The Cambridge Global History of Fashion: Volume 1
The Cambridge Global History of Fashion: Volume 1

Author: Christopher Breward

Publisher: Cambridge University Press

Published: 2023-07-31

Total Pages: 849

ISBN-13: 1108851487

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Volume I surveys the long history of fashion from the ancient world to c. 1800. The volume seeks to answer fundamental questions on the origins of fashion, challenging Eurocentric explanations that the emergence of fashion was a European phenomenon and shows instead that fashion found early expressions across the globe well before the age of European colonialism and imperialism. It sheds light on how fashion was experienced in a multitude of ways depending on class, gender, and race, and despite geographical distance, fashion connected populations across the globe. Fashions flowered and were reseeded, through entanglements of empire, forced and voluntary migration, evolving racial systems, burgeoning sea travel and transcontinental systems.

Clothing
Clothing

Author: Robert Ross

Publisher: Polity

Published: 2008-07-08

Total Pages: 230

ISBN-13: 0745631878

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In virtually all the countries of the world, men, and to a lesser extent women, are today dressed in very similar clothing. This book gives a compelling account and analysis of the process by which this has come about. At the same time it takes seriously those places where, for whatever reason, this process has not occurred, or has been reversed, and provides explanations for these developments. The first part of this story recounts how the cultural, political and economic power of Europe and, from the later nineteenth century North America, has provided an impetus for the adoption of whatever was at that time standard Western dress. Set against this, Robert Ross shows how the adoption of European style dress, or its rejection, has always been a political act, performed most frequently in order to claim equality with colonial masters, more often a male option, or to stress distinction from them, which women, perhaps under male duress, more frequently did. The book takes a refreshing global perspective to its subject, with all continents and many countries being discussed. It investigates not merely the symbolic and message-bearing aspects of clothing, but also practical matters of production and, equally importantly, distribution.

Clothing the Poor in Nineteenth-Century England
Clothing the Poor in Nineteenth-Century England

Author: Vivienne Richmond

Publisher: Cambridge University Press

Published: 2013-09-19

Total Pages: 359

ISBN-13: 1107042275

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A pioneering study of the importance of dress to the collective and individual identities of the nineteenth-century English poor.

Convicts and the Arts
Convicts and the Arts

Author: Professor Max Howell

Publisher: Palmer Higgs Pty Ltd

Published: 2013-11-01

Total Pages: 786

ISBN-13: 1925112578

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There are a considerable number of books on the art of the convicts, so Convicts & Art has been covered reasonably well but art is only once facet of the arts that has been examined to any extent. This book concerns itself with Convicts & the Arts. This book, then, endeavors to look at the convicts’ contribution to the arts, and demonstrates without doubt that the convicts made a significantly broader contribution to the culture of Australia than previously thought. There is a common misconception that all convicts were immediately institutionalised in a cell, and convict culture was solely a prison culture. It needs reinforcing that when the First Fleet arrived there were no prisons in Australia, no cells where they could put the convicts. The early governors and principal authorities quite logically endeavoured to use whatever skills the convicts had. So artists, generally forgers, were placed with those who were interested in recording a visual history of this new land. Among the convicts were bricklayers, house painters, jewelers, silversmiths, goldsmiths and so on, and some of them made significant contributions to the emerging society. Some of these contributions will be developed herein. This work endeavors to examine the convicts’ contribution to the arts in Australia, in areas like the writing of novels, poetry, autobiographies, sculpture, theatre, music, architecture, jewelry, the press, decorative arts and pottery.

Out of Line
Out of Line

Author: Margaret Maynard

Publisher: UNSW Press

Published: 2001

Total Pages: 220

ISBN-13: 9780868405155

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Shows how Australian women have created their own sense of national and regional identity through their dress and in so doing puts a new slant on the history of Australian women's fashion in the twentieth century. This book argues that Australian women's fashions may be superficially derivative, but that there are patterns of dress.

Fashion
Fashion

Author: Joanne Finkelstein

Publisher: NYU Press

Published: 1998-03

Total Pages: 136

ISBN-13: 0814726828

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With epigrams from Genesis to Oscar Wilde, Finkelstein examines the historical, social, psychological, and economic seams of haute couture fashion as reflected in the wide-ranging index entries: anthropology, Barbie doll, cinema, feminism, globalization, Lauren (Ralph), psychoanalysis, upward mobility, and zoot suits. Originally published by Melbourne U. Press, 1996. Annotation copyrighted by Book News, Inc., Portland, OR

The Hidden History of the Smock Frock
The Hidden History of the Smock Frock

Author: Alison Toplis

Publisher: Bloomsbury Publishing

Published: 2021-04-22

Total Pages: 223

ISBN-13: 1350126136

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Winner of the Association of Dress Historians Book of the Year Award, 2022 Traditionally associated with rural ways of life in England, often hand-crafted and held up as one of the only items of English folk dress to survive into the 20th century, the smock frock is an object of curiosity in many museum collections. Drawing on a wide variety of sources from surviving garments to newspapers and photographs, this book reveals the hidden history of the smock frock to present new social histories. Discussing the smock frock in its widest contexts, Alison Toplis explores how garments were handmade and manufactured by the ready-made clothing industry, and bought by men of different trades. She traces the smock frock's usage across England as well as in export markets such as Australia. Following the garment's decline in the late 19th century, the book investigates how this essentially utilitarian style of workwear came to be held up as an example of disappearing 'peasant' craft in an emotional response to urbanisation, and how it was preserved by collectors under the influence of the Arts and Crafts movement. Around the turn of the 20th century, the smock frock was reinvented as both women's and children's wear and is now regularly revived in fashion collections by the likes of Molly Goddard. Drawing together extensive visual and material cultures, Alison Toplis unravels a new history of the smock frock.

Fashion and Art
Fashion and Art

Author: Adam Geczy

Publisher: Berg

Published: 2013-08-15

Total Pages: 259

ISBN-13: 0857852140

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For at least two centuries, fashion and art have maintained a competitive love-hate relationship. Both fashion and art construct imaginary worlds, and use a language of style to invigorate beliefs, perceptions and ideas. Until now the crossovers of fashion and art have received only scattered treatment and suffered from a dearth of theorization. As an attempt to theorize the area, this collection of new and updated essays is the most well-rounded and authoritative to date. Some of the world's foremost scholars in the field are assembled here to explore the art-fashion nexus in numerous ways: from aesthetics and performance to masquerade and media. Original and inspiring, this book will not only secure 'art-fashion' as a discrete area of study, but also suggest new critical pathways for exploring their continuing cross-pollination. Fashion and Art is essential reading for students and scholars of fashion, art history and theory, cultural studies and related fields.

Dress Behind Bars
Dress Behind Bars

Author: Juliet Ash

Publisher: Bloomsbury Publishing

Published: 2009-11-30

Total Pages: 346

ISBN-13: 085773217X

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From nineteenth-century broad arrows and black and white stripes to twenty first-century orange jumpsuits, prison clothing has both mirrored and bolstered the power of penal institutions over prisoners' lives. Vividly illustrated and based on original research, including throughout the voices of the incarcerated, this book is a pioneering history and investigation of prison dress, which demystifies the experience of what it is like to be an imprisoned criminal. Juliet Ash takes the reader on a journey from the production of prison clothing to the bodies of its wearers. She uncovers a history characterized by waves of reform, sandwiched between regimes that use clothing as punishment and discovers how inmates use their dress to surmount, subvert or survive these punishment cultures. She reveals the hoods, the masks, and pink boxer shorts, near nakedness, even twenty first-century 'civvies' to be not just other types of uniform but political embodiments of the surveillance of everyday life.

Fashion
Fashion

Author: Jennifer Craik

Publisher: Bloomsbury Publishing

Published: 2024-07-25

Total Pages: 393

ISBN-13: 1350531774

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Fashion is everywhere. It is one of the main ways in which we present ourselves to others, signaling what we want to communicate about our sexuality, wealth, professionalism, subcultural and political allegiances, social status, even our mood. It is also a global industry with huge economic, political and cultural impact on the lives of all of us who make, sell, wear or even just watch fashion.Fashion: the key concepts presents a clear introduction to the complex world of fashion. The aim throughout is to present a comprehensive but also accessible and provocative analysis. Readers will discover how the fashion industry is structured and how it thinks, the links between catwalk, celebrity branding, media promotion and mainstream retail, how clothes mean different things in different parts of the world, and how popular culture influences fashion and how fashion shapes global culture.Illustrated with a wealth of photographs, the text is further enlivened with over 30 detailed and rich case studies - ranging across topics as diverse as the meaning of black in fashion, the rise of celebrity branding, the cult of thinness, the politics of veiling, the eroticism of shoes and the power of cosmetics.Features:§ Boxed chapter overviews open each chapter§ Bullet points summarizing key ideas conclude each chapter§ Chapter discussions are illustrated with integrated case material§ Each chapter is supported by extended Case Studies§ Key words are highlighted in chapters and defined in an extensive Glossary§ Further Reading guides the reader to other literature§ A timeline of Fashion Milestones provides a chronology of major events in the history of fashion