An anthology drawn from the work of Australian writers, painters, and photographers to present a picture of the country's famous beaches, and the people who spend so much time on them.
“I don’t normally read books about surfers, but this is like Truman Capote, with shorts.” —Lee Child “Andy Martin, to his immense credit, knows that surfers are misfits and accidental comics, as well as great athletes.” —Matt Warshaw “A sublime mixing of stoke and sorrow, hedonism and the macabre—skillfully and deftly penned by someone who had, and still has, intimate access to many of the key players." —Tom Anderson, author of Riding the Magic Carpet: A Surfer's Odyssey to Find the Perfect Wave This is the true story of Ted, Viscount Deerhurst, the son of the Earl of Coventry and an American ballerina who dedicated his life to becoming a professional surfer. Surfing was a means of escape, from England, from the fraught charges of nobility, from family, and, often, from his own demons. Ted was good on the board, but never made it to the very highest ranks of a sport that, like most, treats second-best as nowhere at all. He kept on surfing, ending up where all surfers go to live or die, the paradise of Hawaii. There, in search of the “perfect woman,” he fell in love with a dancer called Lola, who worked in a Honolulu nightclub. The problem with paradise, as he was soon to discover, is that gangsters always get there first. Lola already had a serious boyfriend, a man who went by the name of Pit Bull. Ted was given fair warning to stay away. But he had a besetting sin, for which he paid the heaviest price: He never knew when to give up. Surf, Sweat and Tears takes us into the world of global surfing, revealing a dark side beneath the dazzling sun and cream-crested waves. Here is surf noir at its most compelling, a dystopian tale of one man’s obsessions, wiped out in a grisly true crime.
The inspirational story of one woman learning to surf and creating a new life in gritty, eccentric Rockaway Beach Unmoored by a failed marriage and disconnected from her high-octane life in the city, Diane Cardwell finds herself staring at a small group of surfers coasting through mellow waves toward shore--and senses something shift. Rockaway is the riveting, joyful story of one woman's reinvention--beginning with Cardwell taking the A Train to Rockaway, a neglected spit of land dangling off New York City into the Atlantic Ocean. She finds a teacher, buys a tiny bungalow, and throws her not-overly-athletic self headlong into learning the inner workings and rhythms of waves and the muscle development and coordination needed to ride them. As Cardwell begins to find her balance in the water and out, superstorm Sandy hits, sending her into the maelstrom in search of safer ground. In the aftermath, the community comes together and rebuilds, rekindling its bacchanalian spirit as a historic surfing community, one with its own quirky codes and surf culture. And Cardwell's surfing takes off as she finds a true home among her fellow passionate longboarders at the Rockaway Beach Surf Club, living out "the most joyful path through life." Rockaway is a stirring story of inner salvation sought through a challenging physical pursuit--and of learning to accept the idea of a complete reset, no matter when in life it comes.
When the first white men showed up in Hawaii in 1778 it was the middle of a long fall and winter festival during which various sexual techniques were demonstrated by nude hula dancers, couples engaged in a bowling for partners game, and people played various other competitive sports. The foreign explorers assumed that the Hawaiians never worked and that sex was a universal sport-so to speak. American missionaries soon put a stop to this enlightened custom, and tried their best to completely and permanently ban hula dancing and surfing (in the nude, of course). But as time passed and the first generation of missionaries went to their reward, surfing, hula dancing and the pursuit of sexual pleasures regained some of the ground they had lost. Today's Hawaii is not as laid back as it was in its pre-missionary days, but the sun, the sand, the surf and the islands still work their seductive magic on residents and visitors alike. For vacationers, going to Hawaii is like a honeymoon whe-ther they are newlyweds or not.
I watch him from the beach everyday.Bodhi Slater cuts through the giant Hawaiian waves like he was born to surf.He's gorgeous.That shaggy hair. Those dark eyes. Mmmmmm....And his shredded tattooed body is pure perfection.Every twist on his surfboard shows off a new ab muscle that I didn't even know existed.I thought I was too large for him, but one look at me and this rich billionaire surfer becomes obsessed.Who knew that Bodhi Slater likes his girls with curves?He's a possessive alpha who owns the island and gets whatever he wants.But what happens when all he wants is me?Who's ready for the beach? Grab your bathing suit and a cold drink because you're about to spend some time in the sand with a hot Over The Top surfer with a possessive attitude and a big board!
Young fashionista Lily Max reunites with her long-lost BFF Greer at a beautiful surf beach, where the movie 'Wave' is being filmed. A perfect summer together stretches out before them ... until local surfer-boy Ryder becomes an unwanted third wheel. When Lily Max auditions as the body-double of the young female lead and dares Greer and Ryder on a secret mission to a derelict lighthouse, things start to go weirdly wrong ...
From the bestselling author of Assholes: A Theory, a book that—in the tradition of Shopclass as Soulcraft, Barbarian Days and Zen and the Art of Motorcycle Maintenance—uses the experience and the ethos of surfing to explore key concepts in philosophy. The existentialist philosopher Jean-Paul Sartre once declared "the ideal limit of aquatic sports . . . is waterskiing." The avid surfer and lavishly credentialed academic philosopher Aaron James vigorously disagrees, and in Surfing with Sartre he intends to expound the thinking surfer's view of the matter, in the process elucidating such philosophical categories as freedom, being, phenomenology, morality, epistemology, and even the emerging values of what he terms "leisure capitalism." In developing his unique surfer-philosophical worldview, he draws from his own experience of surfing and from surf culture and lingo, and includes many relevant details from the lives of the philosophers, from Aristotle to Wittgenstein, with whose thought he engages. In the process, he'll speak to readers in search of personal and social meaning in our current anxious moment, by way of doing real, authentic philosophy.
SpongeBob is stoked to go surfing with Sandy, but he doesn't know how to surf. Luckily Patrick can show him everything he needs to know-right in his own backyard. And when it comes time to ride those gnarly waves, will SpongeBob actually be able to hang ten?
How many fat quarters does it take to make a quilt: 6, 8, 10, 12, 14? The choice is yours! America's favorite fabric cut gets a fun makeover in a dozen all-new patterns from popular blogger Andy Knowlton. In her signature happy color palette, Andy shares easy-to-sew quilts that will inspire quilters to break into those bundles, unfold their singles, or even cut yardage into 18" × 22" chunks of fabric to re-create her cheerful designs. Stars, pinwheels, arrows, and Churn Dashes are just a few of the classic motifs that get Andy's fresh fat-quarter treatment. No more excuses and no time to lose - quilters will love reducing and restocking their stashes to make these fat-quarter-friendly projects.
John Severson (born 1933) revolutionized pop culture's vision of surfing and surf culture through his prolific artistic output that transverses decades and disciplines. He began his career as a painter, selling his canvases at Long Beach State College. These first works consisted of oil paintings, photographs, drawings and prints relating to Hawaiian and Californian surf culture. In 1958, Severson expanded his repertoire and created a series of popular surf movies, such as Surf Safari, Surf Fever, Big Wednesday and Pacific Vibrations. While his were among the first surf movies, it was the posters associated with them, hugely popular when issued in the 1950s and 1960s, that remain collector favorites today. Showcased in these early posters, his graphic skills translated easily to Surfer magazine, which he founded in 1960. The magazine was the first to celebrate and revolutionize the art and sport of surfing, establishing it as a powerful pop culture phenomenon. The first issue was a 36-page collection of black-and-white photos, cartoon sketches and short articles--every aspect of which was created by Severson himself. His photographs appeared in Life, Sports Illustrated, Paris Match and other print venues. John Severson's SURF explores Severson's surf odyssey through painting, photography, film and publishing. Featuring an interview with the artist by Nathan Howe, artist and curator at Puka Puka, Hawaii, foreword by Gerry Lopez, surfer and co-founder of Lightning Bolt surfboards and afterword by Drew Kampion, author and former editor of Surfer, John Severson's SURF documents the birth of surf culture and serves as a testament to our ocean.