London Society Fashion 1905 1925
London Society Fashion 1905 1925

Author: Cassie Davies-Strodder

Publisher: Victoria & Albert Museum

Published: 2015-05-05

Total Pages: 0

ISBN-13: 9781851778317

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Over 80 years ago, Heather Firbank packed away her extensive collection of fine clothes, bought from London's very best dressmakers and tailors. These treasures lay undiscovered for the next 30 years, until after her death, they were given to the V&A, laying the foundations for the Museum's world-famous collection. Firbank was an enthusiastic shopper and bought her clothes from the world's leading couture houses, including Lucile, Redfern and Mascotte, as well as private dressmakers and department stores. Her collection forms an invaluable record of fashionable Edwardian taste over a period of some 15 years. Beautifully illustrated with new photography of finely crafted evening gowns, tailored suits and glamorous hats, the book also features contemporary photographs and pages from Heather's own albums of fashion cuttings. It vividly maps out the London couture scene of Edwardian Britain, and charts changes in fashion through the tumultuous first decades of the twentieth century. Through the story of Heather's own life, both joyous and troubled, this book celebrates the central role of clothing in creating a single woman's identity.

Etta Lemon
Etta Lemon

Author: Tessa Boase

Publisher: Aurum Press

Published: 2021-07-06

Total Pages: 352

ISBN-13: 0711263388

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Etta Lemon: The Woman Who Saved the Birds is the story of a pioneering conservationist who led the campaign against the slaughter of wild birds for extravagantly feathered hats and coaxed the world to care for birds.

Hats
Hats

Author: Clair Hughes

Publisher: Bloomsbury Publishing

Published: 2017-06-01

Total Pages: 289

ISBN-13: 0857851586

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Although a hat may be designed for the purpose of practicality or aesthetics, it is part of a complex interplay of wider cultural meanings. Throughout history hats have played a significant role in expressing and revealing notions of class, gender, authority, fashion and etiquette. By examining the consumption and production of hats from the 18th century to the present day, this book explores their significance as markers of social and cultural change. Taking a thematic approach, Clair Hughes charts how headgear during the modern era has been shaped by status, gender and necessity. Using case studies such as the bowler hat, which has moved up and down classes and professions, Hughes reveals that although a hat might seem bound to its status and context, it is as susceptible to subversion and reinvention as the society which creates it. From the transition of pilots' helmets from practical headgear to fashion items, to the Slouch hat and the baseball cap, hats have responded to cultural or political movements, often becoming conscious displays of identity and social allegiance. Drawing from material and historical research as well as depictions in art, literature and film, Hughes provides a fascinating insight into hats as a visible performance of social values and culture.

Paris Fashion and World War Two
Paris Fashion and World War Two

Author: Lou Taylor

Publisher: Bloomsbury Publishing

Published: 2020-01-09

Total Pages: 629

ISBN-13: 1350000299

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Winner of the Association of Dress Historians Book of the Year Award, 2021 In 1939, fashion became an economic and symbolic sphere of great importance in France. Invasive textile legislation, rationing and threats from German and American couturiers were pushing the design and trade of Parisian style to its limits. It is widely accepted that French fashion was severely curtailed as a result, isolated from former foreign clients and deposed of its crown as global queen of fashion. This pioneering book offers a different story. Arguing that Paris retained its hold on the international haute couture industry right throughout WWII, eminent dress historians and curators come together to show that, amid political, economic and cultural traumas, Paris fashion remained very much alive under the Nazi occupation – and on an international level. Bringing exciting perspectives to challenge a familiar story and introducing new overseas trade links out of occupied France, this book takes us from the salons of renowned couturiers such as Edward Molyneux and Robert Piguet, French Vogue and Le Jardin des Modes and luxury Lyon silk factories, to Rio de Janeiro, Denmark and Switzerland, and the great American department stores of New York. Also comparing extravagant Paris occupation styles to austerity fashions of the UK and USA, parallel industrial and design developments highlight the unresolvable tension between luxury fashion and the everyday realities of wartime life. Showing that Paris strove to maintain world dominance as leader of couture through fashion journalism, photography and exported fashion forecasting, Paris Fashion and World War Two makes a significant contribution to the cultural history of fashion.

Edwardian Fashion
Edwardian Fashion

Author: Daniel Milford-Cottam

Publisher: Bloomsbury Publishing

Published: 2014-02-10

Total Pages: 65

ISBN-13: 0747814767

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Fashion in the Edwardian period underwent some quite revolutionary changes. The delicately coloured, flower-and-lace-trimmed trailing gowns and elaborate hairstyles worn by tightly corseted fashionable ladies in the early years of Edward VII's reign would transform into the boldly coloured, dramatically stylized Eastern-inspired kimono wraps, slender hobble skirts, ankle-skimming tunic dresses and turbans of 1914 on the eve of the First World War. This book presents the story of women's and men's dress through this exciting period, and is a fascinating addition to the bestselling Shire fashion list that already includes Fashion in the Time of Jane Austen and Fashion in the Time of the Great Gatsby.

The Corseted Skeleton
The Corseted Skeleton

Author: Rebecca Gibson

Publisher: Springer Nature

Published: 2020-11-16

Total Pages: 290

ISBN-13: 3030503925

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Unpacking assumptions about corseting, Rebecca Gibson supplements narratives of corseted women from the 18th and 19th centuries with her seminal work on corset-related skeletal deformation. An undergarment that provided support and shape for centuries, the corset occupies a familiar but exotic space in modern consciousness, created by two sometimes contradictory narrative arcs: the texts that women wrote regarding their own corseting experiences and the recorded opinions of the medical community during the 19th century. Combining these texts with skeletal age data and rib and vertebrae measurements from remains at St. Bride’s parish London dating from 1700 to 1900, the author discusses corseting in terms of health and longevity, situates corseting as an everyday practice that crossed urban socio-economic boundaries, and attests to the practice as part of normal female life during the time period Gibson’s bioarchaeology of binding is is the first large-scalar, multi-site bioethnography of the corseted woman.

Hendrik Petrus Berlage
Hendrik Petrus Berlage

Author: Hendrik Petrus Berlage

Publisher: Getty Publications

Published: 1996-01-01

Total Pages: 350

ISBN-13: 0892363339

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Hendrik Petrus Berlage, the Dutch architect and architectural philosopher, created a series of buildings and a body of writings from 1886 to 1909 that were among the first efforts to probe the problems and possibilities of modernism. Although his Amsterdam Stock Exchange, with its rational mastery of materials and space, has long been celebrated for its seminal influence on the architecture of the 20th century, Berlage's writings are highlighted here. Bringing together Berlage's most important texts, among them "Thoughts on Style in Architecture", "Architecture's Place in Modern Aesthetics", and "Art and Society", this volume presents a chapter in the history of European modernism. In his introduction, Iain Boyd Whyte demonstrates that the substantial contribution of Berlage's designs to modern architecture cannot be fully appreciated without an understanding of the aesthetic principles first laid out in his writings.

Fashion Independent
Fashion Independent

Author: Dennita Sewell

Publisher:

Published: 2011

Total Pages: 0

ISBN-13: 9780984408115

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A celebration of Ann Bonfoey Taylor's extraordinary wardrobe of couture and custom-designed sporting ensembles Ann Bonfoey Taylor (1910-2007) was a pioneering female flight instructor during World War II, was a member of the US Olympic Ski Squad in 1939, competed in tennis at Wimbledon and was accomplished at riding and shooting. Recognized among an international jet-setting social circle as a wonderful hostess at her magnificent homes in Colorado and Montana, Taylor also played a leading role as a style icon. She was captured in photographs by artists such as Edward Steichen, Louise Dahl-Wolfe and Toni Frissell, and was regularly featured in publications such as Vogue, Town and Country and Harper's Bazaar from the 1930s through the 1970s. In 2008, her extraordinary wardrobe of couture and custom-designed sporting ensembles was donated to Phoenix Art Museum. Selected by Art and Antiques as one of the top 100 art museum gifts of 2008, Taylor's impressive collection features works by some of the most masterful fashion designers of the 1950s and 60s, including Charles James, Balenciaga, Givenchy and Madame Grès. The collection is significant for both the quality of the designers and for its depth, as the numerous examples allow for a comprehensive look at each designer's artistic process. Fashion Independent: The Original Style of Ann Bonfoey Taylor features more than 60 full ensembles and accessories that provide a comprehensive look at the wardrobe of a dynamic and sophisticated woman.

Wall Street and the Russian Revolution
Wall Street and the Russian Revolution

Author: Richard Spence

Publisher: TrineDay

Published: 2017-06-07

Total Pages: 358

ISBN-13: 163424124X

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Wall Street and the Russian Revolution will give readers critical insight into what might be called the "Secret History of the 20th century." The Russian Revolution, like the war in which it was born, represents the real beginning of the modern world. The book will look not just at the sweep of events, but probe the economic, ideological and personal motivations of the key figures involved, revealing heretofore unknown or misunderstood connections. Was Trotsky, for instance, a political genius, an unprincipled egomaniac, or something of each? Readers should come away with not only a far deeper understanding of what happened in Russia a century ago, but also what happened in America and how that still shapes the relations of the twocountries today.

The Dressed Society
The Dressed Society

Author: Peter Corrigan

Publisher: SAGE

Published: 2008-01-16

Total Pages: 246

ISBN-13: 1473903092

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It was traditionally said that ′clothes maketh the man′. But what codes and meanings are associated with dress in a society that consists of divisions between class, race, gender, family status and religion? Is social and cultural life still fundamentally themed by the clothes that we wear? If so, how should we read these codes and themes in order to decipher their relation to power and meaning? This exhaustive book demonstrates how dress shapes and is shaped by social processes and phenomena such as beauty, time, the body, the gift exchange, class, gender and religion. It does this through an analysis of topics like the Islamic clothing controversy in state schools, the multitude of identities associated with dress, the Dress Reform movement, the construction of the body in fashion magazines and the role of the internet in fashion. What emerges is a trenchant, sharply observed account of the place of dress in contemporary society. The book will be of interest to students and researchers in Sociology, Cultural Studies, Women′s Studies, Gender Studies, Anthropology and Fashion Studies.