove that anyone is capable of achieving success and that we can all strive for greatness in our everyday lives.


Surfing Is My Passion : Journal

Surfing Is My Passion : Journal

Author: Cox House Publishing

Publisher: Independently Published

Published: 2019-11

Total Pages: 100

ISBN-13: 9781704407845

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This Is A Blank Lined Notebook/Journal With An Inspirational Cover, That Will Never Let You Feel Bored. It Consist Of 100 Perfectly Sized Pages 8.5x11" This Notebook/Journal Is Specially Made For A Surfer Who Loves Writing About His/Her Journey. Also, This Can Be A Perfect Gift For Your Surfer Friend/Family Member. Features : * Perfectly Sized: 8.5x11" * Interior Details: Blank Lined * Number Of Pages: 100 Sturdy Pages * Cover: Soft Glossy Cover With A Smooth Finish that Feels Amazing. * High Quality Paper That Allow Perfect Absorbency For Pens, Gel-Pens And Other Writing Materials. * Great Size For Convenient Carrying * Perfect For Gift Giving What're You Waiting For, Click The Buy Now Button Above And Order It Now!