Surf Science
Surf Science

Author: Tony Butt

Publisher: Alison Hodge Publishers

Published: 2014-03-25

Total Pages: 140

ISBN-13: 9780906720899

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Have you ever wondered where surf­ing waves come from, what makes every wave dif­fer­ent, why some peel per­fectly and oth­ers just close out; why, some days, the waves come in sets and other days they don’t, and how the tides, the wind and the shape of the sea floor affect the waves for surf­ing? If you have, this book is for you. Now in its third edi­tion, Surf Sci­ence is the first book to talk in depth about the sci­ence of waves from a surfer’s point of view. It fills the gap between surf­ing books and waves text­books, and will help you learn how to pre­dict surf. Surf Sci­ence is also a use­ful intro­duc­tion to ocean­o­graphy and the sci­ence of waves. You don’t need a sci­entific back­ground to read it – just curi­os­ity and a fas­cin­a­tion for waves.

Surf Science
Surf Science

Author: Tony Butt

Publisher: University of Hawaii Press

Published: 2014-03-31

Total Pages: 0

ISBN-13: 9780824839543

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Have you ever wondered where waves come from? What makes every one different, why some peel nicely and others just close out? Why, some days, waves come in sets of six and others in sets of three, and what factors affect the behavior of a surfing break? If you have, this book is for you. Now in its third edition, Surf Science is the first book to talk in depth about the science of waves from a surfer’s point of view. It fills the gap between surfing books and waves textbooks and will help you learn how to predict surf. You don’t need a scientific background to read it—just curiosity and a fascination for waves.

Surf Science
Surf Science

Author: Tony Butt

Publisher: Alison Hodge Publishers

Published: 2004

Total Pages: 148

ISBN-13: 9780906720363

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Now in its second edition, 'Surf Science' is the first book to talk in depth about the science of waves from a surfer's point of view. It fills the gap between surfing books and waves textbooks, and will help you learn how to predict surf. You don't need a scientific background to read it - just curiosity and a fascination for waves.

West of Jesus
West of Jesus

Author: Steven Kotler

Publisher: Bloomsbury Publishing USA

Published: 2008-12-01

Total Pages: 270

ISBN-13: 1596918357

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After spending two years in bed with Lyme disease, Steven Kotler had lost everything: his health, his job, his girl, and, he was beginning to suspect, his mind. Kotler, not a religious man, suddenly found himself drawn to the sport of surfing as if it were the cornerstone of a new faith. Why, he wondered, when there was nothing left to believe in, could he begin to believe in something as unlikely as surfing? What was belief anyway? How did it work in the body, the brain, our culture, and human history? With the help of everyone from rebel surfers to rocket scientists, Kotler undertakes a three-year globetrotting quest. The results are a startling mix of big waves and bigger ideas: a surfer's journey into the biological underpinnings of belief itself.

Dr. Rip's Essential Beach Book
Dr. Rip's Essential Beach Book

Author: Rob Brander

Publisher: Columbia University Press

Published: 2024-05-28

Total Pages: 267

ISBN-13: 0231217412

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How do waves break, and what makes good surf? What are dangerous rip currents, and how do you spot one? What should you do if you get caught in one? Australia’s best-known surf scientist, Rob “Dr. Rip” Brander, takes readers on a fascinating and entertaining journey to uncover how beaches form and behave, the science of waves and currents, and how beaches respond to storms and climate change. He explains where the sand we lay our towels on came from, how the tides that wash up new treasures each day work, why no two beaches are exactly the same, and why some of them are disappearing. He also explores some of the hazards to watch out for, from rip currents to tsunamis to the (unlikely) event you find yourself swimming with a shark. Whether you’re a surfer looking for the perfect wave or you just enjoy hitting the beach with friends and family, this book is a must-read for all ocean lovers.

Surf Survival
Surf Survival

Author: Andrew Nathanson

Publisher: Simon and Schuster

Published: 2019-07-02

Total Pages: 599

ISBN-13: 1510749047

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Three expert physicians/surfers trained in emergency medicine, sports medicine, and family medicine explain everything you need to know to stay safe in the water. Whether you’re a novice or an expert, an SUPer or a bodyboarder, Surf Survival is the only book that every surfer must have in his or her backpack, car, and beach house. This practical handbook explains everything from how to reduce a shoulder dislocation to understanding waves and currents, from how to treat jellyfish stings to how to apply a tourniquet. Whether you are surfing a crowded beach in California or a remote island in Indonesia, be prepared to handle surfing-related emergencies from hypothermia and drowning to wound care and infections. Topics include: • Fitness for surfers • Prevention and rehabilitation of common overuse injuries • Wilderness first aid • Surviving the sun • Surf-travel medicine • Surviving big surf • SUP • Surfer's ear • And much, much more! Written by three expert physician surfers, packed with color photos and illustrations, this is the authoritative medical guide for surfers and watermen.

The Science of Surfing: A Surfside Girls Guide to the Ocean
The Science of Surfing: A Surfside Girls Guide to the Ocean

Author: Kim Dwinell

Publisher: Top Shelf Productions

Published: 2021-12-15

Total Pages: 116

ISBN-13: 1684069963

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The ocean is packed with plants, animals, water… and science! Ride the waves of knowledge with Sam and Jade as they explain all about the amazing wonders of the sea, and have a blast doing it. Have you ever wondered why the ocean has waves? Why the tide goes in and out? And how can coral be alive when it looks like a rock? From the pages of the beloved graphic novel series, join the Surfside Girls, Sam and Jade, for a great investigation into everything that makes the ocean so cool: from moon cycles and king tides, to why a wave breaks, to otters in kelp forests… with plenty of fun and jokes along the way. Plus, there’s a whole step-by-step chapter on how to surf! The Science of Surfing is the coolest way to take a beach vacation and learn at the same time.

Coal Science
Coal Science

Author: Martin L. Gorbaty

Publisher: Academic Press

Published: 2013-10-22

Total Pages: 365

ISBN-13: 1483268209

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Coal Science, Volume 3 presents and evaluates selected fundamental scientific areas on coal structure, reactivity, and utilization. This book describes the organic geochemistry of coal, role of oxygen functionality in coal and coal liquids reactivity, chemistry of hydrocarbon syntheses from carbon monoxide and hydrogen, and chemistry of coal in carbon monoxide/water systems. Other topics discussed include intermediates and mechanisms of the FTS of hydrocarbons; synthesis of oxygenates; and structural features of vitrinite macerals. The molecular weight determination for coal derivatives; thermal reactions of oxygen compounds; and alternative methods for removing oxygen compounds from coal-derived liquids are also elaborated. This publication likewise covers the aqueous coal conversions and conversion mechanism. This volume serves as a valuable source of information and guide to scientists and researchers interested in the coal literature.

Carbon Dioxide Chemistry
Carbon Dioxide Chemistry

Author: J P Pradier

Publisher: Elsevier

Published: 2014-03-14

Total Pages: 418

ISBN-13: 1782424938

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This book derives from a workshop held in Sweden to examine the environmental implications of the dramatic increase in carbon dioxide levels in the atmosphere in the last 50 years and to find ways of mitigating greenhouse gas emissions. This multi-disciplinary approach makes it essential reading not only for chemists but for all engineers, biologists and environmentalists concerned with this crucially important issue.