Explains contemporary changes in making fashionable garments accessible to all classes of women, culminating in mass production of women's ready-to-wear.
The first edition of this book established itself as required reading for all those interested in the development of the fashion business. There are other books on contemporary dress, but this account gives particular weight to the commercial organization of the industry; from designer and textile manufacturer right through to the consumer. This completely revised edition brings the story up to the 1990s with new text, 280 illustrations and 16 color plates. Fashion in this century has ceased to be the private domain of the wealthy. The era when such names as Worth, Paquin and Sciaparelli could dominate has given way to one where style and 'look' can be taken from a host of various sources: designers and manufacturers, department and chain stores, the boutiques or the streets. This established reference work looks behind the scenes for an understanding of the social, economic and technical changes that have caused this revolution. It is a story of fashion shocks: two world wars, the impact of new fibers and manufacturing techniques, and the succession of youth explosions: mini-skirts, punk and sportswear. The narrative is based on research into the history of couture houses, retailers and manufacturers and the authors' experience and contact with the fashion business.
Late legendary couturiers of modern fashion speaking eloquently about life, design, and inspiration. Vionnet, Chanel, Dior, Saint Laurent, McQueen—these names define haute couture, and long after the designers have passed away, their influence on fashion continues to be profound. In an exceptional compilation of the original words of these couturiers, Couture Confessions provides a unique and in-depth look at the lives and work of these fashion icons. In this engaging, beautifully designed book, Pamela Golbin, acclaimed chief curator of twentieth-century fashion and textiles at Paris’s Musée des Arts Décoratifs, has ingeniously constructed conversations in the designers’ own words that highlight their compelling personal stories as well as essential fashion "moments"—from designers Paul Poiret, Cristóbal Balenciaga, Madame Grès, Alexander McQueen, Madeleine Vionnet, and Gabrielle Chanel to Elsa Schiaparelli, Yves Saint Laurent, Jeanne Lanvin, Pierre Balmain, and Christian Dior.Featuring striking illustrations by internationally recognized illustrator Yann Legendre, each "interview" asks the questions every fashion lover has always wanted to ask, making these legends approachable, human, and ever more inspiring.
Americans began the twentieth century standing in Europe's sartorial shadow, yet ended by outfitting the world in blue jeans, T-shirts and sneakers. How did this come about? What changes in American culture were reflected in fashion? What role did popular culture play?This important overview of American fashion in the twentieth century considers how Americans went from imitating British and French fashion to developing their own sense of style. It examines such influences on dress as class, jazz and hip hop, war, the space race, movies, television and sports. Further, the book shows how gender, psychology, advertising, public policy, shifting family values, the American design movement and expertise in mass production profoundly influenced an American style that has been exported across the globe. From New York City's Bohemians to Hollywood's stars, Twentieth-Century American Fashion reveals the continuing importance of clothing to American identity and individual experience.
This new edition of a bestselling textbook is designed for students, scholars, and anyone interested in 20th century fashion history. Accessibly written and well illustrated, the book outlines the social and cultural history of fashion thematically, and contains a wide range of global case studies on key designers, styles, movements and events. The new edition has been revised and expanded: there are new sections on eco-fashion, fashion and the museum, major changes in the fashion market in the 21st century (including the impact of new media and retailing networks), new technologies, fashion weeks, the rise of asian fashion centers and more. There are twice as many illustrations. In its second edition, A Cultural History of Fashion in the 20th and 21st Centuries is the ideal introductory text for all students of fashion.
'Icons of Fashion' is a graphically exciting exploration of the history of fashion in the 20th century. Together with entertaining and insightful texts, double-page layouts divide the century into eleven stylistic periods.