Array Measurements of Surface Gravity Waves

Array Measurements of Surface Gravity Waves

Author: Thomas H. C. Herbers

Publisher:

Published: 1990

Total Pages: 262

ISBN-13:

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Local properties of natural, wind generated, surface gravity waves are examined with arrays of pressure transducers. Two methods are presented for interpretation of array measurements. First and estimator for wave radiation stresses and energy fluxes is derived, applicable to an array of 4 pressure transducers arranged in a square. The technique is based on an expansion for small kL with k the wave number and L the sensor separation. A variational method for estimating directional wave spectra, applicable to arbitrary array geometries in constant or slowly varying depth water is presented next. A smooth estimate of the directional distribution of wave energy S (Theta) is obtained by minimizing a roughness measure. Model tests show that spurious features are effectively rejected by the smoothness constraint, and illustrate the importance of data-independent information. Estimates of S(Theta), obtained from field data collected offshore of a mildly sloping beach, show that reflection of incident sea and swell is very weak. Observations of sea floor pressure fluctuations in 13 m depth are compared to a theory for weakly nonlinear surface gravity waves. Nonlinear interactions between directionally opposing seas theoretically excite long wavelength, double sea frequency forced waves that are only weakly attenuated at the sea floor. Observed bottom pressure spectra show that large fluctuations in double sea frequency (0.35 - 0.6 Hz) forced wave energy can occur in only a few hours.


Wave Dynamics and Radio Probing of the Ocean Surface

Wave Dynamics and Radio Probing of the Ocean Surface

Author: O. M. Phillips

Publisher: Springer Science & Business Media

Published: 2012-12-06

Total Pages: 677

ISBN-13: 1468489801

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In 1960, Dr. George Deacon ofthe National Institute ofOceanography in England organized a meeting in Easton, Maryland that summarized the state of our understanding at that time of ocean wave statistics and dynamics. It was a pivotal occasion: spectral techniques for wave measurement were beginning to be used, wave-wave interactions hadjust been discovered, and simple models for the growth of waves by wind were being developed. The meeting laid the foundation for much work that was to follow, but one could hardly have imagined the extent to which new techniques of measurement, particularly by remote sensing, new methods of calculation and computation, and new theoretical and laboratory results would, in the following twenty years, build on this base. When Gaspar Valenzuela of the V. S. Naval Research Laboratory perceived that the time was right for a second such meeting, it was natural that Sir George Deacon would be invited to serve as honorary chairman for the meeting, and the entire waves community was delighted at his acceptance. The present volume contains reviewed and edited papers given at this second meeting, held this time in Miami, Florida, May 13-20, 1981, with the generous support of the Office of Naval Research, the National Aeronautics and Space Administration, and the National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration.


Scientific and Technical Aerospace Reports

Scientific and Technical Aerospace Reports

Author:

Publisher:

Published: 1991

Total Pages: 1460

ISBN-13:

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Lists citations with abstracts for aerospace related reports obtained from world wide sources and announces documents that have recently been entered into the NASA Scientific and Technical Information Database.


Intermediate and Deep Current Measurements in the Northeast Pacific Ocean

Intermediate and Deep Current Measurements in the Northeast Pacific Ocean

Author: Marshall D. Earle

Publisher:

Published: 1975

Total Pages: 76

ISBN-13:

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Ocean currents were measured in the central northeast Pacific, from 30 degrees N to 40 degrees N and 140 degrees W to 150 degrees W, with nine arrays of moored current meters during autumn 1973. Current meter records at depths from 700 m to 5420 m were analyzed to determine the characteristics of intermediate and deep currents within the central northeast Pacific. The currents in this region have very low speeds which generally decrease with increasing depth. Contributions to the time-dependent currents are primarily from oscillatory motions at the local inertial frequencies and the semidiurnal tidal frequency. Spectral analysis indicates that tidal frequency motion is essentially due to baroclinic internal tides and not barotropic surface tides.


Boundary-Layer Meteorology 25th Anniversary Volume, 1970–1995

Boundary-Layer Meteorology 25th Anniversary Volume, 1970–1995

Author: John R. Garratt

Publisher: Springer Science & Business Media

Published: 1996-09-30

Total Pages: 434

ISBN-13: 9780792341918

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The journal Boundary-Layer Meteorology was started in 1970 and has become the premier vehicle for the publication of research papers in its field. Dr R.E. Munn served as Editor-in-Chief until recently. The special 25th Anniversary volume, on which this book is based, was compiled from review and other articles solicited and selected as a `Festschrift' to honour Ted Munn's achievement as editor of the journal over that time. Articles by leading contributors to the field include reviews of field studies (Askervein, HEXOS, Cabauw) and their impacts; numerical modelling (large-eddy simulation of the surface layer, frontal structures); analyses and critical discussions (of the von Karman constant, bulk aerodynamic formulations, air-sea interaction, vegetation canopies); and reviews or previews of progress in our understanding of the atmospheric boundary layer, turbulence simulation, Lagrangian descriptions of turbulent diffusion and remote sensing of the boundary layer. The collection provides an excellent perspective on the state of the subject and where it is headed. It should provide fascinating and stimulating reading for researchers and students of boundary-layer meteorology and related areas.


Mechanics of Flow-Induced Sound and Vibration, Volume 2

Mechanics of Flow-Induced Sound and Vibration, Volume 2

Author: William K. Blake

Publisher: Academic Press

Published: 2017-08-14

Total Pages: 696

ISBN-13: 0128122900

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Mechanics of Flow-Induced Sound and Vibration, Volume 2: Complex Flow-Structure Interactions, Second Edition, enables readers to fully understand flow-induced vibration and sound, unifying the disciplines of fluid dynamics, structural dynamics, vibration, acoustics, and statistics in order to classify and examine each of the leading sources of vibration and sound induced by various types of fluid motion. Starting from classical theories of aeroacoustics and hydroacoustics, a formalism of integral solutions valid for sources near boundaries is developed and then broadened to address different source types, including hydrodynamically induced cavitation and bubble noise, turbulent wall-pressure fluctuations, pipe and duct systems, lifting surface flow noise and vibration, and noise from rotating machinery. Each chapter is illustrated with comparisons of leading formulas and measured data. Combined with its companion book, Mechanics of Flow-Induced Sound and Vibration, Volume 1: General Concepts and Elementary Sources, the book covers everything an engineer needs to understand flow-induced sound and vibration. This book will be a vital source of information for postgraduate students, engineers and researchers with an interest in aerospace, ships and submarines, offshore structures, construction, and ventilation. - Presents every important topic in flow-induced sound and vibration - Covers all aspects of the topics addressed, from fundamental theory, to the analytical formulas used in practice - Provides the building blocks of computer modeling for flow-induced sound and vibration


Coastal Engineering 2008 (In 5 Volumes) - Proceedings Of The 31st International Conference

Coastal Engineering 2008 (In 5 Volumes) - Proceedings Of The 31st International Conference

Author: Jane Mckee Smith

Publisher: World Scientific

Published: 2009-05-05

Total Pages: 5136

ISBN-13: 9814467561

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This proceedings contains papers presented at the 31st International Conference on Coastal Engineering, which has held in Hamburg, Germany (31 August - 5 September 2008). The proceeding is divided into five parts: Waves; Long Waves, Nearshore Currents, and Swash; Sediment Transport and Morphology; Coastal Management, Environment, and Risk; and Coastal Structures. The papers cover a broad range of topics including theory, numerical and physical modeling, field measurements, case studies, design, and management. Coastal Engineering 2008 provides coastal engineers, scientists, and planners, with state-of-the-art information on coastal engineering and coastal processes.


Non-Linear Variability in Geophysics

Non-Linear Variability in Geophysics

Author: D. Schertzer

Publisher: Springer Science & Business Media

Published: 2012-12-06

Total Pages: 306

ISBN-13: 9400921470

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consequences of broken symmetry -here parity-is studied. In this model, turbulence is dominated by a hierarchy of helical (corkscrew) structures. The authors stress the unique features of such pseudo-scalar cascades as well as the extreme nature of the resulting (intermittent) fluctuations. Intermittent turbulent cascades was also the theme of a paper by us in which we show that universality classes exist for continuous cascades (in which an infinite number of cascade steps occur over a finite range of scales). This result is the multiplicative analogue of the familiar central limit theorem for the addition of random variables. Finally, an interesting paper by Pasmanter investigates the scaling associated with anomolous diffusion in a chaotic tidal basin model involving a small number of degrees of freedom. Although the statistical literature is replete with techniques for dealing with those random processes characterized by both exponentially decaying (non-scaling) autocorrelations and exponentially decaying probability distributions, there is a real paucity of literature appropriate for geophysical fields exhibiting either scaling over wide ranges (e. g. algebraic autocorrelations) or extreme fluctuations (e. g. algebraic probabilities, divergence of high order statistical moments). In fact, about the only relevant technique that is regularly used -fourier analysis (energy spectra) -permits only an estimate of a single (power law) exponent. If the fields were mono-fractal (characterized by a single fractal dimension) this would be sufficient, however their generally multifractal character calls for the development of new techniques.


Atmosphere-Ocean Interaction

Atmosphere-Ocean Interaction

Author: Eric B. Kraus

Publisher: Oxford University Press

Published: 1994-11-10

Total Pages: 385

ISBN-13: 019536208X

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With both the growing importance of integrating studies of air-sea interaction and the interest in the general problem of global warming, the appearance of the second edition of this popular text is especially welcome. Thoroughly updated and revised, the authors have retained the accessible, comprehensive expository style that distinguished the earlier edition. Topics include the state of matter near the interface, radiation, surface wind waves, turbulent transfer near the interface, the planetary boundary layer, atmospherically-forced perturbations in the oceans, and large-scale forcing by sea surface buoyancy fluxes. This book will be welcomed by students and professionals in meteorology, physical oceanography, physics and ocean engineering.