This book presents two distinct aspects of wave dynamics – wave propagation and diffraction – with a focus on wave diffraction. The authors apply different mathematical methods to the solution of typical problems in the theory of wave propagation and diffraction and analyze the obtained results. The rigorous diffraction theory distinguishes three approaches: the method of surface currents, where the diffracted field is represented as a superposition of secondary spherical waves emitted by each element (the Huygens–Fresnel principle); the Fourier method; and the separation of variables and Wiener–Hopf transformation method. Chapter 1 presents mathematical methods related to studying the problems of wave diffraction theory, while Chapter 2 deals with spectral methods in the theory of wave propagation, focusing mainly on the Fourier methods to study the Stokes (gravity) waves on the surface of inviscid fluid. Chapter 3 then presents some results of modeling the refraction of surf ace gravity waves on the basis of the ray method, which originates from geometrical optics. Chapter 4 is devoted to the diffraction of surface gravity waves and the final two chapters discuss the diffraction of waves by semi-infinite domains on the basis of method of images and present some results on the problem of propagation of tsunami waves. Lastly, it provides insights into directions for further developing the wave diffraction theory.
“It came from nowhere, snapping giant ships in two. No one believed the survivors . . . until now” —New Scientist magazine cover, June 30, 2001 Rogue waves are the focus of this book. They are among the waves naturally - served by people on the sea surface that represent an inseparable feature of the Ocean. Rogue waves appear from nowhere, cause danger, and disappear at once. They may occur on the surface of a relatively calm sea and not reach very high amplitudes, but still be fatal for ships and crew due to their unexpectedness and abnormal features. Seamen are known to be unsurpassed authors of exciting and horrifying stories about the sea and sea waves. This could explain why, despite the increasing number of documented cases, that sailors’ observations of “walls of - ter” have been considered ctitious for a while. These stories are now addressed again due to the amount of doubtless evidence of the existence of the phenomenon, but still without suf cient information to - able interested researchers and engineers to completely understand it. The billows appear suddenly, exceeding the surrounding waves by two times their size and more, and obtaining many names: abnormal, exceptional, extreme, giant, huge, s- den, episodic, freak, monster, rogue, vicious, killer, mad- or rabid-dog waves, cape rollers, holes in the sea, walls of water, three sisters, etc.
This book describes the forecasting and risk evaluation of tsunamis by tectonic motion, land slides, explosions, run-up, and maps the tsunami sources in the world's oceans. It presents stochastic Monte-Carlo simulations and focusing mechanisms for rogue waves, nonlinear wave models, breather formulas, and the kinematics of the Draupner wave. Coverage also reveals the full story about the discovery of the very large oceanic internal waves.
This edited book is based on the accepted papers for presentation at the 1st MedGU Annual Meeting, Istanbul 2021. With three sections spanning a large spectrum of geological and geoenvironmental topics, this book presents a series of newest research studies that are nowadays relevant to Middle East, Mediterranean region, and Africa. The book includes major subjects related to hydrogeology, geoecology, and atmospheric sciences. Case studies are from the fields of hydrology, hydrogeology, hydrogeochemistry and water resources, biogeochemistry, geobiology and geoecology, atmospheric sciences, meteorology, climatology, and oceanography.
"The book gives thorough coverage of the derivation and solution methods for all fundamental nonlinear model equations, such as Korteweg-de Vries, Camassa-Holm, Degasperis-Procesi, Euler-Poincare, Toda lattice, Boussinesq, Burgers, Fisher, Whitham, nonlinear Klein-Gordon, sine-Gordon, nonlinear Schrodinger, nonlinear reaction-diffustion, and Euler-Lagrange equations."--Page 4 of cover.