In Bradford Washburn: Mountain Photography, one hundred large-format mountain photographs, selected from more than 10,000 images, take the reader through Washburn's lifetime of accomplishments. Aerial images of high mountains, looking more like bold relief maps, are captured in extreme raking light. An in-depth Washburn interview by Antony Decaneas brings a voice to the life portrayed in images. Also included is an extensive, unique chronology of the major events in Washburn's life and career, illustrated with 40 additional images.
By the age of 20, Washburn was a mountain-climbing wunderkind who had published four books. Most would consider this accomplishment enough for a lifetime, but for Washburn it was only a beginning. Filled with exciting and entertaining anecdotes and with Washburn's breathtaking photos and maps, "On High" is the first book to reveal, in his own words, his extraordinary life and work.
In 1937, Mount Lucania was the highest unclimbed peak in North America. Located deep within the Saint Elias mountain range, which straddles the border of Alaska and the Yukon, and surrounded by glacial peaks, Lucania was all but inaccessible. The leader of one failed expedition deemed it "impregnable." But in that year, a pair of daring young climbers would attempt a first ascent, not knowing that their quest would turn into a perilous struggle for survival. Escape from Lucania is their remarkable story. Classmates and fellow members of the Harvard Mountaineering Club, Brad Washburn and Bob Bates were two talented young men -- handsome, intelligent, and filled with a zest for exploring. Both were ambitious climbers, part of a small group whose first ascents in the great mountain ranges during the 1930s and 1940s changed the face of American mountaineering. Setting their sights on summitting Lucania in the summer of 1937, Washburn and Bates put together a team of four climbers for the expedition. But when Bates and Washburn flew to the Walsh Glacier at the foot of Lucania, they discovered that freakish weather conditions had turned the ice to slush. Their pilot was barely able to take off again alone, and there was no question of returning with the other two climbers or more supplies. Washburn and Bates found themselves marooned on the glacier, more than a hundred miles from help, in forbidding and desolate territory. Eschewing a trek out to the nearest mining town -- eighty miles away by air -- they decided to press ahead with their expedition. Escape from Lucania recounts Washburn and Bates's determined drive toward Lucania's 17,150-foot summit under constant threat of avalanches, blinding snowstorms, and hidden crevasses. Against awesome odds they became the first to set foot on Lucania's peak, not realizing that their greatest challenge still lay beyond. Nearly a month after being stranded on the glacier and with their supplies running dangerously low, they would have to navigate their way out through uncharted Yukon territory, racing against time as the summer warmth caused rivers to swell and flood to unfordable depths. But even as their situation grew more and more desperate, they refused to give up. Escape from Lucania tells this amazing story in thrilling and vivid detail, from the climbers' exultation at reaching the summit to their darkest moments confronting seemingly insurmountable obstacles. It is a tale of awesome adventure and harrowing danger. But above all it is the story of two men of extraordinary spirit, inspiring comradeship, and great courage. Today Washburn and Bates, now in their nineties, are legends in climbing circles. Bates co-led 1938 and 1953 expeditions to K2, the world's second-highest mountain. Washburn, whose record of Alaskan first ascents is unmatched, became founding director of Boston's Museum of Science and is one of the premier mountain photographers in the world. Some of his remarkable images from the 1937 Lucania expedition are included in this book.
Mount McKinley, the highest peak in North America, was first climbed in 1913 by its northern Muldrow Glacier route. Yet, for almost 40 years, no one had climbed the mountain via its southern slopes. By 1951, however, one man knew more about McKinleys geography than anyone else. His knowledge of potential new routes, used in conjunction with the newly developed, ski-equipped airplane, would completely change how future climbers would approach this great peak. Brad Washburns personal account of the first ascent of McKinleys West Buttress allows the reader to share in this historic expedition. Written over 50 years ago, his logbook still holds the excitement and wonder of each unfolding day. Washburns pioneering work on the West Buttress opened up what is now, for over 1000 climbers each year, the most popular route on Mount McKinley. This is one of 300 limited edition, signed and numbered, hardcovers.
Winner of the National Outdoor Book Award Grand Prize Winner, Banff Mountain Book Festival "Forever on the Mountain grips even non-climbers with its harrowing scenes of thorny relationships tested by extraordinary circumstances." —Washington Post In 1967, seven young men, members of a twelve-man expedition led by twenty-four-year-old Joe Wilcox, were stranded at 20,000 feet on Alaska’s Mount McKinley in a vicious Arctic storm. Ten days passed while the storm raged, yet no rescue was mounted. All seven perished in what remains the most tragic expedition in American climbing history. Revisiting the event in the tradition of Norman Maclean’s Young Men and Fire, James M. Tabor uncovers elements of controversy, finger-pointing, and cover-up that make this disaster unlike any other.
* The only available guide devoted solely to the route used by 90 percent of all climbers who summit Denali * Historic aerial photos and introduction by one of the route's pioneers -- Bradford Washburn * Author Colby Coombs is a Denali climbing guide and a 12-year veteran of the route Denali's massive West Buttress Route is one of the world's most popular -- and treacherous -- climbs. Seasoned guide Colby Coombs and legendary mountaineering photographer Bradford Washburn teamed up to provide climbers with information devoted solely to this challenging route. Denali's West Buttress: A Climber's Guide gives the aspiring Denali climber the details required to efficiently plan and safely launch an expedition on the West Buttress. The climbing guidebook covers every aspect of climbing the route -- from preparation to climbing strategy to step-by-step route instruction. Washburn's magnificent photos -- with route and milestones clearly delineated -- paired with Coombs' explicit text guide the climber from camp to camp to the summit and down again, outlining specific hazards and obstacles and offering techniques and instruction on how best to surmount them. The book pays special attention to environmental considerations and presents low-impact methods for minimizing human and garbage waste on the route. This guide provides complete, detailed, first-hand, safety-conscious information on the West Buttress Route, serving as a much-needed resource and a grand tribute to this historic climb.
Barbara Washburn never set out to become a mountain pioneer, but she wasn't content to be a stay-at-home wife either. After marrying explorer Bradford Washburn in 1940, Barbara's fearless determination to be with her husband resulted in her historic ventures into the uncharted mountains of Alaska. With no mountain climbing experience she only knew that as a woman in a party of men, she'd have to measure up. She did. She became a history maker & a role model for women. Her most famous achievement was her 1947 ascent of Mount McKinley & this was just the beginning. Barbara was an award-winning teacher--one of the first in remedial reading. She was a devoted mother of three who faced criticism for defying convention by leaving her children with family to travel to remote Alaska. And in the decades that followed she helped map the Grand Canyon, took a safari in Kenya & made many trips to China & Nepal in an effort to gain permission for the first arial mapping of Mount Everest. Her accomplishments, amazing by today's standard, were virtually unheard in the 40s & 50s & earn her an important place in the history of woman & exploration.
High Alaska is a unique blend of mountaineering history and practical guidebook. With extensive coverage of the routes of Denali, Mount Foraker, and Mount Hunter, this comprehensive volume also includes historic, scenic, and route photographs-the latter by the esteemed mountain photographer Bradford Washburn.
Here at last is the thrilling memoir of the legendary mountaineer Bradford Washburn, one of the last surviving explorers and adventurers of the twentieth century. Drawing from decades of memories, journals, and an exquisite photographic collection, Washburn completes the self-portrait of a man drawn to altitude, from his first great climb of Mount Washington at age eleven, through numerous first ascents of peaks all over the world, to handily scaling a climbing wall at eighty-eight.
