This is an indispensable and enlightening text by one of the most renowned art historians and design theorists, about the work of the great Marjan Unger. The Dutch art historian and jewellery expert Marjan Unger died back in 2018, at the age of seventy-two. Through her teaching and her myriad projects, exhibitions and publications, she influenced generations of jewellery artists and theorists in the applied disciplines. Yet one of her perhaps most enduring legacies is her doctoral thesis, Sieraad in Context, which she submitted in 2010.In her work, she endeavours to formulate a general definition of jewellery. Yet above all she also analyses to what extent jewellery is associated across the globe with different, sometimes contrary issues: in that all human fears but also desires have, in a sense, materialised around the world as objects of adornment.
In this richly illustrated book, art historian and design expert Marjan Unger tells the story of jewellery. She places jewels in the context of the people who wore them, their culture and their time, and interlaces surprising perspectives from art history, fashion theory and anthropology with the cultural, historical and social values and material characteristics of the jewellery. Unger advocates a universal approach to this cultural heritage that is being produced and worn all over the world. She uses the rich collection of the Rijksmuseum Amsterdam to guide and illustrate her comprehensive and gripping tale. Every piece of jewellery shines in its own way! Hence, every jewel is portrayed at its true size (sometimes with enlarged details) to show the intimacy of the jewel and its proportion to the human body. With this book, designer Irma Boom has set an iconic standard for jewellery publications. The book is a feast for the eye and an important reference work for anyone interested in jewellery, fashion and design.
"The women in Man Ray's life, as well as his reverence for the female form more broadly, were reflected in his jewellery. He kept the wearer in mind with each piece; never impractical or obtrusive, his jewels played with illusion, language and form as he employed the medium to further explore the artistic preoccupations of his career." Art as Jewellery is a visually stunning introduction to jewellery made by the titans of twentieth and twenty-first century art. From Salvador Dali, Man Ray, Alexander Calder and Pablo Picasso, through to Anish Kapoor, Damien Hirst and Grayson Perry, the great figures of modern art have all turned both thought and talent to jewellery. Often, they have eschewed the traditional jeweller's preoccupation with material value and provenance, more concerned with the conceptual or aesthetic significance of their work. As is fitting for a book that covers a range of artists, every image is as striking as it is unique. By using contemporary pictures, Art as Jewellery develops a chronological timeline of jewellery presentation. Its pages are home to a stunning variety of design sketches and photographs. Some were shot by renowned 20th century photographers, such as Ugo Mulas and Antonia Mulas, while others have been buried in archives for decades, unseen since the '60s. In contrast, modern works have been given model treatment by top photographer Alexander English, making this book a glamorous blend of new and classic jewellery art. AUTHOR: Author Louisa Guinness, collector and gallery owner, provides insightful commentary on each artist and their work. Her input can be felt on a personal level; having worked alongside many of these artists as they developed their jewellery, she is in the perfect position to reveal the personal stories behind these pieces creation. Full-page colour photographs and sketches, some showing the artist at work in the studio, or with their muse, accompany each profile. Louisa also explores each artist in the context of the genre's evolution, looking at the key exhibitions that have shaped the interest of artists and collectors. This book will be of interest to jewellery and art lovers alike. SELLING POINTS: * Includes an introduction by Vivienne Becker, an award-winning jewellery writer, and a contribution from Julia Peyton Jones, previous director of the Serpentine Gallery, London * A marvellous array of images, from archived photographs and sketches that have not been seen since the '60s, and the work of 20th-century photographers such as Ugo Mulas and Antonia Mulas, to modern shoots by Alexander English 200 colour images
What is contemporary jewelry? What makes it unique? What distinguishes these objects and practices from other visual arts? Contemporary Jewelry in Perspective provides clear definitions, concise history, and cultural context for the form, along with abundant illustrations of an amazing range of work. Featuring notable contributors from around the world, it offers fascinating discussions on creating, collecting, exhibiting, selling, and wearing these pieces, as well as individual essays that present a global perspective on the art over the past 30 to 40 years. Jewelers, designers, students, collectors, and historians will find this essential reading. The book is a joint venture between the Art Jewelry Forum (artjewelryforum.org) and Lark Jewelry & Beading.
This book brings together empirical and theoretical case-study research on art and heritage crime. Drawn from a diverse group of researchers and professionals, the work presented explores contemporary conceptualisations of art crime within broader contexts. In this volume, we see ‘art’ in its usual forms for art crime scholarship: in paintings and antiquities. However, we also see art in fossils and in violins, chairs and jewellery, holes in the ground and even in the institutions meant to protect any, or all, of the above. And where there is art, there is crime. Chapters in this volume, alternatively, zoom in on specific objects, on specific locations, and on specific institutions, considering how each interact with the various conceptions of crime that exist in those contexts. This volume challenges the boundaries of what we understand as “art and heritage crimes” and displays that both art, and criminality related to art, is creative and unpredictable.
Silver Treasures from the Land of Sheba documents a disappearing artistic and cultural tradition with over three hundred photographs showing individual pieces, rare images of women wearing their jewelry with traditional dress, and the various regions in Yemen where the author did her field research. Amulet cases, hair ornaments, bridal headdresses, earrings, necklaces, ankle and wrist bracelets are all beautifully photographed in intricate detail. A chapter on the history of silversmithing in Yemen tells the surprising story of the famed Jewish Yemeni silversmiths, many of whom left Yemen in the late 1940s.
The history of the world--triumphs and tragedies, breakthroughs and breakups--through the iconic jewels that have inspired and influenced since the dawn of time. From ancient treasures to royal weddings, great heists to the red carpet, this book is a stunning, surprising, and glittering tour of historic turning points and gem-driven drama, delving into the passions and predilections of some of the world's most interesting and extraordinary people. Starting in the era of Cleopatra and continuing through to contemporary jewelry statements by Jennifer Lopez, Lady Gaga, and Meghan Markle, Stellene Volandes tells the stories of how shiny stones and precious metals have determined empires, inspired expeditions and great crime, and been the communicator of status and ruin since ancient times. Each moment is placed in historic and relevant context, with Volandes drawing engaging parallels between Napoleon's gift to Marie Louise at the birth of their son and the modern push present or the insouciant story behind the brooch Jackie Kennedy famously wore to a 1962 State Dinner with the Shah of Iran. Illustrated with a mix of archival images and gorgeous photography of the jewels, this book is a beautiful, informative, and essential read for history lovers, fashion, celebrity, and pop-culture followers, as well as passionate jewel hounds.
As beautiful as it is useful, Understanding Northwest Coast Indigenous Jewelry is an invaluable tool for anyone interested in learning about or deepening their understanding of a fascinating craft. Indigenous hand-engraved jewelry from the Pacific Northwest Coast is among the most distinctive, innovative, and highly sought-after art being produced in North America today. But these artworks are more than just stunning--every bracelet, ring, and pendant is also the product of a fascinating backstory, a specialized set of techniques, and a talented artist. With a clearly written text, a foreword by award-winning First Nations artist orrine Hunt, and more than one hundred striking color photographs and sidebars, nderstanding Northwest Coast Indigenous Jewelry offers an illuminating look at an exquisite craft and the context in which it is practiced. Providing a step-by-step overview of various techniques, the book also introduces the specifics o formline design, highlights the traits of the most common animal symbols ued, offers tips for identification, and features biographies and works from over fifty of the Coast's best-known jewelers. Finally, it delves into the history of theart form, from the earliest horn and copper cuff bracelets to cutting-edge contemporaryworks and everything in between.
The Napier Jewelry book is a visual encyclopedia of Napier Costume Jewelry. It tells the heretofore untold and phenomenal story of The Napier Co. inception, development, flowering, and ultimate success. It chronicles the history of its management, manufacturing, marketing, and most importantly, the unparalleled beauty of Napier fashion jewelry. With approximately 4000 pictures of Napier jewelry history and over 250,000 words of text and descriptions, you will be taken step-by-step, decade by decade, through the development of the Napier style. As a collector, you will learn to recognize the findings, materials, and designs to appropriately circa-date the Napier jewelry in which you are investing. As a lover of vintage costume jewelry, you will enjoy the drama and excitement of the trials, tribulations, and breakthroughs at each stage of the Napier journey. In the end, you will have a deep and lasting appreciation of the romantic story infused into the metal, gemstones, crystals, cabochons, and elegance of each piece of Napier jewelry that you own or are considering owning
