Array Measurements of Surface Gravity Waves
Author: Thomas H. C. Herbers
Publisher:
Published: 1990
Total Pages: 262
ISBN-13:
DOWNLOAD EBOOKLocal properties of natural, wind generated, surface gravity waves are examined with arrays of pressure transducers. Two methods are presented for interpretation of array measurements. First and estimator for wave radiation stresses and energy fluxes is derived, applicable to an array of 4 pressure transducers arranged in a square. The technique is based on an expansion for small kL with k the wave number and L the sensor separation. A variational method for estimating directional wave spectra, applicable to arbitrary array geometries in constant or slowly varying depth water is presented next. A smooth estimate of the directional distribution of wave energy S (Theta) is obtained by minimizing a roughness measure. Model tests show that spurious features are effectively rejected by the smoothness constraint, and illustrate the importance of data-independent information. Estimates of S(Theta), obtained from field data collected offshore of a mildly sloping beach, show that reflection of incident sea and swell is very weak. Observations of sea floor pressure fluctuations in 13 m depth are compared to a theory for weakly nonlinear surface gravity waves. Nonlinear interactions between directionally opposing seas theoretically excite long wavelength, double sea frequency forced waves that are only weakly attenuated at the sea floor. Observed bottom pressure spectra show that large fluctuations in double sea frequency (0.35 - 0.6 Hz) forced wave energy can occur in only a few hours.