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Author: Frank Lee Bub
Publisher:
Published: 1974
Total Pages: 130
ISBN-13:
DOWNLOAD EBOOKThe experiment was designed to measure surface profiles and water velocities in the breaker zone and compare the results with present theory. As a secondary objective the accuracy and usefulness of capacitance wave gages and electromagnetic flow meters in the surf environment were evaluated.
Author: Alfred James Olsen
Publisher:
Published: 1977
Total Pages: 164
ISBN-13:
DOWNLOAD EBOOKSimultaneous measurements of sea surface elevation and onshore and alongshore water particle velocities were measured at three locations within the surf zone using two capacitance type penetrating wave staffs and three two-component electromagnetic flow meters. The probability density functions, pdf, for the sea surface elevation were always highly positively skewed, whereas the pdf's for the velocities were both negatively and positively skewed. Mean values of the onshore and alongshore components of flow reflected the influence of a rip current frequently observed just south of the instrument locations. Strong harmonics in the spectra of sea surface fluctuations and particle velocities infer nonlinear conditions. Coherence values between waves and onshore flow were high, ranging above 0.9. The coherence between waves and onshore flow was used to separate the turbulence and wave-induced velocity components. Over the range of collapsing to spilling breakers a reasonable value for the ratio of turbulent to wave-induced velocity was determined to be approximately 0.75. Saturation regions were found in the wave and velocity energy-density spectra at higher frequencies as evidenced by -5 and -3 slopes, respectively. (Author).
Author: Jane McKee Smith
Publisher:
Published: 2007
Total Pages: 1128
ISBN-13:
DOWNLOAD EBOOKThis Proceedings contains 445 papers presented at the 30th International Conference on Coastal Engineering, which was held in San Diego, California, USA, 3-8 September 2006. The Proceedings is divided into five parts: Waves; Swash, Nearshore Currents, and Long Waves; Coastal Management, Risk, and Ecosystem Restoration; Sediment Transport and Morphology; and Coastal Structures. The individual papers cover a broad range of topics including theory, numerical and physical modeling, field measurements, case studies, design, and management. These papers provide engineers, scientists, and planners state-of-the-art information on coastal engineering and coastal processes.
Author: Michael L. Banner
Publisher: Springer Science & Business Media
Published: 2012-12-06
Total Pages: 375
ISBN-13: 3642848478
DOWNLOAD EBOOKWave breaking is a commonly occurring phenomena associated with wave motion in fluids, often inducing significant effects which are of fundamental and technological importance, A familiar illustration is provided with white-capping and microbreaking of the wind-driven ocean sUrface waves, which is believed to play an important part in the transfers of momentum, mass and heat across the air-sea interface, as well as in the production of underwater ambient noise and augmented microwave backscatter. The enhanced hydrodynamic forces associated with the breaking of the more energetic ocean wave components constitute a significant challenge in ocean engineering, coastal engineering and naval architecture. Other less conspicuous but equally important manifestations are the breaking of internal waves and the fila mentation of vorticity interfaces. Despite recent theoretical and observational progress towards a more complete understanding of wave breaking, mathematical descriptions of its onset and consequences are presently lacking. The aim of this Symposium was to bring together theoretical and observational expertise, with the goal of determining the current state of knowledge of wave breaking and providing a stimulus to future research. The Symposium focused on water waves of all scales from capillary waves to ocean swell, but also considered internal waves and the filamentation of vorticity interfaces. Specific topics included were: Fundamental theoretical studies; wave instabilities; routes to breaking. Models of wave breaking. Field observations, including statistical information. Laboratory studies. Shoaling waves, breaking waves on currents, breaking induced by the motion of a ship.
Author: Society for Underwater Technology (SUT)
Publisher: Springer Science & Business Media
Published: 2013-03-14
Total Pages: 337
ISBN-13: 9401736634
DOWNLOAD EBOOKIn determining the response of offshore structures, it is of utmost importance to determine, in the most correct manner, all factors which contribute to the total force acting on these structures. Applying the Morison formula (Morison et. al. , 1950) to calculate forces on offshore slender structures, uncertainties related to the understanding of the wave climate, the hydrodynamic force coefficients and the kinematics of ocean waves represent the most important contributions to the uncertainties in the prediction of the total forces on these structures (Haver and Gudmestad, 1992). Traditional calculation of forces on offshore structures involves the use of regular waves with the following non-linearities inco1porated use of regular wave theories inco1porating higher order terms use of Morison equation having a nonlinear drag term inclusion of the effect of the free surface by integrating all contributions to total forces and moments from the sea floor to the free surface of the waves In order to describe the sea more realistically, the ocean surface is to be described as an irregular sea surface represented by its energy spectrum. The associated decomposition of the sea surface is given as a linear sum of linear waves. The total force is found by integrating the contribution from all components in the wave spectrum to the free surface. The kinematics of each component must therefore be determined.
Author: Derek Jackson
Publisher: Elsevier
Published: 2020-05-20
Total Pages: 814
ISBN-13: 0081029276
DOWNLOAD EBOOKSandy beaches represent some of the most dynamic environments on Earth and examining their morphodynamic behaviour over different temporal and spatial scales is challenging, relying on multidisciplinary approaches and techniques. Sandy Beach Morphodynamics brings together the latest research on beach systems and their morphodynamics and the ways in which they are studied in 29 chapters that review the full spectrum of beach morphodynamics. The chapters are written by leading experts in the field and provide introductory level understanding of physical processes and resulting landforms, along with more advanced discussions.
Author: A. Tørum
Publisher: Springer Science & Business Media
Published: 2012-12-06
Total Pages: 751
ISBN-13: 9400905319
DOWNLOAD EBOOKWater wave kinematics is a central field of study in ocean and coastal engineering. The wave forces on structures as well as sand erosion both on coastlines and in the ocean are to a large extent governed by the local distribution of velocities and accelerations of the water particles. Our knowledge of waves has generally been derived from measurements of the water surface elevations. The reason for this is that the surface elevations have been of primary interest and fairly cheap and reliable instruments have been developed for such measurements. The water wave kinematics has then been derived from the surface elevation information by various theories. However. the different theories for the calculation of water particle velocities and acceleration have turned out to give significant differences in the calculated responses of structures. In recent years new measurement techniques have made it possible to make accurate velocity measurements. Hence. the editors deemed it to be useful to bring together a group of experts working actively as researchers in the field of water wave kinematics. These experts included theoreticians as well as experimentalists on wave kinematics. It was also deemed useful to include experts on the response of structures to have their views from a structural engineering point of view on what information is really needed on water wave kinematics.
Author: J?rgen Freds?e
Publisher: World Scientific
Published: 1992
Total Pages: 406
ISBN-13: 9789810208400
DOWNLOAD EBOOKThis book treats the subject of sediment transport in the marine environment, covering transport of non-cohesive sediment by waves and current in- and outside the surf zone. It can be read independently, but a background in hydraulics and basic wave mechanics is required. It is intended for M.Sc. and Ph.D. students. The primary aim of the book is to describe the physical processes of sediment transport and how to represent them in mathematical models. It does not present a large number of different formulae for the sediment transport rates under various conditions. The book can be divided in two main parts; in the first, the relevant hydrodynamic theory is described; in the second, sediment transport and morphological development are treated. The hydrodynamic part contains a review of elementary theory for water waves, chapters on the turbulent wave boundary layer and the turbulent interaction between waves and currents, and finally, surf zone hydrodynamics and wave driven currents. The part on sediment transport introduces the basic concepts (critical bed shear stress, bed load, suspended load and sheet layer, near-bed concentration, effect of sloping bed); it treats suspended sediment in waves and current and in the surf zone, and current and wave-generated bed forms. Finally, the modelling of cross-shore and long-shore sediment transport is described together with the development, of coastal profiles and coastlines.
Author: B Mutlu Sumer
Publisher: World Scientific
Published: 2020-03-23
Total Pages: 758
ISBN-13: 9813234326
DOWNLOAD EBOOKThis book discusses the subject of turbulence encountered in coastal and civil engineering.The primary aim of the book is to describe turbulence processes including transition to turbulence; mean and fluctuating flows in channels/pipes, and in currents; wave boundary layers (including boundary layers under solitary waves); streaming processes in wave boundary layers; turbulence processes in breaking waves including breaking solitary waves; turbulence processes such as bursting process and their implications for sediment transport; flow resistance in steady and wave boundary layers; and turbulent diffusion and dispersion processes in the coastal and river environment, including sediment transport due to diffusion/dispersion.Both phenomenological and statistical theories are described in great detail. Turbulence modelling is also described, and several examples for modelling of turbulence in steady flow and wave boundary layers are presented.The book ends with a chapter containing hands-on exercises on a wide variety of turbulent flows including experimental study of turbulence in an open-channel flow, using Laser Doppler Anemometry; Statistical, correlation and spectral analysis of turbulent air jet flow; Turbulence modelling of wave boundary layer flows; and numerical modelling of dispersion in a turbulent boundary layer, a set of exercises used by the authors in their Masters classes over many years.Although the book is essentially intended for professionals and researchers in the area of Coastal and Civil Engineering, and as a text book for graduate/post graduate students, the contents of the book will, however, additionally provide sufficient background in the study of turbulent flows relevant to many other disciplines, such as Wind Engineering, Mechanical Engineering, and Environmental Engineering.
Author: Robert G Dean
Publisher: World Scientific Publishing Company
Published: 1991-01-23
Total Pages: 369
ISBN-13: 9814365696
DOWNLOAD EBOOKThis book is intended as an introduction to classical water wave theory for the college senior or first year graduate student. The material is self-contained; almost all mathematical and engineering concepts are presented or derived in the text, thus making the book accessible to practicing engineers as well.The book commences with a review of fluid mechanics and basic vector concepts. The formulation and solution of the governing boundary value problem for small amplitude waves are developed and the kinematic and pressure fields for short and long waves are explored. The transformation of waves due to variations in depth and their interactions with structures are derived. Wavemaker theories and the statistics of ocean waves are reviewed. The application of the water particle motions and pressure fields are applied to the calculation of wave forces on small and large objects. Extension of the linear theory results to several nonlinear wave properties is presented. Each chapter concludes with a set of homework problems exercising and sometimes extending the material presented in the chapter. An appendix provides a description of nine experiments which can be performed, with little additional equipment, in most wave tank facilities.
