This physical model study of absorbing and reflecting jetties at coastal inlets was conducted to provide data sets that would aid in the calibration and verification of numerical wave models. The study was performed in the Coastal Inlet Research Program's (CIRP) idealized inlet experimental basin at the U.S. Army Engineer Research and Development Center (ERDC), Coastal and Hydraulics Laboratory (CHL), Vicksburg, MS. Safe navigation, sediment transport into navigation channels, and shoreline erosion are all concerns at coastal inlets and are related to the transformation of waves as they change direction and height due to complex bathymetry and coastal inlet structures. The idealized inlet physical model, created for inlet studies, provided a facility in which to make wave measurements of height and direction and the associated wave-generated currents in enough detail to document the wave height and current variation in a region with complex interactions. Measurements of wave information included use of wave rods for wave height and acoustic Doppler velocity sensors for wave direction and current. Qualitative dye photographs and videos were also obtained.
Numerical and physical modeling studies were performed by the Coastal Inlets Research Program (CIRP) of the U.S. Army Corps of Engineers to investigate the spatial and temporal behavior of waves and wave-induced currents near jetties of an idealized coastal inlet. Hydrodynamics were examined in the vicinity of two extreme types of jetty structure: a highly absorbing jetty (resembling fairly porous rock rubble structure) and a fully reflective jetty (resembling a vertical sheet pile or caisson type breakwater). Laboratory experiments in a Froude scale of 1:50 were conducted with regular and irregular shore-normal (0 deg) and obliquely incident (20 deg) unidirectional waves. Current and wave measurements were made on the up-wave side and inside the inlet as well as in the bay, along a number of cross-shore and along-shore transects. Wave directions were measured by a remote-sensing video-camera system and Acoustic Doppler Velocimeters (ADV). Numerical modeling was performed with the Coastal Modeling System (CMS) consisting of a two-dimensional circulation model coupled to a spectral wave model. Calculated current and wave fields from CMS in the area around and between absorbing or reflected jetties were compared to measurements. The highly reflecting jetty created a circulation cell on the up-wave side of the inlet, whereas the absorbing jetty did not.
Data Analysis Methods in Physical Oceanography is a practical referenceguide to established and modern data analysis techniques in earth and oceansciences. This second and revised edition is even more comprehensive with numerous updates, and an additional appendix on 'Convolution and Fourier transforms'. Intended for both students and established scientists, the fivemajor chapters of the book cover data acquisition and recording, dataprocessing and presentation, statistical methods and error handling,analysis of spatial data fields, and time series analysis methods. Chapter 5on time series analysis is a book in itself, spanning a wide diversity oftopics from stochastic processes and stationarity, coherence functions,Fourier analysis, tidal harmonic analysis, spectral and cross-spectralanalysis, wavelet and other related methods for processing nonstationarydata series, digital filters, and fractals. The seven appendices includeunit conversions, approximation methods and nondimensional numbers used ingeophysical fluid dynamics, presentations on convolution, statisticalterminology, and distribution functions, and a number of importantstatistical tables. Twenty pages are devoted to references. Featuring:• An in-depth presentation of modern techniques for the analysis of temporal and spatial data sets collected in oceanography, geophysics, and other disciplines in earth and ocean sciences.• A detailed overview of oceanographic instrumentation and sensors - old and new - used to collect oceanographic data.• 7 appendices especially applicable to earth and ocean sciences ranging from conversion of units, through statistical tables, to terminology and non-dimensional parameters. In praise of the first edition: "(...)This is a very practical guide to the various statistical analysis methods used for obtaining information from geophysical data, with particular reference to oceanography(...)The book provides both a text for advanced students of the geophysical sciences and a useful reference volume for researchers." Aslib Book Guide Vol 63, No. 9, 1998 "(...)This is an excellent book that I recommend highly and will definitely use for my own research and teaching." EOS Transactions, D.A. Jay, 1999 "(...)In summary, this book is the most comprehensive and practical source of information on data analysis methods available to the physical oceanographer. The reader gets the benefit of extremely broad coverage and an excellent set of examples drawn from geographical observations." Oceanography, Vol. 12, No. 3, A. Plueddemann, 1999 "(...)Data Analysis Methods in Physical Oceanography is highly recommended for a wide range of readers, from the relative novice to the experienced researcher. It would be appropriate for academic and special libraries." E-Streams, Vol. 2, No. 8, P. Mofjelf, August 1999
Laboratory physical models are a valuable tool for coastal engineers. Physical models help us to understand the complex hydrodynamic processes occurring in the nearshore zone and they provide reliable and economic engineering design solutions.This book is about the art and science of physical modeling as applied in coastal engineering. The aim of the book is to consolidate and synthesize into a single text much of the knowledge about physical modeling that has been developed worldwide.This book was written to serve as a graduate-level text for a course in physical modeling or as a reference text for engineers and researchers engaged in physical modeling and laboratory experimentation. The first three chapters serve as an introduction to similitude and physical models, covering topics such as advantages and disadvantages of physical models, systems of units, dimensional analysis, types of similitude and various hydraulic similitude criteria applicable to coastal engineering models.Practical application of similitude principles to coastal engineering studies is covered in Chapter 4 (Hydrodynamic Models), Chapter 5 (Coastal Structure Models) and Chapter 6 (Sediment Transport Models). These chapters develop the appropriate similitude criteria, discuss inherent laboratory and scale effects and overview the technical literature pertaining to these types of models. The final two chapters focus on the related subjects of laboratory wave generation (Chapter 7) and measurement and analysis techniques (Chapter 8).
The handbook contains a comprehensive compilation of topics that are at the forefront of many of the technical advances in ocean waves, coastal, and ocean engineering. More than 110 internationally recognized authorities in the field of coastal and ocean engineering have contributed articles in their areas of expertise to this handbook. These international luminaries are from highly respected universities and renowned research and consulting organizations around the world.
This Proceedings contains 445 papers presented at the 30th International Conference on Coastal Engineering, which was held in San Diego, California, USA, 3-8 September 2006. The Proceedings is divided into five parts: Waves; Swash, Nearshore Currents, and Long Waves; Coastal Management, Risk, and Ecosystem Restoration; Sediment Transport and Morphology; and Coastal Structures. The individual papers cover a broad range of topics including theory, numerical and physical modeling, field measurements, case studies, design, and management. These papers provide engineers, scientists, and planners state-of-the-art information on coastal engineering and coastal processes.
Four-volume set of the proceedings of the September 1996 Conference which presented ongoing research, applications to design projects, and case histories of completed projects. Each volume has author and subject indexes and contains 375 chapters which discuss characteristics of coastal waves and currents; long period waves, storm surges and wave groups; coastal structures; coastal processes and sediment transport; and coastal, estuarine, and environmental problems. Annotation copyrighted by Book News, Inc., Portland, OR
