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Author: Fred Hemmings
Publisher: Da Capo Press
Published: 1999
Total Pages: 151
ISBN-13: 9781560252054
DOWNLOAD EBOOKA former champion surfer explores the culture and history of surfing, focusing on the sport's Hawaiian roots, and recalls his own long association with surfing
Author: John Engle
Publisher: McFarland
Published: 2015-10-19
Total Pages: 261
ISBN-13: 0786495219
DOWNLOAD EBOOKSurfing has fascinated filmmakers since Thomas Edison shot footage of Waikiki beachboys in 1906. Before the 1950s surf craze, surfing showed up in travelogues or as exotic background for studio features. The arrival of Gidget (1959) on the big screen swept the sport into popular culture, but surfer-filmmakers were already featuring the day's best surfers in self-narrated two-reelers. Hollywood and independent filmmakers have produced about three dozen surf films in the last half-century, including the frothy Beach Party movies, Point Break (1991) and Chasing Mavericks (2012). From Bud Browne's earliest efforts to The Endless Summer (1966), Riding Giants (2004) and today's brilliant videos, over 1,000 surfing movies have celebrated the stoke. This first full-length study of surf movies gives critical attention to hundreds of the most important films.
Author: Linda Chase
Publisher: Gibbs Smith
Published: 2007
Total Pages: 188
ISBN-13: 9781423601791
DOWNLOAD EBOOKAs the official counterculture sport of the 1960s, surfing was not just a sport but a lifestyle, one long, sun-drenched beach party with endless waves and music, as well as an unapologetically masculine culture. This notion has since been disproved by generations of amazing female surfers who have made an indelible mark on the sport. Surfing: Women of the Waves highlights some of these extraordinary women of surfing, from Linda Benson and Joyce Hoffman in the 1950s and 1960s to Layne Beachley, Sofia Mulanovich, Bethany Hamilton, and the great Lisa Andersen, four-time women's world champion. Today, women of all ages and skill levels have taken their place among the waves-longboarders, shortboarders, goofyfooters, hotdoggers, young girls, and surfer moms-these are the women of the waves!
Author: Matt Warshaw
Publisher: Houghton Mifflin Harcourt
Published: 2005
Total Pages: 820
ISBN-13: 9780156032513
DOWNLOAD EBOOKWith 1,500 alphabetical entries and 300 illustrations, this resource is a comprehensive review of the people, places, events, equipment, vernacular, and lively history of this fascinating sport.
Author: Mark Stranger
Publisher: Routledge
Published: 2017-03-02
Total Pages: 266
ISBN-13: 1351896830
DOWNLOAD EBOOKSurfing Life is a study of surfing and social change that also provides insights into other experience-based contemporary subcultures and the nature of the self and social formations in contemporary society. Making use of extensive empirical material to support innovative theoretical approaches to social change, this book offers an analysis of the relationship between embodied experience, culture and the economy. With its ground breaking theoretical contributions, and its foundation in an ethnographic study of surfing culture in locations across Australia, this volume will appeal not only to those interested in the social and cultural phenomenon of surfing, but also to anyone interested in the sociology of sport and leisure, the sociology of culture and consumption, risk-taking, subcultures and theories of contemporary social change.
Author: Nick Ford
Publisher: Taylor & Francis
Published: 2006
Total Pages: 220
ISBN-13: 9780415334334
DOWNLOAD EBOOKDrawing on popular surf culture, academic literature and the analytical tools of social theory, this is the first sustained commentary on the contemporary social and cultural meaning of surfing, exploring mind and body, emotions, and aesthetics.
Author: Sam Bleakley
Publisher: Leaping Hare Press
Published: 2020-03-10
Total Pages: 163
ISBN-13: 1782408959
DOWNLOAD EBOOKMindful Thoughts for Surfers explores how meditative a life on the surfboard can be. These 25 insightful musings will inspire beginners and experts alike. The immediacy of the surfer's surroundings and the interaction with the vast ocean and all of its wonderful wildlife creates the perfect opportunity to practise mindfulness. Sam Bleakley is an international longboard surfing champion and advocate for all forms of waveriding. With an interest in Buddhism and Taoism, he discusses such subjects as: Decluttering thoughts and identification Embracing imperfection The metaphors and parallels of the water with our lives The spiritual connection to nature Recovering from injury Heightened senses and the connection between body and mind Blue mindfulness, flow and resilience Through these subjects he explores how riding the waves is the ultimate meditation and offers an astute awareness of what the oceans tell us about our place in the natural world—if we would just listen. His illuminating meditations, each beautifully illustrated, make this book perfect for dipping into and offer a gentle gateway into life-affirming awareness for everyone. If you like this you might also be interested in Mindfulness and Surfing . . .
Author: Bill Missett
Publisher: AuthorHouse
Published: 2013-11-08
Total Pages: 581
ISBN-13: 1491812877
DOWNLOAD EBOOKThis special edition of the "Soul Surfer Johnny" trilogy brings all three books together in one volume, with a special bonus chapter of 15 new stories. It includes the complete versions of "Soul Surfer Johnny," "Soul Surfer Johnny Returns," and "Soul Surfer Johnny Rips" intact and unabridged. Plus a new 12,000-word segment of new stories.
Author: Bethany Hamilton
Publisher: Simon and Schuster
Published: 2012-12-25
Total Pages: 218
ISBN-13: 147110950X
DOWNLOAD EBOOKThey say Bethany Hamilton has saltwater in her veins. How else could one explain the tremendous passion that drives her to surf? How else could one explain that nothing - not even the loss of her arm in a horrific shark attack - could come between her and the waves? That Halloween morning in Kauai, Hawaii Bethany responded to the shark's stealth with a calmness beyond belief. Pushing pain and panic aside, she immediately thought: 'Get to the beach...' Rushed to the hospital, where her father, Ted Hamilton, was about to undergo knee surgery, Bethany found herself taking his spot in the operating theatre. When the first thing Bethany wanted to know after surgery was 'When can I surf again?' it became clear that her unfaltering spirit and determination were part of a greater story - a tale of courage and faith that this modest and soft-spoken girl would come to share with the world.
Author: Timothy J. Cooley
Publisher: Univ of California Press
Published: 2014-01-02
Total Pages: 238
ISBN-13: 0520276639
DOWNLOAD EBOOK"Roth Family Foundation music in America imprint"--First printed page.
