Computer grading and automation now make it more necessary than ever to first understand and practice the basic operations of hand grading. This book is for those involved in the design or production of the women's and men's ready-to-wear apparel industry.
This classic text offers students and industry professionals detailed step-by-step instructions and illustrations for grading pattern pieces for women's, men's and children's wear.
This step-by-step introduction to grading combines the theory of pattern grading with its practical applications. After presenting the x, y orientation to familiarize readers with the concepts of computer grading and using the Cartesian graph, the text takes a holistic approach, integrating anthropometry, size specifications, and grade guides into the grading process for women's garments with emphasis on maintaining fit and style sense. Concepts are also applicable to grading men's and children's patterns. The 3rd Edition is user friendly, with completed grading charts and practice exercises in every chapter. The text has been updated with current sizing and industry classification standards. New to this Edition: - Expanded discussion of computer grading technology including Optitex, Gerber, Lectra, and Tukatech software - 20% new end of chapter exercise questions - More coverage of grading pants with new illustrations - New grading design variations for the skirt back grade, two dart bodice front, bodice with midriff, bodice with yokes, asymmetrical styles, skirts with pockets,and the two-piece sleeve - Added discussion of stack points, full grade and half grade - New Test Bank with terminology testing, t/f, multiple choice, and an answer key
This fourth edition of Metric Pattern Cutting for Children's Wear and Babywear remains the standard text book but has three major improvements. First, the sections have been re-organised to reflect changes in producing and marketing children's clothes. Today's popularity of easy-fitting styles and knitted fabrics means that basic 'flat' pattern cutting is used to construct the majority of children's wear and babywear and this type of cutting is therefore emphasised in this new edition. Shaped blocks and garments, cut to fit the body form, are still included, and are placed in chapters covering some school uniform garments or more expensive fashion or formal clothes. The book now clearly separates the sections useful to student beginners (Parts One, Two and Three), and also offers more advanced or specialist sections for students who wish to pursue a career in children's wear or for designers working in the different manufacturing sectors of the trade. The second change in this fourth edition is the introduction of colour coding to the sections; this makes it easier to identify specific processes in the book and enhances the illustrations. Finally, the size charts have been revised to reflect the changes in body sizing. The clear division of the boys' and girls' measurements in the charts has been in response to the way clothes are marketed and to co-ordinate with European size charts. 'Plus' charts for heavier children have also been added.
Grading is an underrated aspect of the fashion industry. This book aims to give a general description of what grading involves, to explain the principles that govern grading formulae and to provide a reference manual for style grading.
Zero Waste Fashion Design combines research and practice to introduce a crucial sustainable fashion design approach. Written by two industry leading pioneers, Timo Rissanen and Holly McQuillan, the book offers flexible strategies and easy-to-master zero waste techniques to help you develop your own cutting edge fashion designs. Sample flat patterns and more than 20 exercises will reinforce your understanding of the zero waste fashion design process. Beautifully illustrated interviews with high-profile, innovative designers, including Winifred Aldrich, Rickard Lindqvist and Yeohlee Teng, show the stunning garments produced by zero waste fashion design. Featured topics include: The criteria for zero waste fashion design Manufacturing zero waste garments Adapting existing designs for zero waste Zero waste designing with digital technologies
Metric Pattern Cutting for Women's Wear provides a straightforward introduction to the principles of form pattern cutting for garments to fit the body shape, and flat pattern cutting for casual garments and jersey wear. This sixth edition remains true to the original concept: it offers a range of good basic blocks, an introduction to the basic principles of pattern cutting and examples of their application into garments. Fully revised and updated to include a brand new and improved layout, up-to-date skirt and trouser blocks that reflect the changes in body sizing, along with updates to the computer-aided design section and certain blocks, illustrations and diagrams. This best-selling textbook still remains the essential purchase for students and beginners looking to understand pattern cutting and building confidence to develop their own pattern cutting style.
How to Make Sewing Patterns solves the mysteries of pattern drafting with easy, step-by-step instructions and clear line drawings that show how to create custom-fit garments in a wide range of designs. The book s detailed instructions on measuring and fitting include do-it-yourself photographs as well as directions for creating custom dress forms. Don McCunn has certainly mastered pattern drafting and fitting a wide range of bodies. Whether or not you have taken pattern drafting in a class, this book is a good reference in a very readable style. I especially liked the exacting instructions on taking measurements on the body and the solution for side seams which are not perpendicular to the floor. --Sandra Betzina, the power behind power sewing. Author of 10 books, a syndicated column for 37 years, and a host of her own show on HGTV for 6 years. Beyond the impressive range of material in How to Make Sewing Patterns is the author's obvious concern that readers understand what they are doing and why. There are many helpful tips throughout the book, some quite clever and unexpected. The section on drafting a sloper contains excellent explanations of the various body contours, measuring, and fitting. Text, drawings, and photos of the human body from every angle illustrate the various interrelated contours and just how a pattern accommodates them. He even gives detailed instructions on how to measure and fit yourself. --Threads Magazine McCunn's book dispels the mysteries of pattern drafting, an area which was once the province of the couturier. A do-it-yourself text in which lessons build upon one another, this book provides detailed guides to creating patterns. --Library Journal The most readable pattern drafting book I've found. The drawings are the simplest line drawings possible but executed with concise purpose. --Whole Earth Catalog Donald McCunn leads the beginning seamstress or the advanced into pattern drafting via a thorough introduction. He shows that drafting is easy if each step is clearly related to the final outcome and if the drafter visualizes what he or she is doing. --Christian Science Monitor"