The Interaction of Ocean Waves and Wind
The Interaction of Ocean Waves and Wind

Author: Peter Janssen

Publisher: Cambridge University Press

Published: 2004-10-28

Total Pages: 310

ISBN-13: 0521465400

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This book was published in 2004. The Interaction of Ocean Waves and Wind describes in detail the two-way interaction between wind and ocean waves and shows how ocean waves affect weather forecasting on timescales of 5 to 90 days. Winds generate ocean waves, but at the same time airflow is modified due to the loss of energy and momentum to the waves; thus, momentum loss from the atmosphere to the ocean depends on the state of the waves. This volume discusses ocean wave evolution according to the energy balance equation. An extensive overview of nonlinear transfer is given, and as a by-product the role of four-wave interactions in the generation of extreme events, such as freak waves, is discussed. Effects on ocean circulation are described. Coupled ocean-wave, atmosphere modelling gives improved weather and wave forecasts. This volume will interest ocean wave modellers, physicists and applied mathematicians, and engineers interested in shipping and coastal protection.

Waves in Oceanic and Coastal Waters
Waves in Oceanic and Coastal Waters

Author: Leo H. Holthuijsen

Publisher: Cambridge University Press

Published: 2010-02-04

Total Pages: 9

ISBN-13: 1139462520

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Waves in Oceanic and Coastal Waters describes the observation, analysis and prediction of wind-generated waves in the open ocean, in shelf seas, and in coastal regions with islands, channels, tidal flats and inlets, estuaries, fjords and lagoons. Most of this richly illustrated book is devoted to the physical aspects of waves. After introducing observation techniques for waves, both at sea and from space, the book defines the parameters that characterise waves. Using basic statistical and physical concepts, the author discusses the prediction of waves in oceanic and coastal waters, first in terms of generalised observations, and then in terms of the more theoretical framework of the spectral energy balance. He gives the results of established theories and also the direction in which research is developing. The book ends with a description of SWAN (Simulating Waves Nearshore), the preferred computer model of the engineering community for predicting waves in coastal waters.

Ocean Waves
Ocean Waves

Author: Michel K. Ochi

Publisher: Cambridge University Press

Published: 1998-03-28

Total Pages: 333

ISBN-13: 052156378X

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Describes the stochastic method for ocean wave analysis - vital information for design and operation of ships.

Extreme Waves
Extreme Waves

Author: Craig B. Smith

Publisher: National Academies Press

Published: 2006

Total Pages: 0

ISBN-13: 9780309100625

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In this fascinating history of extreme ocean waves, Smith covers such headline stories as the 2004 tsunami and Hurricanes Katrina and Rita, as well as incidents that are less well-known but equally startling.

Ocean Wave Climate
Ocean Wave Climate

Author: M. D. Earle

Publisher: Springer

Published: 2012-11-25

Total Pages: 0

ISBN-13: 9781468434019

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Waves critically affect man in coastal regions, including the open coasts and adjacent continental shelves. Preventing beach erosion, designing and building structures, designing and operating ships, providing marine forecasts, and coastal planning are but a few examples of projects for which extensive information about wave conditions is critical. Scientific studies, especially those in volving coastal processes and the development of better wave prediction models, also require wave condition information. How ever, wave conditions along and off the coasts of the United States have not been adequately determined. The main categories of available wave data are visual estimates of wave conditions made from ships at sea, scientific measurements of waves made for short time periods at specific locations, and a small number of long-term measurements made from piers or offshore platforms. With these considerations in mind, the National Ocean Survey of the National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration sponsored the Ocean Wave Climate Symposium at Herndon, Virginia, July 12-14, 1977. This volume contains papers presented at this symposium. A goal of the symposium was to establish the foundations for a com prehensive and far-sighted wave measurement and analysis program to fully describe the coastal wave climate of the United States. Emphasis was placed on ocean engineering and scientific uses of wave data, existing wave monitoring programs, and modern measure ment techniques which may provide currently needed data.

Coastal and Marine Hazards, Risks, and Disasters
Coastal and Marine Hazards, Risks, and Disasters

Author: Jean Ellis

Publisher: Academic Press

Published: 2014-11-11

Total Pages: 591

ISBN-13: 0123965381

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Sea and Ocean Hazards, Risks and Disasters provides a scientific approach to those hazards and disasters related to the Earth's coasts and oceans. This is the first book to integrate scientific, social, and economic issues related to disasters such as hazard identification, risk analysis, and planning, relevant hazard process mechanics, discussions of preparedness, response, and recovery, and the economics of loss and remediation. Throughout the book cases studies are presented of historically relevant hazards and disasters as well as the many recent catastrophes. - Contains contributions from experts in the field selected by a world-renowned editorial board - Cutting-edge discussion of natural hazard topics that affect the lives and livelihoods of millions of humans worldwide - Numerous full-color tables, GIS maps, diagrams, illustrations, and photographs of hazardous processes in action will be included

Sea-Level Rise for the Coasts of California, Oregon, and Washington
Sea-Level Rise for the Coasts of California, Oregon, and Washington

Author: National Research Council

Publisher: National Academies Press

Published: 2012-12-06

Total Pages: 274

ISBN-13: 0309255945

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Tide gauges show that global sea level has risen about 7 inches during the 20th century, and recent satellite data show that the rate of sea-level rise is accelerating. As Earth warms, sea levels are rising mainly because ocean water expands as it warms; and water from melting glaciers and ice sheets is flowing into the ocean. Sea-level rise poses enormous risks to the valuable infrastructure, development, and wetlands that line much of the 1,600 mile shoreline of California, Oregon, and Washington. As those states seek to incorporate projections of sea-level rise into coastal planning, they asked the National Research Council to make independent projections of sea-level rise along their coasts for the years 2030, 2050, and 2100, taking into account regional factors that affect sea level. Sea-Level Rise for the Coasts of California, Oregon, and Washington: Past, Present, and Future explains that sea level along the U.S. west coast is affected by a number of factors. These include: climate patterns such as the El Niño, effects from the melting of modern and ancient ice sheets, and geologic processes, such as plate tectonics. Regional projections for California, Oregon, and Washington show a sharp distinction at Cape Mendocino in northern California. South of that point, sea-level rise is expected to be very close to global projections. However, projections are lower north of Cape Mendocino because the land is being pushed upward as the ocean plate moves under the continental plate along the Cascadia Subduction Zone. However, an earthquake magnitude 8 or larger, which occurs in the region every few hundred to 1,000 years, would cause the land to drop and sea level to suddenly rise.

Advances in Numerical Simulation of Nonlinear Water Waves
Advances in Numerical Simulation of Nonlinear Water Waves

Author: Qingwei Ma

Publisher: World Scientific

Published: 2010

Total Pages: 700

ISBN-13: 9812836500

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Ch. 1. Model for fully nonlinear ocean wave simulations derived using Fourier inversion of integral equations in 3D / J. Grue and D. Fructus -- ch. 2. Two-dimensional direct numerical simulations of the dynamics of rogue waves under wind action / J. Touboul and C. Kharif -- ch. 3. Progress in fully nonlinear potential flow modeling of 3D extreme ocean waves / S.T. Grilli [und weitere] -- ch. 4. Time domain simulation of nonlinear water waves using spectral methods / F. Bonnefoy [und weitere] -- ch. 5. QALE-FEM method and its application to the simulation of free-responses of floating bodies and overturning waves / Q.W. Ma and S. Yan -- ch. 6. Velocity calculation methods in finite element based MEL formulation / V. Sriram, S.A. Sannasiraj and V. Sundar -- ch. 7. High-order Boussinesq-type modelling of nonlinear wave phenomena in deep and shallow water / P.A. Madsen and D.R. Fuhrman -- ch. 8. Inter-comparisons of different forms of higher-order Boussinesq equations / Z.L. Zou, K.Z. Fang and Z.B. Liu -- ch. 9. Method of fundamental solutions for fully nonlinear water waves / D.-L. Young, N.-J. Wu and T.-K. Tsay -- ch. 10. Application of the finite volume method to the simulation of nonlinear water waves / D. Greaves -- ch. 11. Developments in multi-fluid finite volume free surface capturing method / D.M. Causon, C.G. Mingham and L. Qian -- ch. 12. Numerical computation methods for strongly nonlinear wave-body interactions / M. Kashiwagi, C. Hu and M. Sueyoshi -- ch. 13. Smoothed particle hydrodynamics for water waves / R.A. Dalrymple [und weitere] -- ch. 14. Modelling nonlinear water waves with RANS and LES SPH models / R. Issa [und weitere] -- ch. 15. MLPG_R method and Its application to various nonlinear water waves / Q.W. Ma -- ch. 16. Large Eddy simulation of the hydrodynamics generated by breaking waves / P. Lubin and J.-P. Caltagirone -- ch. 17. Recent advances in turbulence modeling for unsteady breaking waves / Q. Zhao and S.W. Armfield -- ch. 18. Freak waves and their interaction with ships and offshore structures / G.F. Clauss

Ocean Surface Waves
Ocean Surface Waves

Author: Stanislaw R. Massel

Publisher: World Scientific

Published: 1996

Total Pages: 514

ISBN-13: 9789810221096

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This book is intended as a handbook for professionals and researchers in the areas of Physical Oceanography, Ocean and Coastal Engineering and as a text for graduate students in these fields. It presents a comprehensive study on surface ocean waves induced by wind, including basic mathematical principles, physical description of the observed phenomena, practical forecasting techniques of various wave parameters and applications in ocean and coastal engineering, all from the probabilistic and spectral points of view. The book commences with a description of mechanisms of surface wave generation by wind and its modern modeling techniques. The stochastic and probabilistic terminology is introduced and the basic statistical and spectral properties of ocean waves are developed and discussed in detail. The bulk of material deals with the prediction techniques for waves in deep and coastal waters for simple and complex ocean basins and complex bathymetry. The various prediction methods, currently used in oceanography and ocean engineering, are described and the examples of practical calculations illustrate the basic text. An appendix provides a description of the modern methods of wave measurement, including the remote sensing techniques. Also the wave simulation methods and random data analysis techniques are discussed. In the book a lot of discoveries of the Russian and East European scientists, largely unknown in the Western literature due to the language barrier, are referred to.

The Ocean and Cryosphere in a Changing Climate
The Ocean and Cryosphere in a Changing Climate

Author: Intergovernmental Panel on Climate Change (IPCC)

Publisher: Cambridge University Press

Published: 2022-04-30

Total Pages: 755

ISBN-13: 9781009157971

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The Intergovernmental Panel on Climate Change (IPCC) is the leading international body for assessing the science related to climate change. It provides policymakers with regular assessments of the scientific basis of human-induced climate change, its impacts and future risks, and options for adaptation and mitigation. This IPCC Special Report on the Ocean and Cryosphere in a Changing Climate is the most comprehensive and up-to-date assessment of the observed and projected changes to the ocean and cryosphere and their associated impacts and risks, with a focus on resilience, risk management response options, and adaptation measures, considering both their potential and limitations. It brings together knowledge on physical and biogeochemical changes, the interplay with ecosystem changes, and the implications for human communities. It serves policymakers, decision makers, stakeholders, and all interested parties with unbiased, up-to-date, policy-relevant information. This title is also available as Open Access on Cambridge Core.