Long Shore Currents and Wave Statistics in the Surf Zone
Long Shore Currents and Wave Statistics in the Surf Zone

Author: J. Ian Collins

Publisher:

Published: 1972

Total Pages: 136

ISBN-13:

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The report investigates some of the physical aspects of the surf zone with random seas. The statistics of wave height distributions are investigated for the surf zone over gentle sloping beaches. Longshore currents and wave set-up due to random seas are computed and compared with results for periodic waves. The mathematical stability of steady longshore currents on plane beaches is investigated and it is found that such solutions are unstable. (Author).

Encyclopedia of Coastal Science
Encyclopedia of Coastal Science

Author: M. Schwartz

Publisher: Springer Science & Business Media

Published: 2006-11-08

Total Pages: 1243

ISBN-13: 1402038801

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This new Encyclopedia of Coastal Science stands as the latest authoritative source in the field of coastal studies, making it the standard reference work for specialists and the interested lay person. Unique in its interdisciplinary approach. This Encyclopedia features contributions by 245 well-known international specialists in their respective fields and is abundantly illustrated with line-drawings and photographs. Not only does this volume offer an extensive number of entries, it also includes various appendices, an illustrated glossary of coastal morphology and extensive bibliographic listings.

Sandy Beach Morphodynamics
Sandy Beach Morphodynamics

Author: Derek Jackson

Publisher: Elsevier

Published: 2020-05-20

Total Pages: 814

ISBN-13: 0081029276

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Sandy beaches represent some of the most dynamic environments on Earth and examining their morphodynamic behaviour over different temporal and spatial scales is challenging, relying on multidisciplinary approaches and techniques. Sandy Beach Morphodynamics brings together the latest research on beach systems and their morphodynamics and the ways in which they are studied in 29 chapters that review the full spectrum of beach morphodynamics. The chapters are written by leading experts in the field and provide introductory level understanding of physical processes and resulting landforms, along with more advanced discussions.

Bed Shear Stress Coefficient Within the Surf Zone
Bed Shear Stress Coefficient Within the Surf Zone

Author: Carlos Severino Veitia Garcia

Publisher:

Published: 1977

Total Pages: 122

ISBN-13:

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An analytical formulation of the bed shear stress coefficient inside the surf zone is derived using the concept of radiation stress. A truncated Rayleigh p.d.f. is used to describe the wave field inside the surf zone and provides the input to calculate the variation of wave energy and longshore current as a function of wave height, water depth and distance to shore. The wave set-up is approximated using a sinusoidal wave solution. Field measurements of longshore current and waves within the surf zone are used to calculate the bed shear stress coefficient. Frequency distributions and statistics are calculated for the bed shear stress coefficient.

The Ecology of Sandy Shores
The Ecology of Sandy Shores

Author: A.C. Brown

Publisher: Elsevier

Published: 2010-07-27

Total Pages: 387

ISBN-13: 0080465099

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The Ecology of Sandy Shores provides the students and researchers with a one-volume resource for understanding the conservation and management of the sandy shore ecosystem. Covering all beach types, and addressing issues from the behavioral and physiological adaptations of the biota to exploring the effects of pollution and the impact of man's activities, this book should become the standard reference for those interested in Sandy Shore study, management and preservation. - More than 25% expanded from the previous edition - Three entirely new chapters: Energetics and Nutrient Cycling, Turtles and Terrestrial Vertebrates, and Benthic Macrofauna Populations - New sections on the interstitial environment, seagrasses, human impacts and coastal zone management - Examples drawn from virtually all parts of the world, considering all beach types from the most exposed to the most sheltered

Longshore Sand Transport Distribution Across the Surf Zone Due to Random Waves
Longshore Sand Transport Distribution Across the Surf Zone Due to Random Waves

Author: Saad Mesbah M. Abdelrahman

Publisher:

Published: 1983

Total Pages: 180

ISBN-13:

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Water waves are one of the principal causes of shoreline changes. When waves break along the shore, they release their energy and momentum and give rise to a longshore current. The longshore current, along with the stirring action of the waves, is the primary mechanism for longshore sediment transport. The longshore sand transport rate is an essential factor determining erosion or accretion along a coast. If the longshore sand transport rate can be accurately estimated, a quantitative picture of shoreline evolution can be evaluated, including changes of the shoreline due to marine structures. In the present study, analytical and numerical models are developed based on a longshore current model for random waves and a sediment transport formulation by Thornton to predict the cross-shore sediment transport distribution and to compute the total volume of sand transport rate. The model is compared with the field data acquired from Leadbetter Beach, Santa Barbara, California.