Slaves to Fashion
Slaves to Fashion

Author: Robert Ross

Publisher: University of Michigan Press

Published: 2010-02-22

Total Pages: 481

ISBN-13: 047202566X

DOWNLOAD EBOOK

"A brilliant and beautiful book, the mature work of a lifetime, must reading for students of the globalization debate." ---Tom Hayden "Slaves to Fashion is a remarkable achievement, several books in one: a gripping history of sweatshops, explaining their decline, fall, and return; a study of how the media portray them; an analysis of the fortunes of the current anti-sweatshop movement; an anatomy of the global traffic in apparel, in particular the South-South competition that sends wages and working conditions plummeting toward the bottom; and not least, a passionate declaration of faith that humanity can find a way to get its work done without sweatshops. This is engaged sociology at its most stimulating." ---Todd Gitlin ". . . unflinchingly portrays the reemergence of the sweatshop in our dog-eat-dog economy." ---Los Angeles Times Just as Barbara Ehrenreich's Nickel and Dimed uncovered the plight of the working poor in America, Robert J. S. Ross's Slaves to Fashion exposes the dark side of the apparel industry and its exploited workers at home and abroad. It's both a lesson in American business history and a warning about one of the most important issues facing the global capital economy-the reappearance of the sweatshop. Vividly detailing the decline and tragic rebirth of sweatshop conditions in the American apparel industry of the twentieth century, Ross explains the new sweatshops as a product of unregulated global capitalism and associated deregulation, union erosion, and exploitation of undocumented workers. Using historical material and economic and social data, the author shows that after a brief thirty-five years of fair practices, the U.S. apparel business has once again sunk to shameful abuse and exploitation. Refreshingly jargon-free but documented in depth, Slaves to Fashion is the only work to estimate the size of the sweatshop problem and to systematically show its impact on apparel workers' wages. It is also unique in its analysis of the budgets and personnel used in enforcing the Fair Labor Standards Act. Anyone who is concerned about this urgent social and economic topic and wants to go beyond the headlines should read this important and timely contribution to the rising debate on low-wage factory labor. Robert J.S. Ross is Professor of Sociology, Clark University. He is an expert in the area of sweatshops and globalization. He is an activist academic who travels and lectures extensively and has published numerous related articles.

Sewing Women
Sewing Women

Author: Margaret M. Chin

Publisher: Columbia University Press

Published: 2005-05-25

Total Pages: 208

ISBN-13: 0231508034

DOWNLOAD EBOOK

Many Latino and Chinese women who immigrated to New York City over the past several decades found work in the garment industry-an industry well known for both hiring immigrants and its harsh working conditions. In the 1990s, the garment industry was one of the largest immigrant employers in New York City and workers in Chinese- and Korean-owned factories produced 70 percent of all manufactured clothing in New York City. Based on extensive interviews with workers and employers, Margaret M. Chin offers a detailed and complex portrait of the work lives of Chinese and Latino garment workers. Chin, whose mother and aunts worked in Chinatown's garment industry, also explores how immigration status, family circumstances, ethnic relations, and gender affect the garment industry workplace. In turn, she analyzes how these factors affect whom employers hire and what wages and benefits are given to the employees. Chin's study contrasts the working conditions and hiring practices of Korean- and Chinese-owned factories. Her comparison of the two practices illuminates how ethnic ties both improve and hinder opportunities for immigrants. While both sectors take advantage of workers and are characterized by low wages and lax enforcement of safety regulations-there are crucial differences. In the Chinese sector, owners encourage employees, almost entirely female, to recruit new workers, especially friends and family. Though Chinese workers tend to be documented and unionized, this work arrangement allows owners to maintain a more paternalistic relationship with their employees. Gender also plays a major role in channeling women into the garment industry, as Chinese immigrants, particularly those with children, tend to maintain traditional gender roles in the workplace. Korean-owned shops, however, hire mostly undocumented Mexican and Ecuadorian workers, both male and female. These workers tend not to have children and are thus less tied to traditional gender roles. Unlike their Chinese counterparts, Korean employers hire workers on their own terms and would rather not allow current employees to influence their decisions. Chin's work also provides an overview of the history of the garment industry, examines immigration strategies, and concludes with a discussion of changes in the industry in the aftermath of 9/11.

Threads
Threads

Author: Jane L. Collins

Publisher: University of Chicago Press

Published: 2009-11-15

Total Pages: 222

ISBN-13: 0226113736

DOWNLOAD EBOOK

Americans have been shocked by media reports of the dismal working conditions in factories that make clothing for U.S. companies. But while well intentioned, many of these reports about child labor and sweatshop practices rely on stereotypes of how Third World factories operate, ignoring the complex economic dynamics driving the global apparel industry. To dispel these misunderstandings, Jane L. Collins visited two very different apparel firms and their factories in the United States and Mexico. Moving from corporate headquarters to factory floors, her study traces the diverse ties that link First and Third World workers and managers, producers and consumers. Collins examines how the transnational economics of the apparel industry allow firms to relocate or subcontract their work anywhere in the world, making it much harder for garment workers in the United States or any other country to demand fair pay and humane working conditions. Putting a human face on globalization, Threads shows not only how international trade affects local communities but also how workers can organize in this new environment to more effectively demand better treatment from their distant corporate employers.

Striking Beauties
Striking Beauties

Author: Michelle Haberland

Publisher: University of Georgia Press

Published: 2015-03-01

Total Pages: 240

ISBN-13: 082034754X

DOWNLOAD EBOOK

Apparel manufacturing in the American South, by virtue of its size, its reliance upon female labor, and its broad geographic scope, is an important but often overlooked industry that connects the disparate concerns of women's history, southern cultural history, and labor history. In Striking Beauties, Michelle Haberland examines its essential features and the varied experiences of its workers during the industry's great expansion from the late 1930s through the demise of its southern branch at the end of the twentieth century. The popular conception of the early twentieth-century South as largely agrarian informs many histories of industry and labor in the United States. But as Haberland demonstrates, the apparel industry became a key part of the southern economy after the Great Depression and a major driver of southern industrialization. The gender and racial composition of the workforce, the growth of trade unions, technology, and capital investment were all powerful forces in apparel's migration south. Yet those same forces also revealed the tensions caused by racial and gender inequities not only in the region but in the nation at large. Striking Beauties places the struggles of working women for racial and economic justice in the larger context of southern history. The role of women as the primary consumers of the family placed them in a critical position to influence the success or failure of boycotts, union label programs and ultimately solidarity.

Claude Cahun
Claude Cahun

Author: Gen Doy

Publisher: Routledge

Published: 2020-08-13

Total Pages: 232

ISBN-13: 1000211770

DOWNLOAD EBOOK

This is the first single-authored book in English on the photographer Claude Cahun, whose work was rediscovered in the 1980s. Doy moves beyond standard postmodern approaches, instead repositioning the artist, born Lucy Schwob, in the context of the turbulent times in which she lived and seeing the photographs as part of Cahun's wider life as an artist and writer, a woman and lesbian and as a political activist in the early twentieth century. Doy rethinks Cahun's approach to dress and masquerade, looking at the images in light of the situation of women at the time and within the prevailing 'beauty' culture. Addressing Cahun's ambivalent relationship with Symbolism and later relationship with Surrealism, this highly readable book also looks at Cahun's unusual approach to the domestic object.

Ready-to-Wear and Ready-to-Work
Ready-to-Wear and Ready-to-Work

Author: Nancy L. Green

Publisher: Duke University Press

Published: 1997-01-16

Total Pages: 452

ISBN-13: 9780822318743

DOWNLOAD EBOOK

The story of urban growth, the politics of labour, and the relationships among the many immigrant groups who have come to work on the sewing machines of the women's garment industry over the last century. This book is of interest to a range of scholars, including those engaged in labour, immigrant, and women's history.

No Sweat
No Sweat

Author: Andrew Ross

Publisher: Verso

Published: 1997-09-17

Total Pages: 326

ISBN-13: 9781859841723

DOWNLOAD EBOOK

"In hard-hitting words and pictures, No Sweat surveys the chasm between the glamour of the catwalk and the squalor of the sweatshop." -- Book Jacket.

The U.S. Textile and Apparel Industry
The U.S. Textile and Apparel Industry

Author:

Publisher:

Published: 1987

Total Pages: 130

ISBN-13:

DOWNLOAD EBOOK

This report describes the plight of America's textile industries threatened by imports from countries paying lower wages to workers. S/N 052-003-01064-0: $7.50.