Legends of Surfing

Legends of Surfing

Author: Duke Boyd

Publisher: MVP Books

Published: 2009-11-07

Total Pages: 208

ISBN-13: 1616731087

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Surfing, Jack London remarked, is “a royal sport for the natural kings of earth.” The greatest of those natural kings grant readers an audience in this glorious celebration of the world’s best surfers. Part exquisite picture book and travelogue to the top of the world, part biography and reference guidebook, Legends of Surfing profiles one hundred great surfers, men and women, from throughout the world. In life stories, and in exclusive interviews--which only the surfing icon Duke Boyd could have pulled off--stellar surfers such as Wayne Bartholomew, Tom Curren, Andy and Bruce Irons, Duke Kahanamoku, Dave Kalama, Gerry Lopez, Rob Machado, Mark Occhilupo, and Kelly Slater give us a rare firsthand look at what it’s like, in this crowded world, to “seek and find the perfect day, the perfect wave, and be alone with the surf and his thoughts.” (John Severson, Surfer magazine, 1960)


Legends of the Sandbar

Legends of the Sandbar

Author: Christopher Bickford

Publisher:

Published: 2017-06-01

Total Pages: 250

ISBN-13: 9780983786481

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A photographic and textual homage to the surfing community of the Outer Banks of North Carolina, written and photographed by Christopher Bickford. Mixes in-water photography with landscape and lifestyle photographs, and includes a variety of stories on the history, culture, and experience of the tight-knit community of waterlogged surf-heroes that make there homes on this thin strip of sand dangling on the edge of the continental shelf.


Surfing Florida

Surfing Florida

Author: Paul Aho

Publisher:

Published: 2014

Total Pages: 0

ISBN-13: 9780813049489

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This book offers a lively and well-researched visual history of Florida surfing--its origins, its people and personalities, its innovations, its deep influence on the sport's international reach.


Making Mavericks

Making Mavericks

Author: Frosty Hesson

Publisher: Skyhorse

Published: 2012-10-26

Total Pages: 320

ISBN-13: 9781620878750

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When Richard “Frosty” Hesson was first approached by a young Jay Moriarty in 1990, the skinny kid with a sparkle in his eye only wanted one thing from the icon: his help in becoming a better surfer. Hesson, one of the first to conquer the huge waves off northern California known as Mavericks, recognized that the kid “had a vision.” Jay quickly demonstrated a resolve that reminded Frosty of his younger self, pursuing his goal with a seriousness far beyond his years. His attitude and work ethic earned Frosty’s respect and, eventually, his friendship. Making Mavericks is the inspiring story of their father-son bond and of the challenges that made each of them who they were—surf legends, and the subject of the upcoming film Chasing Mavericks. In Making Mavericks, Frosty talks about his turbulent youth spent under difficult circumstances, with parents who tried to find a positive way to handle a child with a passion for water and a disregard for his own safety. Throughout his life he developed principles to live by, principles that would become the core tenets of his teaching philosophy. Most significantly, Frosty talks about how one of his best students, Jay Moriarty, used his philosophy to become a surfing phenomenon, and whose life inspired the phrase, “Live like Jay.” Affecting and poignant, Making Mavericks is a celebration of Hesson’s determination to live with joy and purpose, and his desire to help others do the same.


Surfing Legends Alphabet

Surfing Legends Alphabet

Author: Beck Feiner

Publisher:

Published: 2020-03-12

Total Pages:

ISBN-13: 9780648672456

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From Duke Kahanamoku to Kelly Slater, Lisa Andersen to Margo Oberg, Surfing Legends Alphabet presents the A to Z of the greatest of greats who have ever dared to tame the angry sea. Cutely illustrated and passionately written, Surf Legends Alphabet is sure to make a splash with any young, or not so young, lover of the greatest water sport known to woman and man.


San Onofre

San Onofre

Author: David F. MKatuszak

Publisher:

Published: 2018-09-02

Total Pages:

ISBN-13: 9780963358288

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San Onofre: Memories of a Legendary Surfing Beach is a landmark achievement in the study of surfing history and culture from its origins in Polynesia, Peru, and Africa, to the role that San Onofre played in molding California surf culture.San Onofre is the story of the California surfing culture as seen through the eyes of the surfers at San Onofre Surf Beach. Pioneer surfers tell their own story of the Golden Age of Surfing and illustrate their tales with never-before-seen vintage photographs from their own family albums. Their stories offer a priceless collection of primary source data for future studies of the sport.


Surf by Day, Jam by Night

Surf by Day, Jam by Night

Author: Ash Grunwald

Publisher: Pantera Press

Published: 2019-08-19

Total Pages: 334

ISBN-13: 1925700453

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Surf by Day, Jam by Night is seasoned bluesman and surfer Ash Grunwald's deep dive into the extraordinary. Ash takes to the road, interviewing 15 of the world's top surfer–musicians. From Kelly Slater to Stephanie Gilmore, Jack Johnson to Dave Rastovich, Pete Murray to G. Love and many more, like Ash, these are people doing life their own way. Soulful and candid, these conversations offer insights into the lives and minds of some masters of both surfing and music. Spanning stories of heavy wipe-outs and heaving crowds and riffs on style, the flow state, career longevity and jamming vs shredding, this book is an often light-hearted, wide-ranging meditation on what it really takes to live your dreams. If you've ever found yourself in any kind of rut and wondered if there's something more out there, here's a call to wake up, take your life into your hands and dare to follow your passions.


The Big Drop

The Big Drop

Author: John Long

Publisher: Falcon Guides

Published: 1999

Total Pages: 260

ISBN-13: 9781560449171

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A classic collection of big wave surfing stories that heralded a new era in surfing literature--32 tantalizing and terrifying true tales from the sport's pioneers


Big Wave Surfer

Big Wave Surfer

Author: Kai Lenny

Publisher: Rizzoli Publications

Published: 2021-10-26

Total Pages: 306

ISBN-13: 0847870855

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A jaw-dropping photographic display of the world of big wave surfing, featuring the biggest and most dangerous waves and the legendary men and women who risk their lives to surf them. Over the last decade, a handful of surfers have been progressing the sport of big wave surfing to new extremes. Kai Lenny, one of the preeminent big wave surfers, offers readers a glimpse into this world. Lenny shares his personal stories and perspectives, and invites over 30 elite surfers—from legends who pioneered the way, to young guns who are the future of the sport—to contribute personal tales of the greatest waves ever ridden. These are the stories we’ve been waiting for: Shane Dorian pushing the boundaries in the gladiator arena of Pe‘ahi (Jaws), Maui; Peter Mel on riding the greatest wave ever caught at Mavericks, California; Keala Kennelly breaking the women’s glass ceiling at the death-defying slabs of Teahupoo, Tahiti; Kai Lenny and Lucas Chumbo’s groundbreaking wins at the incredible Nazaré, Portugal; Brett Lickle’s epic incident at the mystical Pyramids with Laird Hamilton, and many more. Accompanying stunning photographs from the world’s top surf photographers capture the drama of life and death, and the unwavering commitment of these brave extreme athletes.


The Encyclopedia of Surfing

The Encyclopedia of Surfing

Author: Matt Warshaw

Publisher: Houghton Mifflin Harcourt

Published: 2005

Total Pages: 820

ISBN-13: 9780156032513

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With 1,500 alphabetical entries and 300 illustrations, this resource is a comprehensive review of the people, places, events, equipment, vernacular, and lively history of this fascinating sport.