This book is a manual that opens up an area that functions as an interesting, supplementary design niche within today's fashion design. Collected by two Dutch experts in this craftsmanship: Annette Duburg and Rixt van der Tol. It includes the historical context of draping, contemporary examples by fashion designers, a large section on all aspects of draping (of all clothing components on the most common variations) and the use of draping by well-known fashion designers from 1900 to the present day.
Draping: Art and Craftsmanship in Fashion Design is a practical manual on draping or moulage, as it is known in France. Draping is a three-dimensional design and production technique that permits a considerable degree of design freedom. In addition to giving a method for draping basic forms of garments, this book includes the historical context of draping (a technique frequently used in couture), together with examples from fashion designers past and present, such as: Worth, Vionnet, Gres, Dior, Yamamoto. Specialists Annette Duburg and Rixt van der Tol have used their extensive collection of practical manuscripts to provide clear sets of instructions for achieving specific effects.
Draping—the art of using cotton muslin to create womenswear directly on a dress form—is an essential skill for fashion designers. Through a series of step-by-step projects, designed to develop skills from the most basic to more advanced techniques, this book will guide you in creating both classic and contemporary garments, as well as historical styles and costumes. Draping projects include dresses, bustiers, and jackets, and highlight key fashion garments such as Audrey Hepburn's dress from Breakfast at Tiffany’s and the Dolce & Gabbana tuxedo jacket. Starting with the basics of choosing and preparing the dress form for draping, the book advances through pinning, trimming, and clipping, and creating shape using darts and tucks, to adding volume using pleats and gathers, and handling complex curves. Advanced skills include how to use support elements such as shoulder pads, under layers, and petticoats, and how to handle bias draping. The book culminates with a chapter on improvisational skills. Each skill and technique throughout the book is explained with step-by-step photographs and line drawings that bring the art of creating womenswear in three dimensions to life.
With step-by-step written instructions, 'Draping Basics' provides the fundamentals of designing foundation garments by draping fabric on a dress form. Photographs demonstrate the details of the process, and CAD drawings show how the draping is transferred to paper patterns.
This practical book explains how to achieve great designs and creative cuts by seeing ideas come to life three dimensionally. By manipulating and pinning fabric on the dress form or house model, fashion designers can visualise their ideas and become more confident with their own creative visions. This new book includes advice on how to measure the body, as well as prepare the mannequin and fabric; it explains the draping process in detail with step-by-step instructions and practical tips throughout. It gives advice on working at half scale and provides calico preparation diagrams. Finally, there are chapters which introduce new design elements and/or garment type, and covers dresses, skirts, shirts and blouses. Written by a leading designer, Draping for Fashion Design is an essential guide to this skill (also known as 'moulage'), and explains how the fashion designer can understand their designs more fully, as well as the fabric and the garment's fit, in order to achieve impressive and sometimes unexpected results.
Advanced Creative Draping teaches designers and students how to drape fashion-forward, conceptual designs that use elements of couture construction to elevate the work to the highest level of fashion. Five methods of draping are explored as well as draping using embellishments or particular surface designs. The final chapter demonstrates how to create a high quality heirloom garment. Featuring specially commissioned step-by-step photography, the book includes tips from designers working with draping methods today. Essentially an advanced textbook for the serious fashion student, it also serves as a workroom reference book for professional fashion and costume designers.
Fashion designers are presented with a range of methods and concepts for pattern cutting are presented, the main body of these methods, both traditional and contemporary, is predominately based on a theoretical approximation of the body that is derived from horizontal and vertical measurements of the body in an upright position: the tailoring matrix. As a consequence, there is a lack of interactive and dynamic qualities in methods connected to this paradigm of garment construction, from both expressional and functional perspectives. This work proposes and explores an alternative paradigm for pattern cutting that includes a new theoretical approximation of the body as well as a more kinetic method for garment construction that, unlike the prevalent theory and its related methods, takes as its point of origin the interaction between the anisotropic fabric and the biomechanical structure of the body. As such, the research conducted here is basic research, aiming to identify fundamental principles for garment construction. Based on some key principles found in the works of Geneviève Sevin-Doering and in pre-tailoring methods for constructing garments, the proposed theory for – and method of – garment construction was developed through concrete experiments by cutting and draping fabrics on live models. Instead of a static matrix of a non-moving body, the result is a kinetic construction theory of the body that is comprised of balance directions and key biomechanical points, along with an alternative draping method for dressmaking. This methodology challenges the fundamental relationship between dress, garment construction, and the body, working from the body outward, as opposed to the methods that are based on the prevalent paradigm of the tailoring matrix, which work from the outside toward the body. This alternative theory for understanding the body and the proposed method of working allows for diverse expressions and enhanced functional possibilities in dress.
The book takes the reader through all the major steps of fashion portfolio creation. It features the main components of the design process from the identification of inspiration sources and fashion trends research to conceptualization of a complete fashion collection. The topics covered include mood/fabric boards development, creation of original and innovative textiles as well as fashion silhouettes and garment details development through extensive research, quick design sketching, fabric manipulation, and draping experimentation. Great original designs and illustrations by the author as well as design sketch samples by established designers are provided throughout. There are samples of sketchbooks from professional and emerging fashion artists. The book provides some insight from established fashion and accessories designers on the highlights and challenges of the creative process. It is a great professional reference for techniques in the portfolio development. A beautiful but practical book that provides useful techniques and helps the reader get inside the mind of the designer.
Charles James, often considered to be America's first couturier, was renowned in the 1940s and 1950s as a master at sculpting fabric for the female form and creating fashions that defined mid-century glamour. Although James had no formal training as a dressmaker, he created strikingly original and complex designs, including intricate ball gowns worn by members of high society in New York and Europe. This lavishly illustrated book offers a comprehensive study of James' life and work, highlighting his virtuosity and inventiveness as well as his influence on subsequent fashion designers. Featuring exciting new photography of the spectacular evening dresses James produced between 1947 and 1955, this publication includes enlightening details of these intricate creations alongside vintage photographs and rarely seen archival items, such as patterns, muslins, dress forms and sketches. A detailed and illustrated chronology of James' life describes his magnetic personality, his unorthodox design processes, his colourful supporters - such as Salvador Dali, Elsa Schiaparelli, Christian Dior, and Cristobal Balenciaga - and profiles of a number of his famous clients, such as Gypsy Rose Lee.
