The Cambridge Global History of Fashion: Volume 1

The Cambridge Global History of Fashion: Volume 1

Author: Christopher Breward

Publisher: Cambridge University Press

Published: 2023-07-31

Total Pages: 849

ISBN-13: 1108851487

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Volume I surveys the long history of fashion from the ancient world to c. 1800. The volume seeks to answer fundamental questions on the origins of fashion, challenging Eurocentric explanations that the emergence of fashion was a European phenomenon and shows instead that fashion found early expressions across the globe well before the age of European colonialism and imperialism. It sheds light on how fashion was experienced in a multitude of ways depending on class, gender, and race, and despite geographical distance, fashion connected populations across the globe. Fashions flowered and were reseeded, through entanglements of empire, forced and voluntary migration, evolving racial systems, burgeoning sea travel and transcontinental systems.


Clothing

Clothing

Author: Robert Ross

Publisher: Polity

Published: 2008-07-08

Total Pages: 230

ISBN-13: 0745631878

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In virtually all the countries of the world, men, and to a lesser extent women, are today dressed in very similar clothing. This book gives a compelling account and analysis of the process by which this has come about. At the same time it takes seriously those places where, for whatever reason, this process has not occurred, or has been reversed, and provides explanations for these developments. The first part of this story recounts how the cultural, political and economic power of Europe and, from the later nineteenth century North America, has provided an impetus for the adoption of whatever was at that time standard Western dress. Set against this, Robert Ross shows how the adoption of European style dress, or its rejection, has always been a political act, performed most frequently in order to claim equality with colonial masters, more often a male option, or to stress distinction from them, which women, perhaps under male duress, more frequently did. The book takes a refreshing global perspective to its subject, with all continents and many countries being discussed. It investigates not merely the symbolic and message-bearing aspects of clothing, but also practical matters of production and, equally importantly, distribution.


Fashion

Fashion

Author: Joanne Finkelstein

Publisher: NYU Press

Published: 1998-03

Total Pages: 136

ISBN-13: 0814726828

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With epigrams from Genesis to Oscar Wilde, Finkelstein examines the historical, social, psychological, and economic seams of haute couture fashion as reflected in the wide-ranging index entries: anthropology, Barbie doll, cinema, feminism, globalization, Lauren (Ralph), psychoanalysis, upward mobility, and zoot suits. Originally published by Melbourne U. Press, 1996. Annotation copyrighted by Book News, Inc., Portland, OR


Clothing the Poor in Nineteenth-Century England

Clothing the Poor in Nineteenth-Century England

Author: Vivienne Richmond

Publisher: Cambridge University Press

Published: 2013-09-19

Total Pages: 359

ISBN-13: 1107042275

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A pioneering study of the importance of dress to the collective and individual identities of the nineteenth-century English poor.


Out of Line

Out of Line

Author: Margaret Maynard

Publisher: UNSW Press

Published: 2001

Total Pages: 220

ISBN-13: 9780868405155

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Shows how Australian women have created their own sense of national and regional identity through their dress and in so doing puts a new slant on the history of Australian women's fashion in the twentieth century. This book argues that Australian women's fashions may be superficially derivative, but that there are patterns of dress.


Fashion and Art

Fashion and Art

Author: Adam Geczy

Publisher: Berg

Published: 2013-08-15

Total Pages: 259

ISBN-13: 0857852140

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For at least two centuries, fashion and art have maintained a competitive love-hate relationship. Both fashion and art construct imaginary worlds, and use a language of style to invigorate beliefs, perceptions and ideas. Until now the crossovers of fashion and art have received only scattered treatment and suffered from a dearth of theorization. As an attempt to theorize the area, this collection of new and updated essays is the most well-rounded and authoritative to date. Some of the world's foremost scholars in the field are assembled here to explore the art-fashion nexus in numerous ways: from aesthetics and performance to masquerade and media. Original and inspiring, this book will not only secure 'art-fashion' as a discrete area of study, but also suggest new critical pathways for exploring their continuing cross-pollination. Fashion and Art is essential reading for students and scholars of fashion, art history and theory, cultural studies and related fields.


The Hidden History of the Smock Frock

The Hidden History of the Smock Frock

Author: Alison Toplis

Publisher: Bloomsbury Publishing

Published: 2021-04-22

Total Pages: 223

ISBN-13: 1350126136

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Winner of the Association of Dress Historians Book of the Year Award, 2022 Traditionally associated with rural ways of life in England, often hand-crafted and held up as one of the only items of English folk dress to survive into the 20th century, the smock frock is an object of curiosity in many museum collections. Drawing on a wide variety of sources from surviving garments to newspapers and photographs, this book reveals the hidden history of the smock frock to present new social histories. Discussing the smock frock in its widest contexts, Alison Toplis explores how garments were handmade and manufactured by the ready-made clothing industry, and bought by men of different trades. She traces the smock frock's usage across England as well as in export markets such as Australia. Following the garment's decline in the late 19th century, the book investigates how this essentially utilitarian style of workwear came to be held up as an example of disappearing 'peasant' craft in an emotional response to urbanisation, and how it was preserved by collectors under the influence of the Arts and Crafts movement. Around the turn of the 20th century, the smock frock was reinvented as both women's and children's wear and is now regularly revived in fashion collections by the likes of Molly Goddard. Drawing together extensive visual and material cultures, Alison Toplis unravels a new history of the smock frock.


Dress Behind Bars

Dress Behind Bars

Author: Juliet Ash

Publisher: Bloomsbury Publishing

Published: 2009-11-30

Total Pages: 346

ISBN-13: 085773217X

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From nineteenth-century broad arrows and black and white stripes to twenty first-century orange jumpsuits, prison clothing has both mirrored and bolstered the power of penal institutions over prisoners' lives. Vividly illustrated and based on original research, including throughout the voices of the incarcerated, this book is a pioneering history and investigation of prison dress, which demystifies the experience of what it is like to be an imprisoned criminal. Juliet Ash takes the reader on a journey from the production of prison clothing to the bodies of its wearers. She uncovers a history characterized by waves of reform, sandwiched between regimes that use clothing as punishment and discovers how inmates use their dress to surmount, subvert or survive these punishment cultures. She reveals the hoods, the masks, and pink boxer shorts, near nakedness, even twenty first-century 'civvies' to be not just other types of uniform but political embodiments of the surveillance of everyday life.


The Handbook of Fashion Studies

The Handbook of Fashion Studies

Author: Sandy Black

Publisher: A&C Black

Published: 2014-01-02

Total Pages: 732

ISBN-13: 1472577434

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The Handbook of Fashion Studies identifies an innovative spectrum of thematic approaches, key strands and interdisciplinary concepts that continue to push forward the boundaries of fashion studies. The book is divided into seven sections: Fashion, Identity and Difference; Spaces of Fashion; Fashion and Materiality; Fashion, Agency and Policy; Science, Technology and New fashion; Fashion and Time and, Sustainable Fashion in a Globalised world. Each section consists of approximately four essays authored by established researchers in the field from the UK, USA, Netherlands, Sweden, Canada and Australia. The essays are written by international subject specialists who each engage with their section's theme in the light of their own discipline and provide clear case-studies to further knowledge on fashion. This consistency provides clarity and permits comparative analysis. The handbook will be essential reading for students of fashion as well as professionals in the industry.