Insubordinate Costume

Insubordinate Costume

Author: Susan Marshall

Publisher: CRC Press

Published: 2024-12-16

Total Pages: 238

ISBN-13: 1040226795

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Insubordinate Costume: Inspiring Performance presents a comprehensive study of historical and contemporary examples of scenographic costume – the type of costume that creates an almost complete stage environment by itself, simultaneously acting as costume, set and performance. This book provides readers with an overview of the costumes, designers, context and theory that have contributed to the emerging field of ‘costume as performance’. Focusing on artists and their creative approach to space, form, materials and movement, the book looks at iconic figures such as Loïe Fuller, Oskar Schlemmer and Leigh Bowery, amongst contemporary examples of practitioners that are blurring disciplinary boundaries between fashion, dance, performance and theatre. The book includes chapters by Dr Sofia Pantouvaki, who focuses on performance costume as a means of research; Christina Lindgren, who presents the findings of the four-year Costume Agency project at Oslo National Academy of the Arts in Norway; Charlotte Østergaard, who discusses the implications of 'Listening with costume' and Felix Choong, writing on 'Contemporary Runways, Contemporary Costumes'. The final part of the volume, 'The Practitioners’ Voice', examines current practice through interviews and contributions from key practitioners with an afterword by Dr Rachel Hann. Insubordinate Costume will appeal to professional costume designers, performance artists, dancers, directors, choreographers, fashion designers and theorists, teachers and students of these subjects. With its interdisciplinary focus and unique and dynamic content, this publication is relevant to a range of art, design and performance courses.


Modern Aesthetics

Modern Aesthetics

Author: D. Petsch

Publisher: Walter de Gruyter GmbH & Co KG

Published: 2015-08-31

Total Pages: 596

ISBN-13: 3110801132

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This three volume set is a comprehensive account of the development of European aesthetics from the time of the ancient Greeks to the 1700s. This last volume covers 1400-1700.


Ballerina

Ballerina

Author: Patricia Mears

Publisher: Vendome Press

Published: 2019-10-15

Total Pages: 0

ISBN-13: 9780865653733

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A gorgeously illustrated look at the profound influence that classical ballet and the ballerina have had on high fashion Ballerina: Fashion's Modern Muse is a revelatory, irresistible treat for dance aficionados and fashionistas alike. Couturiers such as Balmain, Balenciaga, Chanel, Schiaparelli, Charles James, Dior, and Yves Saint Laurent designed ballet-inspired dresses and gowns, many featuring the boned bodices and voluminous tulle skirts of classical tutus. And ready-to-wear designers such as Claire McCardell found inspiration in ballet leotards and other practice clothing, creating knitted separates, bathing suits, and wrap dresses. Written by fashion and ballet experts, the book is illustrated with archival photography by such masters as Richard Avedon, Edward Steichen, Irving Penn, Man Ray, and Cecil Beaton, along with newly commissioned photography of contemporary ballerinas wearing ballet-influenced couture.


Reveal and Conceal

Reveal and Conceal

Author: Andrea B. Rugh

Publisher: Syracuse University Press

Published: 1986-11-01

Total Pages: 218

ISBN-13: 9780815623687

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This book is an exciting study of clothing as a complex cultural expression. The author analyses contemporary social meanings found in the symbols of dress and shows the way groups and individuals use the symbols like a language to reveal or conceal significant aspects of their personal identities. Reveal and Conceal contains thirty-three line drawings, clearly depicting the various modes and differences in dress. Forty-eight photographs are included in the book, most of which were taken by the author during her extensive interviews with the women and men of the Egyptian villages and cities she researched.


Modernizing Costume Design, 1820–1920

Modernizing Costume Design, 1820–1920

Author: Annie Holt

Publisher: Routledge

Published: 2020-10-14

Total Pages: 243

ISBN-13: 0429619987

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Annie Holt identifies the roots of contemporary Euro-American practices of costume design, in which costumes are an integrated part of the dramaturgy rather than a reflection of an individual performer’s taste or status. She argues that in the period 1820–1920, as part of the larger project of modernism across the artistic and cultural field, the functions of "clothing" and "costume" diverged. Onstage apparel took on a more specific semiotic task, acting as a fresh channel for the flow of information between the performer, the literary text, and the spectator. Modernizing Costume Design traces how five kinds of artists – directors, performers, writers, couturiers, and painters – made key contributions to this new model of costume design. Holt shows that by 1920, costume design shifted in status from craft to art.


The Art and Practice of Costume Design

The Art and Practice of Costume Design

Author: Melissa Merz

Publisher: CRC Press

Published: 2016-09-19

Total Pages: 568

ISBN-13: 1317573676

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In The Art and Practice of Costume Design, a panel of seven designers offer a new multi-sided look at the current state and practice of theatrical costume design. Beginning with an exploration of the role of a Costume Designer, the subsequent chapters analyse and explore the psychology of dress, the principles and elements of design, how to create costume renderings, and collaboration within the production. The book also takes a look at the costume shop and the role of the designer within it, and costume design careers within theatrical and fashion industries.


Designing Costume for Stage and Screen

Designing Costume for Stage and Screen

Author: Deirdre Clancy

Publisher: Batsford Books

Published: 2014-12-08

Total Pages: 426

ISBN-13: 184994198X

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"She is the most wonderfully inventive and brilliantly talented designer" Dame Judi Dench on Clancy. Deirdre Clancy is one of the most experienced and accomplished costume designers in the business. In this book, she gives her inside knowledge of designing for stage and screen, which includes television, film, theatre and opera. She includes a brief illustrated history of costume design – from the Greeks to Lady Gaga – an invaluable guide for students and current designers. Part Two takes the reader through the design process: how you go about doing it, and the different strands of costume design – from contemporary clothes through to period costume, how to communicate with the audience, designing on paper and with Photoshop or on an iPad and how to share and communicate your ideas and well as mood boards and collages for inspiration. Part Three is about the world of costume design – what it involves and how to get into the field, who does what and the differences between working for stage and screen productions. Clancy advises on budgets and improvisation and covers all the practicalities and behind-the-scenes tips. Part Four looks at period costume from the Dark Ages up to the twentieth century, encompassing authenticity and feasibility. Finally, Part Five looks at individual case studies in depth, including opera and Shakespeare productions. Packed with great drawings and case studies, this is an essential book for any student or professional costume designer looking for additional inside advice. Whether you are a designer for the stage or screen, this book has something new for you with advice from one of the best in the business.


Stage and Screen: Shirts in Theatrical and Film Costumes

Stage and Screen: Shirts in Theatrical and Film Costumes

Author: Bernard Bender

Publisher: Gavin Jay Maureemootoo

Published: 2024-10-30

Total Pages: 146

ISBN-13:

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This comprehensive guide delves into the intricate world of shirt design for theatrical and film costumes, offering a detailed exploration of historical styles, construction techniques, and the artistry of creating garments that tell stories and enhance character. Explore the evolution of shirt styles across different eras, from the classic white shirt to the revolutionary designs of the 20th century. Learn to draft patterns, choose fabrics, and master essential sewing techniques. Discover the power of detail and how to create unique and distinctive shirts that reflect the personality of a character. Whether you are a costume designer, a student, or simply someone fascinated by the magic of film and theater, this book provides invaluable insights into the art of shirt design and its transformative impact on storytelling.


Costume in Performance

Costume in Performance

Author: Donatella Barbieri

Publisher: Bloomsbury Publishing

Published: 2017-06-29

Total Pages: 377

ISBN-13: 147423688X

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Winner of Best Performance Design and Scenography Publication Award, Prague Quadrennial 2019 This beautifully illustrated book conveys the centrality of costume to live performance. Finding associations between contemporary practices and historical manifestations, costume is explored in six thematic chapters, examining the transformative ritual of costuming; choruses as reflective of society; the grotesque, transgressive costume; the female sublime as emancipation; costume as sculptural art in motion; and the here-and-now as history. Viewing the material costume as a crucial aspect in the preparation, presentation and reception of live performance, the book brings together costumed performances through history. These range from ancient Greece to modern experimental productions, from medieval theatre to modernist dance, from the 'fashion plays' to contemporary Shakespeare, marking developments in both culture and performance. Revealing the relationship between dress, the body and human existence, and acknowledging a global as well as an Anglo and Eurocentric perspective, this book shows costume's ability to cross both geographical and disciplinary borders. Through it, we come to question the extent to which the material costume actually co-authors the performance itself, speaking of embodied histories, states of being and never-before imagined futures, which come to life in the temporary space of the performance. With a contribution by Melissa Trimingham, University of Kent, UK


Costume

Costume

Author: Pravina Shukla

Publisher: Indiana University Press

Published: 2016-04-06

Total Pages: 336

ISBN-13: 0253015812

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A revealing look at how and why we dress up for events from historical reenactments to Halloween, with an “engaging writing style and rich illustrations” (Choice). What does it mean to people around the world to put on costumes to celebrate their heritage, reenact historic events, assume a role on stage, or participate in Halloween or Carnival? Self-consciously set apart from everyday dress, costume marks the divide between ordinary and extraordinary settings and enables the wearer to project a different self or special identity. In this fascinating book, Pravina Shukla offers richly detailed case studies from the United States, Brazil, and Sweden to show how individuals use costumes for social communication and to express facets of their personalities. “Revelatory . . . a wide-ranging book bringing attention to clothing as part of festivals and folk heritage events, pop culture conventions and dramatic performances.” —Nuvo