Draping is a technique that involves working with fabric directly on the mannequin. This publication is a practical step by step guide for students and fashion professionals who want to delve deeper into this technique used by big industry names. In this process, creative freedom plays a more important and less rigid role than patterns and drawings on paper do.
Second edition of the first volume of our series of practical manuals about the basics of the art of draping, a fashion technique that involves working with fabric and toile directly on the mannequin.
Draping—the art of using cotton muslin to create womenswear directly on a dress form—is an essential skill for fashion designers. Through a series of step-by-step projects, designed to develop skills from the most basic to more advanced techniques, this book will guide you in creating both classic and contemporary garments, as well as historical styles and costumes. Draping projects include dresses, bustiers, and jackets, and highlight key fashion garments such as Audrey Hepburn's dress from Breakfast at Tiffany’s and the Dolce & Gabbana tuxedo jacket. Starting with the basics of choosing and preparing the dress form for draping, the book advances through pinning, trimming, and clipping, and creating shape using darts and tucks, to adding volume using pleats and gathers, and handling complex curves. Advanced skills include how to use support elements such as shoulder pads, under layers, and petticoats, and how to handle bias draping. The book culminates with a chapter on improvisational skills. Each skill and technique throughout the book is explained with step-by-step photographs and line drawings that bring the art of creating womenswear in three dimensions to life.
This is the complete guide to pattern cutting for special occasion clothes: party dresses and eveningwear. With step-by-step instructions and clear, informative diagrams, Dawn Cloake shows how to develop the basic design blocks to create a wide range of designs, encouraging you to 'mix and match' elements to create your own unique garments. Special features include tips on combining pattern cutting with modelling techniques and advice on using stretch fabrics. Design elements include: sleeveless bodices, backless bodices, wrapover bodices, ruched bodices, flare skirts, full skirts, set-in sleeves, yoked trousers, jersey dresses, Empire line dresses, low necklines, wide necklines, draped bodices, close-fit skirts, godets, close-fitting sleeves, short sleeves, tapered trousers, bias-cut dresses, strapless dresses, hipsters, plunge necklines, asymmetrical bodices, strapless bodices, draped necklines, fishtail skirts, separate sleeves, jackets, high-waisted trousers, panelled dresses, backless dresses and waistbands.
Fashion designers are presented with a range of methods and concepts for pattern cutting are presented, the main body of these methods, both traditional and contemporary, is predominately based on a theoretical approximation of the body that is derived from horizontal and vertical measurements of the body in an upright position: the tailoring matrix. As a consequence, there is a lack of interactive and dynamic qualities in methods connected to this paradigm of garment construction, from both expressional and functional perspectives. This work proposes and explores an alternative paradigm for pattern cutting that includes a new theoretical approximation of the body as well as a more kinetic method for garment construction that, unlike the prevalent theory and its related methods, takes as its point of origin the interaction between the anisotropic fabric and the biomechanical structure of the body. As such, the research conducted here is basic research, aiming to identify fundamental principles for garment construction. Based on some key principles found in the works of Geneviève Sevin-Doering and in pre-tailoring methods for constructing garments, the proposed theory for – and method of – garment construction was developed through concrete experiments by cutting and draping fabrics on live models. Instead of a static matrix of a non-moving body, the result is a kinetic construction theory of the body that is comprised of balance directions and key biomechanical points, along with an alternative draping method for dressmaking. This methodology challenges the fundamental relationship between dress, garment construction, and the body, working from the body outward, as opposed to the methods that are based on the prevalent paradigm of the tailoring matrix, which work from the outside toward the body. This alternative theory for understanding the body and the proposed method of working allows for diverse expressions and enhanced functional possibilities in dress.
Advanced Creative Draping teaches designers and students how to drape fashion-forward, conceptual designs that use elements of couture construction to elevate the work to the highest level of fashion. Five methods of draping are explored as well as draping using embellishments or particular surface designs. The final chapter demonstrates how to create a high quality heirloom garment. Featuring specially commissioned step-by-step photography, the book includes tips from designers working with draping methods today. Essentially an advanced textbook for the serious fashion student, it also serves as a workroom reference book for professional fashion and costume designers.
This book is a manual that opens up an area that functions as an interesting, supplementary design niche within today's fashion design. Collected by two Dutch experts in this craftsmanship: Annette Duburg and Rixt van der Tol. It includes the historical context of draping, contemporary examples by fashion designers, a large section on all aspects of draping (of all clothing components on the most common variations) and the use of draping by well-known fashion designers from 1900 to the present day.
Pattern Magic is the cult pattern-cutting book from Japan. Taking inspiration from nature, from geometric shapes and from the street, this book harnesses the sheer joy of making and sculpting clothes. Pattern Magic takes a creative approach to pattern cutting, with step-by-step projects for fashion designers and dressmakers to enjoy. All the basic information you need to start pattern cutting is included, from the basic block to measurements and scaling. Each project is beautifully illustrated with clear diagrams and photographs showing the stages of construction, the toiles and the finished garments. These easy-to-follow illustrations and detailed instructions make it easy to create stunning, sculptural clothes with a couture look. Step-by-step projects for fashion designers and dressmakers - with clear diagrams and photographs. Gives all the basic information needed to start pattern cutting: from the basic block to measurements and scaling. Easy-to-follow, detailed instructions make it easy to create stunning, sculptural clothes with a couture look Reviews for Pattern Magic: 'The feeling of figuring the puzzle out makes this book series a joy to explore' House of Pinheiro 'If you've mastered the basics of pattern cutting, have caught the bug and are eager to experiment with complex 3d designs, you should definitely take a look at Pattern Magic' Tilly And The Buttons Blog 'I've had an explosion of inspiration, and I'm not even an expert in sewing!...I'm sure that many of you, fashion designers or not, can learn a lot from these tutorials' ImaginativeBloom.com CONTENTS: Part 1: Creating form through inspiration: Accents, Gathered hole, Crater, The drop hole, Lumps and bumps Part 2: Making patterns for haute couture garments: Draped design, The twist, Hide and seek, Interwoven design, Bamboo shoot, The knot, Two distinct expressions, An intriguing curve, Bunka-style sloper (block) for an adult woman, Bunka-style sloper (block) for an adult woman (Size M) (half-scale)
Draping is the art of manipulating fabric directly on the dress form. It is the most creative way for a designer to turn design ideas into reality. Start by learning the basics, including how to use a dress form and how to prepare the muslin for draping. You will then move on to learn how to drape basic bodices, including a range of darts and necklines, and also basic skirts, and finally dresses. Each lesson in the book is illustrated in meticulous detail in a series of step-by-step photographs accompanied by photos from the runway.
