Perfume

Perfume

Author: Jean-Claude Ellena

Publisher: Skyhorse

Published: 2011-09-15

Total Pages: 136

ISBN-13: 1628721707

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To women the whole world over, perfume means glamour, and in the world of perfume, Jean-Claude Ellena is a superstar. In this one-of-a-kind book, the master himself takes you through the doors of his laboratory and explains the process of creating precious fragrances, revealing the key methods and recipes involved in this mysterious alchemy. Perfume is a cutthroat, secretive multibillion-dollar industry, and Ellena provides an insider’s tour, guiding us from initial inspiration through the mixing of essences and synthetic elements, to the deluxe packaging and marketing in elegant boutiques worldwide, and even the increasingly complicated safety standards that are set in motion for each bottle of perfume that is manufactured. He explains how the sense of smell works, using a palette of fragrant materials, and how he personally chooses and composes a perfume. He also reveals his unique way of creating a fragrance by playing with our olfactory memories in order to make the perfume seductive and desired by men and women the world over. Perfume illuminates the world of scent and manufactured desire by a perfumer who has had clients the likes of Cartier, Van Cleef & Arpels, Bulgari, and Hermés.


Perfume

Perfume

Author: Karen Gilbert

Publisher: CICO Books

Published: 2017-10-10

Total Pages: 0

ISBN-13: 9781782495260

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A complete introduction to the psychology and science of perfume, with instructions on using and layering scent, and making your own perfumed sprays, oils, and bath and body products. A complete introduction to the psychology and science of perfume, with instructions on using and layering scent, and making your own perfumed sprays, oils, and bath and body products. At a time when advertising bombards us with the hard sell for the latest celebrity perfumes, fragrance expert Karen Gilbert shows how to create and blend your very own signature scent. Perfume: The Art and Craft of Fragrance introduces us to the psychology of smell and explains how fragrance can influence our moods and behavior, and gives a brief overview of perfume through the ages. A key chapter teaches you how to train your nose to recognize the five different fragrance families (floral, oriental, citrus, chypre, fougère), and how to identify the top, middle, and base notes of a perfume. Once you have understood the basics of how to build a fragrance, learn how to layer scents by creating perfume oils, sprays, and solids, plus scented bath and body products and home fragrance sprays from the easy step-by-step recipes. Illustrated throughout with charming artworks and photographs, Perfume: The Art and Craft of Fragrance is the perfect introduction to the art and romance of creating perfume.


Perfumery

Perfumery

Author: Robert R. Calkin

Publisher: John Wiley & Sons

Published: 1994-09-28

Total Pages: 308

ISBN-13: 9780471589341

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A text/reference regarding the structure and function of components used in perfume development and the process of developing perfumes. Covers gas chromatography, mass spectrometry and a host of other analytical techniques; the esthetics and techniques of perfume development; the manifold and ever-changing safety-related requirements of countries and customers; concerns about the environmental impact of materials and impurities which affect the perfumer's work.


The Ghost Perfumer

The Ghost Perfumer

Author: Gabe Oppenheim

Publisher: Independently Published

Published: 2021-12-23

Total Pages: 258

ISBN-13:

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This is the story of a genius and a fraud. For more than half a century, Olivier Creed, heir to a French fashion empire but out to conquer an adjacent field by himself, created the most compelling and costly perfumes in the world - scents so successful - artistically and commercially - that the world's largest asset manager bought his small olfactory enterprise for nearly $1 billion in 2020. One could arguably have called him the world's most capable perfumer. Except Olivier Creed never authored the scents for which he has long received acclaim and lucre. Gabe Oppenheim reveals the heretofore untold story behind this supposed-cologne colossus of a man - and the eponymous company that became a social media sensation: That scents were authored by someone else entirely - a brilliant ghostwriter - a hidden, scholarly figure with a great passion for Proust and an unfortunate tendency to doubt the quality of his own compositions. How these two figures met and the arrangement was struck - how they circled each other warily for the next 40 years - how lies, told often enough, became truths - Gabe Oppenheim examines as he journeys into the heart of an industry mystifying and fanciful, enormous and intimate, sensuous and yet so-damn-insubstantial. It's an expedition that takes him to a Creed shop in Dubai and the castle in Normandy where the Ghost resides, having left behind a Parisian world that, in some sense, never acknowledged him. And yet, he's a legend in a certain section of the scented demimonde for a few achievements so innovative he wouldn't yield them even to a charismatic manipulator. Oppenheim explores issues of attribution and artistry, credit and craftsmanship, ingenuity and disingenuousness. "The Ghost Perfumer" is the story of a genius and a fraud. And perhaps the greatest con in the history of luxury retail.


The Psychological Basis of Perfumery

The Psychological Basis of Perfumery

Author: J. Stephan Jellinek

Publisher: Springer Science & Business Media

Published: 2012-12-06

Total Pages: 275

ISBN-13: 9400915675

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During the many years of its publication and subsequent revisions, Paul Jellinek's book has been the standard work on its subject. This new edition, translated into English for the first time, was conceived in response to the increased interest in recent years in perfumes and the sense of smell. This interest has come not only from within the highly competitive perfumery industry, but also from psychologists and market researchers. The original text has impressively withstood the test of time and the approach of this new book has been to supplement it with chapters that are now of critical importance, but which were only touched upon in the original book. A market researcher looks at why people use perfumes; a psychologist examines the motivation of perfume choice; another psychologist discusses odours and a perfumer looks at the effects of odours on human experience and behaviour. In the final chapter the editor compares the original author's views with those of today's experts and suggests which aspects are still valid and in what areas divergent views now prevail. This book is written principally to provide a scientific basis to the craft of perfumery and to enable formulators and marketeers to understand why the smells they create and sell have the effect they do. It allows a systematic approach to the development of these products. Others outside the industry, including psychologists in academia, will find the book an essential reference source.


Fragrant

Fragrant

Author: Mandy Aftel

Publisher: Penguin

Published: 2014-10-16

Total Pages: 290

ISBN-13: 1101614684

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Winner of the 2016 Perfumed Plume Award The “Alice Waters of American natural perfume” (indieperfume.com) and author of the Art of Flavor celebrates our most potent sense, through five rock stars of the fragrant world Mandy Aftel is widely acclaimed as a trailblazer in natural perfumery. Over two decades of sourcing the finest aromatic ingredients from all over the world and creating artisanal fragrances, she has been an evangelist for the transformative power of scent. In Fragrant, through five major players in the epic of aroma, she explores the profound connection between our sense of smell and the appetites that move us, give us pleasure, make us fully alive. Cinnamon, queen of the Spice Route, touches our hunger for the unknown, the exotic, the luxurious. Mint, homegrown the world over, speaks to our affinity for the familiar, the native, the authentic. Frankincense, an ancient incense ingredient, taps into our longing for transcendence, while ambergris embodies our unquenchable curiosity. And exquisite jasmine exemplifies our yearning for beauty, both evanescent and enduring. In addition to providing a riveting initiation into the history, natural history, and philosophy of scent, Fragrant imparts the essentials of scent literacy and includes recipes for easy-to-make fragrances and edible, drinkable, and useful concoctions that reveal the imaginative possibilities of creating with—and reveling in—aroma. Vintage line drawings make for a volume that will be a treasured gift as well as a great read.


Essence and Alchemy

Essence and Alchemy

Author: Mandy Aftel

Publisher: North Point Press

Published: 2011-04-01

Total Pages: 304

ISBN-13: 1429936126

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An artisan perfumer reveals a lost art and its mysterious, sensual history. For centuries, people have taken what seems to be an instinctive pleasure in rubbing scents into their skin. Perfume has helped them to pray, to heal, and to make love. And as long as there has been perfume, there have been perfumers, or rather the priests, shamans, and apothecaries who were their predecessors. Yet, in many ways, perfumery is a lost art, its creative and sensual possibilities eclipsed by the synthetic ingredients of which contemporary perfumes are composed, which have none of the subtlety and complexity of essences derived from natural substances, nor their lush histories. Essence and Alchemy resurrects the social and metaphysical legacy that is entwined with the evolution of perfumery, from the dramas of the spice trade to the quests of the alchemists to whom today's perfumers owe a philosophical as well as a practical debt. Mandy Aftel tracks scent through the boudoir and the bath and into the sanctums of worship, offering insights on the relationship of scent to sex, solitude, and the soul. Along the way, she imparts instruction in the art of perfume compositions, complete with recipes, guiding the reader in a process of transformation of materials that continues to follow the alchemical dictum solve et coagula (dissolve and combine) and is itself aesthetically and spiritually transforming.


The Essence of Perfume

The Essence of Perfume

Author: Roja Dove

Publisher: Black Dog Pub Limited

Published: 2014

Total Pages: 351

ISBN-13: 9781908966469

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As the world's leading perfume authority, Dove leads readers on an extravagant journey through the world of scent, from Ancient Egypt to the present. Beginning with a comprehensive discussion of the sense of smell and the materials of the master perfumer, Dove goes on to celebrate the great classics, the makers who brought them to life and the bottle makers who gave them shape.


Perfumery

Perfumery

Author: Steve Van Toller

Publisher: Springer Science & Business Media

Published: 2013-04-17

Total Pages: 281

ISBN-13: 9401725586

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THE SENSE OF SMELL The nose is normally mistakenly assumed to be the organ of smell reception. It is not. The primary function of the nose is to regulate the temperature and humidity of inspired air, thereby protecting the delicate linings of the lungs. This is achieved by the breathed air passing through narrow passageways formed by three nasal turbinates in each nostril. The turbinates are covered by spongy vascular cells which can expand or contract to open or close the nasal pathways. The olfactory receptors, innervated by the 1st cranial nerve, are located at the top of the nose. There are about 50 million smell receptors in the human olfactory epithelia, the total size of which, in humans, is about that of a small postage stamp, with half being at the top of the left and half at the top of the right nostril. The receptive surfaces of olfactory cells are ciliated and extend into a covering layer of mucus. There is a constant turnover of olfactory cells. Their average active life has been estimated to be about 28 days.