London Couture and the Making of a Fashion Centre

London Couture and the Making of a Fashion Centre

Author: Michelle Jones

Publisher: MIT Press

Published: 2022-04-12

Total Pages: 319

ISBN-13: 0262046571

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How design collaboration, networks, and narratives contributed to the establishment of a recognized English couture industry in the 1930s and 1940s. In the 1930s and 1940s, English fashion houses, spurred by economic and wartime crises, put London on the map as a major fashion city. In this book, Michelle Jones examines the creation of a London-based couture industry during these years, exploring how designer collaboration and the construction of specific networks and narratives supported and shaped the English fashion economy. Haute couture—the practice of creative made-to-measure womenswear—was widely regarded as inherently French. Jones shows how an English version emerged during a period of economic turbulence, when a group of designers banded together in a collective effort to shift power within the international fashion system. Jones considers the establishment of this form of English design practice, analyzing the commercial, social, and political factors that shaped the professional identity of the London couturiers. She focuses on collaborative activity that supported this form of elite, craft-based fashion production—from the prewar efforts of the Fashion Group of Great Britain to the wartime establishment of the Incorporated Society of London Fashion Designers, modeled loosely after French fashion’s governing body, the Chambre Syndicale de la Couture Parisienne. It was these collective efforts by couturiers that established and sustained London’s place as an internationally recognized center for creative fashion.


London Couture

London Couture

Author: Edwina Ehrman

Publisher: Victoria & Albert Museum

Published: 2015-10-20

Total Pages: 0

ISBN-13: 9781851778508

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An academically rigorous and beautiful new publication on a crucial chapter in fashion history, London Couture is the first book to examine, in detail, the luxurious garments produced by the rarefied London couture industry - from lavish ballgowns to sharply tailored suits and spectacular court dress - as well as the designers who conceived them, their clients and the prestigious publications that disseminated and promoted the 'London Look' to an international audience. Expert authors from around the world have delved into museum collections, as well as the archives of prestigious designers, textile suppliers and fashionable journals, to bring together this pioneering study of the London couture houses of the early to mid-twentieth century, renowned for their superb craftsmanship and attention to detail. The full breadth of London's offering is examined, from royal favourite Norman Hartnell to pioneer Charles James, and prestigious houses such as Lucile, Worth and Hardy Amies. The ancillary dressmaking trades in London are also considered, as are the international markets for London couture, and the impact of royal dress on high-end fashion. A wealth of visual material supports the extensive, original research - from beautiful features by celebrated photographer Norman Parkinson to the elegant illustrations of Francis Marshall. Previously unseen garments are illustrated throughout the book, alongside historical photography that documents the houses of the great designers, their favoured fabrics and their most glamorous clients, including Queen Elizabeth II, Margot Fonteyn, and many stars of stage and screen.


Wholesale Couture

Wholesale Couture

Author: Liz Tregenza

Publisher: Bloomsbury Publishing

Published: 2023-02-23

Total Pages: 257

ISBN-13: 1350245887

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The first book to consider the subject, Wholesale Couture: London and Beyond, 1930-70 seeks to revise the notion that wholesale couturiers were simply copyists and demonstrate the complexities of their design processes and business strategies. This term has fallen out of usage; however, it was used to describe the pinnacle of the British ready-to-wear fashion industry between the 1930s and 1960s. Companies within this sector have typically been recognised as creators of high-quality copies of French haute couture, using ready-to-wear techniques. Liz Tregenza traces wholesale couture garments from concept to usage, considering design, manufacture, branding, promotion, retail and export. She looks beyond the garments produced and investigates the people behind these firms, consequently demonstrating the significant role that largely Jewish immigrants played in the development and success of this industry. The book also considers the wider social and economic factors that affected manufacturers and consumers; the effect of austerity, rationing and the Utility scheme, and the pressing need for wholesale couturiers to export their products internationally. It demonstrates that 1946 was a critical year for re-building and re-imagining the London fashion industry and that wholesale couturiers were at the centre of these developments. Furthermore, it reveals the impact of changing consumer purchasing power, including the burgeoning youth market, for fashion manufacturers. Offering a new perspective on British fashion history, Wholesale Couture demonstrates that these couturiers were vital in cementing London's status as a ready-to-wear fashion centre.


London Uprising

London Uprising

Author: Tania Fares

Publisher: Phaidon Press

Published: 2017-02-13

Total Pages: 0

ISBN-13: 9780714873350

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An unprecedented and intimate behind-the-scenes look at London designer fashion over the last fifteen years, edited by Tania Fares and Sarah Mower and profiling 50 leading London fashion designers, from Paul Smith and Stella McCartney to Erdem and Simone Rocha. London has long been a fashion-world capital, and the past fifteen years have been an especially fertile period in its centuries-long history of setting trends. This stunning book is an all-access pass into the world of designer fashion - an exclusive behind-the-scenes studio tour that calls in on fifty of the city's leading design talents - London-based global superstars - all of whom open up about their practice and philosophy, and share a wealth of images from their rivate collections.


London

London

Author: Alistair O'Neill

Publisher: Reaktion Books

Published: 2007

Total Pages: 244

ISBN-13: 9781861893154

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A look at style and urbanism, offering a reconsideration of the role of fashion in city life and filling in overlooked gaps in the history of London and modern design.


Couture & Commerce

Couture & Commerce

Author: Alexandra Palmer

Publisher: UBC Press

Published: 2001

Total Pages: 368

ISBN-13: 9780774808262

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The 1950s were the golden years of haute couture, captured by iconic images of glamorous models wearing dramatic clothes. Yet the real women who wore these clothes adapted them to suit their own tastes, altered them to extend their life, and often could not bear to part with them long after the dresses had outlived their use. This gorgeously illustrated book demonstrates why so many of these designs are still in existence and why we are fascinated by them fifty years later. Couture and Commerce investigates how and why postwar couture fashion was important in its own day. The Paris couture houses survived due to the enthusiasm of the North American fashion press and commercial buyers. Alexandra Palmer traces the European haute couture trade with North America by following actual surviving couture dresses from the design house sketch, through the model used in New York fashion shows and as a template for copies and knock-offs, and finally to the consumer. Couture and Commerce is a remarkable mixture of accessible text, color photographs of the original garments, design house sketches and photographs, retailers’ advertisements, and society page images. Weaving together analysis of the clothes and interviews with those who traded, sold, and wore couture, Alexandra Palmer vividly recreates the 1950s fashion world.


Fashion

Fashion

Author: Christopher Breward

Publisher: OUP Oxford

Published: 2003-04-24

Total Pages: 272

ISBN-13: 0191587737

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This lively survey of 150 years of fashion covers everything from Haute Couture to the High Street, and developing fabric technology from silk to fleece. From Coco Chanel to Armani and Alexander McQueen, Breward explores fashion as a cultural phenomenon. Breward examines the glamorous world of Vogue and advertising, the relationship between fashion and film, and fashion as a business, and goes beyond the surface to consider our interaction with fashion. How have our ideas about hygiene and comfort influenced the direction of style? How does our dress create our identity and status? Details of dandies, flappers, and punks are contained within a clear overview of the period which will make you look at your clothes in a different light.


London 1945

London 1945

Author: Maureen Waller

Publisher: Macmillan

Published: 2006-06-13

Total Pages: 548

ISBN-13: 9780312338046

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Praise for "Ungrateful Daughters "Maureen Waller frames an absorbing narrative of the Glorious Revolution." - "The New York Times Book Review "This is a family drama reported with a keen ear for delicious, gossipy detail and a satisfying willingness to take sides." - "The Washington Times "A highly readable, thoroughly researched family saga that shows vividly how the personal and the political interacted to produce one of the seminal events in British history." - "Publishers Weekly "Colorful period details and vivid portraits of legendary figures like the great Duke of Marlborough: lively, instructive history." - "Kirkus Reviews "Waller's fluent narrative is solidly grounded." - "Library Journal "This is a wonderful biography that British historical buffs will enjoy and learn from." - "Midwest Book Review


DIY Couture

DIY Couture

Author: Rosie Martin

Publisher: Hachette UK

Published: 2012-05-07

Total Pages: 470

ISBN-13: 1780673957

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The DIY Couture collection is 10 stylish, easy to make pieces of clothing that can be endlessly reinvented in different fabrics, textures and colours. Anyone who enjoys sewing and creating something unique will love using this book to make their own couture wardrobe. The book begins with a Useful Techniques section, followed by Collections: inspirational photographs of the pieces styled different ways. Next, each of the 10 garments, from a Goddess dress to a cool romper suit and hoody, is clearly explained, including a spread showing all the variations (e.g. fastenings, necklines and hems) possible for each garment. Finally, clear step by step illustrations and photographs show you how each piece is made. With no complex sewing patterns, even beginners at sewing can make their own beautiful clothes. With simple, visual instructions and cool styling, DIY Couture will inspire people to join the handmade revolution. Where eco-fashion meets street style, this is the antithesis of fast-fashion. Absolutely no patterns required!


Everyday Fashion

Everyday Fashion

Author: Bethan Bide

Publisher: Bloomsbury Publishing

Published: 2023-12-28

Total Pages: 361

ISBN-13: 1350232467

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Ordinary clothes have extraordinary stories. In contrast to academic and curatorial focus on the spectacular and the luxurious, Everyday Fashion makes the case that your grandmother's wardrobe is an archive as interesting and important as any museum store. From the moment we wake and get dressed in the morning until we get undressed again in the evening, fashion is a central medium through which we experience the world and negotiate our place within it. Because of this, the ways that supposedly 'ordinary' and 'everyday' fashion objects have been designed, manufactured, worn, cared for, and remembered matters deeply to our historical understanding. Beginning at 1550 – the start of an era during which the word 'fashion' came to mean stylistic change rather than the act of making – each chapter explores the definition of everyday fashion and how this has changed over time, demonstrating innovative methodologies for researching the everyday. The variety and significance of everyday fashion cultures are further highlighted by a series of illustrated object biographies written by Britain's leading fashion curators, showcasing the rich diversity of everyday fashion in British museum collections. Collectively, this volume scratches below the glossy surface of fashion to expose the mechanics of fashion business, the hidden world of the workroom and the diversity and role of makers; and the experiences of consuming, wearing, and caring for ordinary clothes in the United Kingdom from the 16th century to the present day. In doing so it challenges readers to rethink how fashion systems evolve and to reassess the boundaries between fashion and dress scholarship.