This is a book for every climber keen to improve their climbing. It includes a progressive series of exercises from simple to more complex movements to practice at your local climbing wall, crag, boulders or at home to improve all aspects of your climbing. The book also offers safety advice.
Drawing on new research in sports medicine, nutrition, and fitness, this book offers a training program to help any climber achieve superior performance and better mental concentration on the rock, with less risk of injury.
This book was originally published in 2013 as an ebook on the Climb Strong site. I added it to the book Strength as an appendix, under the name of "Successful Sessions: 34 Training Tips for Successful Rock Climbing." I had originally written it as ten tips, then fixed on twenty five. By the time I'd finished, I stopped at the nice, round number of 34.Since that time, my learning and communicating with more accomplished coaches and climbers has increased substantially. In fact, there are many days that I do little at my normal job (running the gym), and instead spend hours communicating with climbers. This has been a hard transition, made easier by the efforts of my wife, Ellen, as well as Charlie Manganiello, Shelby Duncan, Kevin Wallingford, and Emily Tilden, who keep Elemental running and improving. I am pleased to admit that I am now the worst coach at the gym.When I looked at the updated list in the fall of 2015, I saw that we had collected well over a hundred tips, from one-line reminders to full-life plans. Over the winter of 2016/17, we whittled the tips down to exactly 100, and tried to keep them short and to the point. This is not so much a book to read in one sitting, but rather one to take in one or two tips at a time.This book is free to download with a paid membership to our site.
The definitive practical guide to improving your rock climbing technique, and making your movement more effortless and efficient. Fully illustrated with over 35 skills exercises supported by online videos. Suitable for rock climbers from intermediate up to elite in sport climbing, bouldering and traditional climbing.
A dynamic package of training material from a pair of expert coaches, The Self-Coached Climber offers comprehensive instruction, from the basics of gripping holds to specific guidelines for developing a customized improvement plan. Hague and Hunter base their methods on the four fundamental components of all human movement--balance, force, time, and space--and explain how to apply these principles to achieve efficient results. The DVD presents live demonstrations of training exercises and features an original documentary of a 5.14a/b redpoint attempt by Adam Stack and Chris Lindner. Self-Coached Climber was named a finalist in the Mountain Exposition Category at the 2007 Banff Mountain Festival.
"9 out of 10 climbers are stuck. They are stuck on the same things. Some of the things that hold climbers back from improving their climbing standard are the same as they were twenty years ago: motivation, managing time, and not being able to analyse and correct their own basic technical or tactical errors. But they are also stuck for a new set of reasons. Twenty years ago, the problem was that no one knew how to train for climbing. Information was scarce and couldn't travel fast among the participants. Today, it's the opposite problem. Book after book lists techniques for climbing, exercises for climbing, tips for climbing. Navigating this barrage of information, filtering out the irrelevant and homing in on what matters to your life, your climbing and your circumstances has been the limiting step for today's climber."--Page 4 of cover.
'When it comes to training for climbing, you are your own experiment.' Beastmaking by Ned Feehally is a book about training for climbing. It is designed to provide normal people – like you and me – with the tools we need to get the most out of our climbing. It is written by one of the world's top climbers and a co-founder of Beastmaker. It features sections on finger strength, fingerboarding, board training, mobility and core, and includes suggested exercises and workouts. There are insights from some of the world's top climbers, including Alex Honnold, Shauna Coxsey, Adam Ondra, Alex Puccio and Tomoa Narasaki. Free from jargon, it is intended to provide enough information for us to work out what we need to train, and to help us to train it.
Presents training principles for the multisport mountain athlete who regularly participates in a mix of distance running, ski mountaineering, and other endurance sports that require optimum fitness and customized strength
Training for climbing can be fun, but sticking to a schedule can be desperately hard. Many climbers have seen the value of a carefully planned out, periodized training program. Clearly, such programs work, but many of us can't stick to such a rigid schedule. What if there were a better way? What if there were a more flexible way of planning that provided the same great results? And what if such a program allowed you to maintain high levels of climbing performance much longer than you could on a traditional program? For the climber that has limited time to train, there may be no better program than Logical Progression. For anyone who wants to get fit and stay fit for long trips and redpoint seasons, the program outlined in this book can give you a great advantage. Based on solid science and tested by hundreds of climbers, Logical Progression is a simple and very effective way of organizing your training, and making sure that progress keeps coming.
As Wolfgang Gullich said, getting strong is easy, getting strong without getting injured is hard . Sooner or later, nearly all climbers get injured and it will be injuries that ultimately dictate how far you get in climbing, if you let them. Unfortunately, the data shows it takes over a decade just to get small proportions of medical research adopted in regular practice. Sourcing reliable and up to date advice on preventing and treating finger, elbow, shoulder and other climbing injuries is challenging to say the least. You need to be the expert, because there are so many strands of knowledge and practice to pull together to stay healthy as a climber, and no single source of advice to cover all of these. The book draws together both the cutting edge of peer reviewed sports medicine research, and the subtle concepts of changing your climbing habits and routine to prevent and successfully recover from injuries. It is a handbook on how to take care of yourself as a lifelong climbing athlete. By spanning the fields of climbing coaching, physiotherapy, sports medicine and behavioural science, it goes beyond the general advice on treating symptoms offered by sports medicine textbooks and into much more detail on technique and habits specific to climbing than the existing climbing literature base. You will learn how your current climbing habits are already causing your future injuries and what you can do to change that. If you are already injured, it will prevent you from prolonging your injury with the wrong climbing habits and rehabilitation choices. You will learn how the ingredients of prevention and good recovery come from wildly different sources and how you have been using only a fraction of them. Fully referenced throughout, the practical advice for diagnosis, rehabilitation and prevention of climbing injuries is drawn from up to date peer reviewed sports medicine research.