Report
Report

Author: United States. National Bureau of Standards

Publisher:

Published: 1959

Total Pages: 844

ISBN-13:

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Extreme Ocean Waves
Extreme Ocean Waves

Author: Efim Pelinovsky

Publisher: Springer

Published: 2015-09-02

Total Pages: 242

ISBN-13: 3319215752

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This revised and updated second edition details the vast progress that has been achieved in the understanding of the physical mechanisms of rogue wave phenomenon in recent years. The selected articles address such issues as the formation of rogue waves due to modulational instability of nonlinear wave field, physical and statistical properties of extreme ocean wave generation in deep water as well as in shallow water, various models of nonlinear water waves, special analysis of nonlinear resonances between water waves and the relation between in situ observations, experimental data and rogue wave theories. In addition, recent results on tsunami waves due to subaerial landslides are presented. This book is written for specialists in the fields of fluid mechanics, applied mathematics, nonlinear physics, physical oceanography and geophysics, and for students learning these subjects.

Array Measurements of Surface Gravity Waves
Array Measurements of Surface Gravity Waves

Author: Thomas H. C. Herbers

Publisher:

Published: 1990

Total Pages: 262

ISBN-13:

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Local properties of natural, wind generated, surface gravity waves are examined with arrays of pressure transducers. Two methods are presented for interpretation of array measurements. First and estimator for wave radiation stresses and energy fluxes is derived, applicable to an array of 4 pressure transducers arranged in a square. The technique is based on an expansion for small kL with k the wave number and L the sensor separation. A variational method for estimating directional wave spectra, applicable to arbitrary array geometries in constant or slowly varying depth water is presented next. A smooth estimate of the directional distribution of wave energy S (Theta) is obtained by minimizing a roughness measure. Model tests show that spurious features are effectively rejected by the smoothness constraint, and illustrate the importance of data-independent information. Estimates of S(Theta), obtained from field data collected offshore of a mildly sloping beach, show that reflection of incident sea and swell is very weak. Observations of sea floor pressure fluctuations in 13 m depth are compared to a theory for weakly nonlinear surface gravity waves. Nonlinear interactions between directionally opposing seas theoretically excite long wavelength, double sea frequency forced waves that are only weakly attenuated at the sea floor. Observed bottom pressure spectra show that large fluctuations in double sea frequency (0.35 - 0.6 Hz) forced wave energy can occur in only a few hours.

Advances in Numerical Simulation of Nonlinear Water Waves
Advances in Numerical Simulation of Nonlinear Water Waves

Author: Qingwei Ma

Publisher: World Scientific

Published: 2010

Total Pages: 700

ISBN-13: 9812836500

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Ch. 1. Model for fully nonlinear ocean wave simulations derived using Fourier inversion of integral equations in 3D / J. Grue and D. Fructus -- ch. 2. Two-dimensional direct numerical simulations of the dynamics of rogue waves under wind action / J. Touboul and C. Kharif -- ch. 3. Progress in fully nonlinear potential flow modeling of 3D extreme ocean waves / S.T. Grilli [und weitere] -- ch. 4. Time domain simulation of nonlinear water waves using spectral methods / F. Bonnefoy [und weitere] -- ch. 5. QALE-FEM method and its application to the simulation of free-responses of floating bodies and overturning waves / Q.W. Ma and S. Yan -- ch. 6. Velocity calculation methods in finite element based MEL formulation / V. Sriram, S.A. Sannasiraj and V. Sundar -- ch. 7. High-order Boussinesq-type modelling of nonlinear wave phenomena in deep and shallow water / P.A. Madsen and D.R. Fuhrman -- ch. 8. Inter-comparisons of different forms of higher-order Boussinesq equations / Z.L. Zou, K.Z. Fang and Z.B. Liu -- ch. 9. Method of fundamental solutions for fully nonlinear water waves / D.-L. Young, N.-J. Wu and T.-K. Tsay -- ch. 10. Application of the finite volume method to the simulation of nonlinear water waves / D. Greaves -- ch. 11. Developments in multi-fluid finite volume free surface capturing method / D.M. Causon, C.G. Mingham and L. Qian -- ch. 12. Numerical computation methods for strongly nonlinear wave-body interactions / M. Kashiwagi, C. Hu and M. Sueyoshi -- ch. 13. Smoothed particle hydrodynamics for water waves / R.A. Dalrymple [und weitere] -- ch. 14. Modelling nonlinear water waves with RANS and LES SPH models / R. Issa [und weitere] -- ch. 15. MLPG_R method and Its application to various nonlinear water waves / Q.W. Ma -- ch. 16. Large Eddy simulation of the hydrodynamics generated by breaking waves / P. Lubin and J.-P. Caltagirone -- ch. 17. Recent advances in turbulence modeling for unsteady breaking waves / Q. Zhao and S.W. Armfield -- ch. 18. Freak waves and their interaction with ships and offshore structures / G.F. Clauss

The Interaction of Ocean Waves and Wind
The Interaction of Ocean Waves and Wind

Author: Peter Janssen

Publisher: Cambridge University Press

Published: 2004-10-28

Total Pages: 310

ISBN-13: 0521465400

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This book was published in 2004. The Interaction of Ocean Waves and Wind describes in detail the two-way interaction between wind and ocean waves and shows how ocean waves affect weather forecasting on timescales of 5 to 90 days. Winds generate ocean waves, but at the same time airflow is modified due to the loss of energy and momentum to the waves; thus, momentum loss from the atmosphere to the ocean depends on the state of the waves. This volume discusses ocean wave evolution according to the energy balance equation. An extensive overview of nonlinear transfer is given, and as a by-product the role of four-wave interactions in the generation of extreme events, such as freak waves, is discussed. Effects on ocean circulation are described. Coupled ocean-wave, atmosphere modelling gives improved weather and wave forecasts. This volume will interest ocean wave modellers, physicists and applied mathematicians, and engineers interested in shipping and coastal protection.