Mechanics of Coastal Sediment Transport
Mechanics of Coastal Sediment Transport

Author: J?rgen Freds?e

Publisher: World Scientific

Published: 1992

Total Pages: 406

ISBN-13: 9789810208400

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This book treats the subject of sediment transport in the marine environment, covering transport of non-cohesive sediment by waves and current in- and outside the surf zone. It can be read independently, but a background in hydraulics and basic wave mechanics is required. It is intended for M.Sc. and Ph.D. students. The primary aim of the book is to describe the physical processes of sediment transport and how to represent them in mathematical models. It does not present a large number of different formulae for the sediment transport rates under various conditions. The book can be divided in two main parts; in the first, the relevant hydrodynamic theory is described; in the second, sediment transport and morphological development are treated. The hydrodynamic part contains a review of elementary theory for water waves, chapters on the turbulent wave boundary layer and the turbulent interaction between waves and currents, and finally, surf zone hydrodynamics and wave driven currents. The part on sediment transport introduces the basic concepts (critical bed shear stress, bed load, suspended load and sheet layer, near-bed concentration, effect of sloping bed); it treats suspended sediment in waves and current and in the surf zone, and current and wave-generated bed forms. Finally, the modelling of cross-shore and long-shore sediment transport is described together with the development, of coastal profiles and coastlines.

Coastal Bottom Boundary Layers And Sediment Transport
Coastal Bottom Boundary Layers And Sediment Transport

Author: Peter Nielsen

Publisher: World Scientific Publishing Company

Published: 1992-07-21

Total Pages: 340

ISBN-13: 9813103582

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This book is intended as a useful handbook for professionals and researchers in the areas of Physical Oceanography, Marine Geology, Coastal Geomorphology and Coastal Engineering and as a text for graduate students in these fields. With its emphasis on boundary layer flow and basic sediment transport modelling, it is meant to help fill the gap between general hydrodynamic texts and descriptive texts on marine and coastal sedimentary processes. The book commences with a review of coastal bottom boundary layer flows including the boundary layer interaction between waves and steady currents. The concept of eddy viscosity for these flows is discussed in depth because of its relation to sediment diffusivity. The quasi-steady processes of sediment transport over flat beds are discussed. Small scale coastal bedforms and the corresponding hydraulic roughness are described. The motion of suspended sand particles is studied in detail with emphasis on the possible suspension maintaining mechanisms in coastal flows. Sediment pickup functions are provided for unsteady flows. A new combined convection-diffusion model is provided for suspended sediment distributions. Different methods of sediment transport model building are presented together with some classical models.

Mechanics Of Coastal Sediment Transport
Mechanics Of Coastal Sediment Transport

Author: Jorgen Fredsoe

Publisher: World Scientific Publishing Company

Published: 1992-11-02

Total Pages: 390

ISBN-13: 9814365688

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This book treats the subject of sediment transport in the marine environment, covering transport of noncohesive sediment by waves and currents in- and outside the surf zone. It can be read independently, but a background in hydraulics and basic wave mechanics is required.The primary aim of the book is to describe the physical processes of sediment transport and how to represent them in mathematical models. The book can be divided in two main parts; in the first, the relevant hydrodynamic theory is described. This part contains a review of elementary theory for water waves, chapters on the turbulent wave boundary layer and the turbulent interaction between waves and currents, and finally, surf zone hydrodynamics and wave driven currents.The second part covers sediment transport and morphological development.The part on sediment transport introduces the basic concepts (critical bed shear stress, bed load, suspended load and sheet layer, near-bed concentration, effect of sloping bed); it treats suspended sediment in waves and current and in the surf zone, and current and wave-generated bed forms. Finally, the modelling of cross-shore and long-shore sediment transport is described together with the development of coastal profiles and coastlines.

Sandy Beach Morphodynamics
Sandy Beach Morphodynamics

Author: Derek Jackson

Publisher: Elsevier

Published: 2020-05-20

Total Pages: 814

ISBN-13: 0081029276

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Sandy beaches represent some of the most dynamic environments on Earth and examining their morphodynamic behaviour over different temporal and spatial scales is challenging, relying on multidisciplinary approaches and techniques. Sandy Beach Morphodynamics brings together the latest research on beach systems and their morphodynamics and the ways in which they are studied in 29 chapters that review the full spectrum of beach morphodynamics. The chapters are written by leading experts in the field and provide introductory level understanding of physical processes and resulting landforms, along with more advanced discussions.

The Proceedings Of The Coastal Sediments 2015
The Proceedings Of The Coastal Sediments 2015

Author: Jun Cheng

Publisher: World Scientific

Published: 2015-04-23

Total Pages: 3129

ISBN-13: 981468998X

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This Proceedings contains over 260 papers on cutting-edge research presented at the eighth international Symposium on Coastal Sediment Processes, held May 11 - 15, 2015, in San Diego, California, USA. This technical specialty conference was devoted to promoting an interdisciplinary exchange of state-of-the-art knowledge among researchers in the fields of coastal engineering, geology, oceanography, and related disciplines, with the theme of Understanding and Working with Nature.Focusing on the physical aspects of the sediment processes in various coastal environments, this Proceedings provides findings from the latest research and newest engineering applications. Sessions covered a wide range of topics including barrier islands, beaches, climate and sea level, cohesive and noncohesive sediments, coastal bluffs, coastal marsh, dredged sediments, inlet and navigation channels, regional sediment management, river deltas, shore protection, tsunamis, and vegetation-sediment interaction. Several special sessions included: Relevant science for changing coastlines: A Tribute to Gary Griggs; North Atlantic Coast Comprehensive Study and post-super-storm Sandy work; long-term coastal evolution; barrier islands of Louisiana; sea-level rise and super storms in a warming world; predicting decadal coastal geomorphic evolution; and contrasting Pacific coastal behavior with El Niño Southern Oscillation (ENSO), are also featured.

Introduction to Coastal Processes and Geomorphology
Introduction to Coastal Processes and Geomorphology

Author: Robin Davidson-Arnott

Publisher: Cambridge University Press

Published: 2019-09-19

Total Pages: 541

ISBN-13: 1108424279

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Grounded in current research, this second edition has been thoroughly updated, featuring new topics, global examples and online material. Written for students studying coastal geomorphology, this is the complete guide to the processes at work on our coastlines and the features we see in coastal systems across the world.

Encyclopedia of Coastal Science
Encyclopedia of Coastal Science

Author: M. Schwartz

Publisher: Springer Science & Business Media

Published: 2006-11-08

Total Pages: 1243

ISBN-13: 1402038801

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This new Encyclopedia of Coastal Science stands as the latest authoritative source in the field of coastal studies, making it the standard reference work for specialists and the interested lay person. Unique in its interdisciplinary approach. This Encyclopedia features contributions by 245 well-known international specialists in their respective fields and is abundantly illustrated with line-drawings and photographs. Not only does this volume offer an extensive number of entries, it also includes various appendices, an illustrated glossary of coastal morphology and extensive bibliographic listings.

Suspended Sediments Measured in the Surf Zone
Suspended Sediments Measured in the Surf Zone

Author: William Denton Morris

Publisher:

Published: 1977

Total Pages: 108

ISBN-13:

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Suspended sediments were measured optically within the surf zone at Torrey Pines Beach, California. Sediment laden water was sampled through three intake nozzles which were mounted on a tower along with the optical sensor (nephelometer) which was in line with the sediment laden water which was pumped to the shore. The nephelometer gave a time series of the suspended sediments. The water pumped to the beach was filtered to obtain total sediment concentration. Horizontal velocities were measured simultaneously with an electromagnetic current meter mounted on the same tower. During the experiments the breaker height ranged between 1 and 2 meters and the mean period between 8 to 16 seconds. The peaks of the nephelometer spectra occurred at approximately twice the peak frequency in the velocity spectra indicating two or more maximas per wave period. Cross spectra were computed between suspended sediments and horizontal velocity. A maximum coherence ranging above .7 occurred at the first harmonic of the peak wave frequency. The suspended sand was well sorted quartz with a mean grain size of 0.15 mm. Suspended sand concentration appeared to decrease exponentially with height above the bottom with the rate of decrease and total concentration related to the mean bed shear stress. Mean sand concentration ranged between 0.05 to 0.32 grams of sand per liter of sea water. (Author).

The Turbulent Ocean
The Turbulent Ocean

Author: S. A. Thorpe

Publisher: Cambridge University Press

Published: 2005-10-27

Total Pages: 496

ISBN-13: 9781139445795

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The subject of ocean turbulence is in a state of discovery and development with many intellectual challenges. This book describes the principal dynamic processes that control the distribution of turbulence, its dissipation of kinetic energy and its effects on the dispersion of properties such as heat, salinity, and dissolved or suspended matter in the deep ocean, the shallow coastal and the continental shelf seas. It focuses on the measurement of turbulence, and the consequences of turbulent motion in the oceanic boundary layers at the sea surface and near the seabed. Processes are illustrated by examples of laboratory experiments and field observations. The Turbulent Ocean provides an excellent resource for senior undergraduate and graduate courses, as well as an introduction and general overview for researchers. It will be of interest to all those involved in the study of fluid motion, in particular geophysical fluid mechanics, meteorology and the dynamics of lakes.