Many people consider haute couture died in 1950 when ready-to-wear fashion came on the market. Since then fashion has undergone fundamental changes. Nonetheless, there will always be a certain demand for beautiful, individually made clothes, but the future will never be as lavish and as magnificent as the period here investigated. The author traces its history from Charles Frederick Worth, the first global fashion dictator and Imperial French dressmaker, to Geoffrey Wallis who wished to make good design available to all. -- Google books
A comprehensive history of high fashion in Paris from Madame Grès and Balenciaga to Yves Saint Laurent and Yohji Yamamoto, spanning all aspects from clothing and accessories to perfume. Ever since Charles Frederick Worth dressed the Empress Eugénie in the 1860s, launching a "golden century" for dressmaking, Parisian haute couture has been a source of endless admiration and fascination. Its emphasis on exquisite design and meticulous craftsmanship propelled it to the forefront of the fashion industry. The position and practices of haute couture may have evolved over time, but the work of many contemporary couturiers reveals a strong sense of continuity, from the creations of Jeanne Lanvin and Christian Dior, through to their modern counterparts in Jean-Paul Gaultier or Viktor & Rolf. This chronological study traces the history of the esteemed couture houses of Paris, examining the role of the designer and the extraordinary craftsmanship behind the finished creations, the place of haute couture in Parisian culture, and its influence in the wider fashion industry. Particular attention is paid to the relationship between haute couture and the client, as well as the dualities in modern haute couture—its sense of exclusivity and quasi-mythical aura countered by an ever-increasing reach into popular consciousness and attainability. This volume is richly illustrated with images of the most superb pieces created by exceptional designers. Various incarnations of Chanel’s timeless quilted handbag, Fath’s charmingly patterned silk scarves, and Poiret’s elegant perfume bottles demonstrate that haute couture encompasses far more than just clothing.
Paris has been the international capital of fashion for more than 300 years. Even before the rise of the haute couture, Parisians were notorious for their obsession with fashion, and foreigners eagerly followed their lead. From Charles Frederick Worth to Gabrielle “Coco” Chanel, Christian Dior, and Yves Saint Laurent, fashion history is dominated by the names of Parisian couturiers. But Valerie Steele's Paris Fashion is much more than just a history of great designers. This fascinating book demonstrates that the success of Paris ultimately rests on the strength of its fashion culture – created by a host of fashion performers and spectators, including actresses, dandies, milliners, artists, and writers. First published in 1988 to great international acclaim, this pioneering book has now been completely revised and brought up to date, encompassing the rise of fashion's multiple world cities in the 21st century. Lavishly illustrated, deeply learned, and elegantly written, Valerie Steele's masterwork explores with brilliance and flair why Paris remains the capital of fashion.
Published to accompany an exhibition at the Metropolitan Museum's Costume Institute, December 1995-March 1996. A lovely presentation of designs that exemplify the rise of haute couture--that is, fashion driven by the artistic expression of the designer rather than by the dictates of clients. The thoroughly captioned selections represent the history of haute couture from its beginings in mid-19th century Paris to the present-day creations of major designers. Tailoring and dressmaking techniques as well as the decoration produced by embroiderers, beaders, lace makers, feather workers, and other craftspeople are discussed in the explanatory text. No bibliography. Distributed by Abrams. Annotation copyright by Book News, Inc., Portland, OR
The first illustrated monograph dedicated to the history of the House of Worth, the world’s pioneering haute couture label Arriving in Paris in 1845, at the age of twenty and with only a few francs in his pocket, Charles Frederick Worth would go on to build the most prominent, innovative, and successful fashion house of the century. He was inspired by a love of fine art, luxurious fabrics, and his vision of the female ideal, and was the first to set out to dictate new styles and silhouettes to his elite clientele— not the other way around. He hosted them in his rue de la Paix salons, which included groundbreaking sportswear and maternity departments as well as silk, velvet, and brocade rooms, and a special salon with closed shutters and gas lighting designed to allow clients to try on ball gowns in lighting conditions precisely matched to those of the event at which they would be worn. Organized chronologically and illustrated with striking ensembles, paintings, and documents sourced from both private family archives and the best fashion collections from museums around the world, The House of Worth is an inspiring tribute to the house that started it all.
Since Charles Fredrick Worth established his luxurious Maison de Couture in 1858, the interior has played a crucial role in the display of fashion. House of Fashion provides a full historical account of the interplay between fashion and the modern interior, demonstrating how they continue to function as a site for performing modern, gendered identities for designers and their clientele alike. In doing so, it traces how designers including Poiret, Vionnet, Schiaparelli and Dior used commercial spaces and domestic interiors to enhance their credentials as connoisseurs of taste and style. Taking us from the early years of haute couture to the luxury fashion of the present day, Berry explores how the salon, the atelier and the boutique have allowed fashion to move beyond the aesthetics of dress, to embrace the visual seduction of the theatrical, artistic, and the exotic. From the Art Deco allure of Coco Chanel's Maison to the luminous spaces of contemporary flagship stores, House of Fashion sets out fashion's links with key figures in architecture and design, including Louis Süe, Robert Mallet-Stevens, Eileen Gray, and Jean-Michel Frank. Drawing on photographs, advertisements, paintings and illustrations, this interdisciplinary study examines how fashionable interiors have shaped our understanding of architecture, dress, and elegance.
Arguably the most famous fashion designer of the 20th century, Christian Dior's feminine fashions were desired, worn, and emulated by women around the world. This new publication by ROM Press explores in detail what it was about Dior's dramatic creations-the cuts, textiles and embroideries-that stimulated the entire Paris haute couture industry after the devastation of the Second World War. The book features the Royal Ontario Museum's collection of Christian Dior couture (1947-1957), and is accompanied by sketches and documentary material from Christian Dior Héritage, along with archival images and striking photographs of the museum garments taken by world-renowned Dior photographer Laziz Hamani. The collection features beautiful designs from daytime to evening wear. The publication breaks new ground as it explains key Dior design signatures, based on the use of innovative and historical dressmaking techniques to explain what made the New Look so successful and why his designs were worn and emulated by woman around the world in the 1950s. Christian Dior presents new information drawn from extensive research wedded with close examination of the designs within this catalogue, making it an essential read for those interested in fashion, art, culture, and history.
Milestones of the Dior look from 1947 to now In celebration of Dior's 70th anniversary and produced in close collaboration with the House of Dior, one of the world's most prestigious couture houses, this beautiful publication features garments designed by Christian Dior Couture between 1947 and 2017 and more than 100 stunning images. The House of Diorexplores the story of the fashion house through a series of themes, featuring works by the seven designers who have played key roles in shaping Dior's renowned fashionable silhouette: Christian Dior, Yves Saint Laurent, Marc Bohan, Gianfranco Ferré, John Galliano, Raf Simons and Maria Grazia Chiuri. It narrates Dior's rich history, including Christian Dior's early influences, insights into the Dior atelier workrooms, the role that accessories and perfume have played in expressing the complete Dior look and the milestones of its six successive designers following Dior's sudden death in 1957. Highlights include examples from Christian Dior's iconic spring 1947 New Look collection, magnificent displays of Dior's signature ball gowns and evening dresses, as well as designs from the inaugural couture collection of the House's first female head designer, Maria Grazia Chiuri. Sumptuous in its design, this large-format hardback is led by full-page photography of works, and historical and contextual imagery. Writers include leading fashion writer Lydia Kamitsis and curators Katie Somerville and Danielle Whitfield.
On November 28, 1973, the world's social elite gathered at the Palace of Versailles for an international fashion show. By the time the curtain came down on the evening's spectacle, history had been made and the industry had been forever transformed. This is that story. Conceived as a fund-raiser for the restoration of King Louis XIV's palace, in the late fall of 1973, five top American designers faced off against five top French designers in an over-the-top runway extravaganza. An audience filled with celebrities and international jet-setters, including Princess Grace of Monaco, the Duchess of Windsor, Paloma Picasso, and Andy Warhol, were treated to an opulent performance featuring Liza Minnelli, Josephine Baker, and Rudolph Nureyev. What they saw would forever alter the history of fashion. The Americans at the Battle of Versailles– Oscar de la Renta, Bill Blass, Anne Klein, Halston, and Stephen Burrows – showed their work against the five French designers considered the best in the world – Yves Saint Laurent, Hubert de Givenchy, Pierre Cardin, Emanuel Ungaro, and Marc Bohan of Christian Dior. Plagued by in-fighting, outsized egos, shoestring budgets, and innumerable technical difficulties, the American contingent had little chance of meeting the European's exquisite and refined standards. But against all odds, the American energy and the domination by the fearless models (ten of whom, in a groundbreaking move, were African American) sent the audience reeling. By the end of the evening, the Americans had officially taken their place on the world's stage, prompting a major shift in the way race, gender, sexuality, and economics would be treated in fashion for decades to come. As the curtain came down on The Battle of Versailles, American fashion was born; no longer would the world look to Europe to determine the stylistic trends of the day, from here forward, American sensibility and taste would command the world's attention. Pulitzer-Prize winning fashion journalist Robin Givhan offers a lively and meticulously well-researched account of this unique event. The Battle of Versailles is a sharp, engaging cultural history; this intimate examination of a single moment shows us how the world of fashion as we know it came to be.
