Topics in Longshore Currents
Topics in Longshore Currents

Author: John Casey Church

Publisher:

Published: 1993

Total Pages: 140

ISBN-13:

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The momentum equation governing mean longshore currents on straight beaches is a balance of forcing from the momentum transfer of the oscillatory wave motion, turbulent momentum transfer (mixing), and bottom stress. Of these, the wave's contribution is well understood, but the remaining two are not, principally due to the complicated hydrodynamics of the surf-zone. Addressing the bottom stress term, a longshore current model is developed which includes a modification of the bottom stress due to the effects of breaking-wave induced turbulence. A one-dimensional turbulent kinetic energy equation is used to model this breaking-wave induced turbulence, producing a spatially varying bottom friction coefficient. The modeled longshore current cross-shore profiles show improved agreement with field observations. In a second bottom stress study, vertical profiles of mean longshore currents are examined using field data obtained with vertically stacked electromagnetic current meters with the goal of measuring the bottom stress and its associated drag coefficient. The profiles are observed to become vertically uniform whenever the ratio of wave height to depth exceeds 0.3, indicating that nearly all of the waves passing a given location are breaking. Finally, horizontal turbulent momentum transfer (mixing) is examined for the case of shear instabilities of the longshore current.

A-level Geography Topic Master: Coastal Landscapes
A-level Geography Topic Master: Coastal Landscapes

Author: Peter Stiff

Publisher: Hodder Education

Published: 2019-01-07

Total Pages: 390

ISBN-13: 1510432442

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Exam board: AQA, Edexcel, OCR, WJEC/Eduqas Level: A-level Subject: Geography First teaching: September 2016 First exams: Summer 2017 (AS); Summer 2018 (A-level) Master the in-depth knowledge and higher-level skills that A-level Geography students need to succeed; this focused topic book extends learning far beyond your course textbooks. Blending detailed content and case studies with questions, exemplars and guidance, this book: - Significantly improves students' knowledge and understanding of A-level content and concepts, providing more coverage of Coastal Landscapes than your existing resources - Strengthens students' analytical and interpretative skills through questions that involve a range of geographical data sources, with guidance on how to approach each task - Demonstrates how to evaluate issues, with a dedicated section in every chapter that shows how to think geographically, consider relevant evidence and structure a balanced essay - Equips students with everything they need to excel, from additional case studies and definitions of key terminology, to suggestions for further research and fieldwork ideas for the Independent Investigation - Helps students check, apply and consolidate their learning, using end-of-chapter refresher questions and discussion points, plus tailored advice for the AQA, Edexcel, OCR and WJEC/Eduqas specifications - Offers trusted and reliable content, written by a team of highly experienced senior examiners and reviewed by academics with unparalleled knowledge of the latest geographical theories

The Ecology of Sandy Shores
The Ecology of Sandy Shores

Author: A.C. Brown

Publisher: Elsevier

Published: 2010-07-27

Total Pages: 387

ISBN-13: 0080465099

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The Ecology of Sandy Shores provides the students and researchers with a one-volume resource for understanding the conservation and management of the sandy shore ecosystem. Covering all beach types, and addressing issues from the behavioral and physiological adaptations of the biota to exploring the effects of pollution and the impact of man's activities, this book should become the standard reference for those interested in Sandy Shore study, management and preservation. - More than 25% expanded from the previous edition - Three entirely new chapters: Energetics and Nutrient Cycling, Turtles and Terrestrial Vertebrates, and Benthic Macrofauna Populations - New sections on the interstitial environment, seagrasses, human impacts and coastal zone management - Examples drawn from virtually all parts of the world, considering all beach types from the most exposed to the most sheltered

Depositional Sedimentary Environments
Depositional Sedimentary Environments

Author: H.-E. Reineck

Publisher: Springer Science & Business Media

Published: 2012-12-06

Total Pages: 566

ISBN-13: 3642814980

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From the reviews: "...This is an extremely useful reference text for the sedimentary geologist to own. It is well produced with clear illustrations and text, and gives excellent factual information on a large number of topics." (Palaeogeography, Palaeoclimatology, Palaeoecology) "...represents a significant contribution to the literature of geoscience. It should be in the library of anyone seriously intereted in sedimentology."(Marine Geology) "This book is still unsurpassed in providing a good, basic synthesis of modern sedimentary environments, especially the physical attributes of the deposits being formed and the processes responsible..." (Sedimentary Geology)

Sandy Beach Morphodynamics
Sandy Beach Morphodynamics

Author: Derek Jackson

Publisher: Elsevier

Published: 2020-05-20

Total Pages: 814

ISBN-13: 0081029276

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Sandy beaches represent some of the most dynamic environments on Earth and examining their morphodynamic behaviour over different temporal and spatial scales is challenging, relying on multidisciplinary approaches and techniques. Sandy Beach Morphodynamics brings together the latest research on beach systems and their morphodynamics and the ways in which they are studied in 29 chapters that review the full spectrum of beach morphodynamics. The chapters are written by leading experts in the field and provide introductory level understanding of physical processes and resulting landforms, along with more advanced discussions.